Broadhead tune or sight in first?

[Clawsar]

I am getting my bow tuned in again, as well as setting up my 3 pin slider (ascent verdict). I’m assuming that I should get my bow as dialed in (Broadhead to field point) first, and then worry about the sight tape.

I never realized my previous sights and bows I always got paper tuned with field points then shot a lot and got my sight set. Then as I tweaked later in the summer to get Broadhead on top of field points I’d adjust my sight again.

Hopefully I’m doing this in the right order now. Still have Broadheads slightly right of FP but getting closer...

 

[Dsnow9]

I’m newer to the archery game but I picked up a “paper tune-it” from Lancaster archery for about ten dollars. That allows me to double check if I switch anything up.

 

[targetpanic]

Tune first, sight in after

 

[Jmnhunter]

not to hijack this but, my broadheads and tips are shooting together under 30 yds but i'm practicing at 40 right now and noticed my fixed blades are shooting low 6" and to the left 6" from my field points, from what I understand, I need to adjust my rest to the right for the horizontal correction but how about my knocking point?

 

[JLS]

not to hijack this but, my broadheads and tips are shooting together under 30 yds but i'm practicing at 40 right now and noticed my fixed blades are shooting low 6" and to the left 6" from my field points, from what I understand, I need to adjust my rest to the right for the horizontal correction but how about my knocking point?

Move your rest up or your nock down.

 

[JLS]

Tune first, sight in after

This.

 

[JohnCushman]

Tune first. This will show little issues such as cam lean or bad form or improper nock level and stuff like that. You want your bow proper before you start trying to tune with broadheads or the little issues will be exaggerated.

 

[Clawsar]

not to hijack this but, my broadheads and tips are shooting together under 30 yds but i'm practicing at 40 right now and noticed my fixed blades are shooting low 6" and to the left 6" from my field points, from what I understand, I need to adjust my rest to the right for the horizontal correction but how about my knocking point?

I’d move my rest first and see if that brings the arrows up as well. I had a similar tweak and the left to right fixed the up and down as well.
I did walk back tuning to 70 yards and then have my broadbeads right with the field points to 50 yards (as far as I’ve tried with broad heads so far). I do. Price that I occasionally torque my bow and the FP stay good but my BH shirt right by a couple inches at those distances.
Counting down the days.

 

[NullPointerException]

Someone once told me that sighting in is a continuous process on a bow. Things are always stretching and changing. It's not like a rifle.

My routine consists of paper tuning (replacing strings as necessary) and sighting in with field points in early spring. This gets me ready to shoot 3-D at public ranges where shooting a broadhead would mean getting banned.

I'll re-check the tune in mid June. I haven't ever done a bareshaft tune, but for next year I'll probably do one at this time just to reduce the chances of any broadhead issues later on. If anything changed, I'll re-sight my bow. I might make a trip to the range just to make sure my pins are where I want them to be at this time as well.

In early August I'll start broadhead tuning. I'm lucky in that I have a broadhead that's worked for me in the past and I haven't yet needed make any rest adjustments as long as the bow is well tuned. It also helps that I shoot a pretty heavy arrow at lower speeds. If I did have to move my rest or my tune was off, I would re-sight at this time.

This is by far not the only way to do things, and I'm wondering if anyone has any feedback on what I can do better. That said, this has worked for me and meant I have more time to practice my form and scout versus messing with my equipment.

 

[golfer]

not to hijack this but, my broadheads and tips are shooting together under 30 yds but i'm practicing at 40 right now and noticed my fixed blades are shooting low 6" and to the left 6" from my field points, from what I understand, I need to adjust my rest to the right for the horizontal correction but how about my knocking point?

move rest to left to fix blades hitting left of your fp. People get confused and read the easton tuning guide which is for finger shooters and not compounds with release aide. Inside out precision address is it in following video.

 

[golfer]

I am getting my bow tuned in again, as well as setting up my 3 pin slider (ascent verdict). I’m assuming that I should get my bow as dialed in (Broadhead to field point) first, and then worry about the sight tape.

I never realized my previous sights and bows I always got paper tuned with field points then shot a lot and got my sight set. Then as I tweaked later in the summer to get Broadhead on top of field points I’d adjust my sight again.

Hopefully I’m doing this in the right order now. Still have Broadheads slightly right of FP but getting closer...

Remember paper tuning is only the starting point. Just because you shoot a bullet hole with fp doesn’t mean your bh will shoot with field points.
I’ve always sighted my pins in made a sight tape and the. Tuned my bh and field points to hit together and the original sight tape is darn close for bh too.

 

[Guest member 25165]

I've never had to tune my broadheads differently than my field points. One of the things that I do believe in is having multiple people paper tune the bow at the same time. I have the archery pro shop owner and have myself shoot it through paper and compare holes. If your form is for crap, paper tuning might not be giving you the whole story. Good tuning not only involves squaring the nocking point but also adding or subtracting twists in your string/cables.

 

[RyanSoNorCal]

I gave bare shaft tuning a try and I’m happy I did. If your mechanics are in tune and you can get a bare shaft to fly straight at 10 yards then the broad head adjustment should be minor.