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Barrel Thread advice

CoHunter1991

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Jan 18, 2021
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I recently just got a can and am in the process of pulling off my breaks. I have a tikka t3x 3006 that 3 years ago I had threaded to accept a Sako slim muzzle break. The shop did an amazing job and the break to barrel joint was seamless. Now I am pulling off the break for the first time and I have noticed the threads were not cut all the way back to the barrel well, they just kind of shallow then stop. It is threaded M15-1 so I’m worried that when I tighten my adaptor the shallowing threads will mess up my alignment and may cause a baffle strike. What are all your thoughts on what I should do?IMG_3262.jpegIMG_3263.jpegIMG_3264.jpeg
 
It is on a Tikka T3X Hunting rifle in 30-06 and Sako breaks are threaded M15-1. I thought about a washer or spacer I just don't want it to look like trash and mess up alignment.
 
The suppressor does not bottom out so I am safe there. My concern was with the gap (I did not know that was common, I thought the adaptor should be tight against the barrel wall) and since the threads shallow would that effect the alignment of the adaptor and can.
 
The suppressor does not bottom out so I am safe there. My concern was with the gap (I did not know that was common, I thought the adaptor should be tight against the barrel wall) and since the threads shallow would that effect the alignment of the adaptor and can.
So the suppressor doesn't sit completely flush against the barrel at all when you spin it on?

That could be a problem. I'll let someone with more knowledge add an explanation but it should shoulder against the barrel and torque down a bit.
 
the adapter should thread tight against the barrel shoulder. Most suppressor adapters these days have a small counterbore to account for the lack of a relief cut on the barrel threads. It'll be easier to correct the adapter than it will be to correct the barrel.

Here is an example of what your adapter threads need to look like. 20230619_185934.jpg
 
So the suppressor doesn't sit completely flush against the barrel at all when you spin it on?

That could be a problem. I'll let someone with more knowledge add an explanation but it should shoulder against the barrel and torque down a bit.
The suppressor does sit flush against the adaptor but the adaptor does not sit on the shoulder.
 
the adapter should thread tight against the barrel shoulder. Most suppressor adapters these days have a small counterbore to account for the lack of a relief cut on the barrel threads. It'll be easier to correct the adapter than it will be to correct the barrel.

Here is an example of what your adapter threads need to look like. View attachment 328518
That makes alot of sense. Do you know where I can get adaptors that have more more counterbore room? I got my adaptor from Hughes precision and it looks to have very little. I may email him also.
 
That makes alot of sense. Do you know where I can get adaptors that have more more counterbore room? I got my adaptor from Hughes precision and it looks to have very little. I may email him also.
I'd talk to Hughes and see if he can cut one with more counterbore. If not, you can mail it to me and I'll take care of it.

One more thing to check is the thread tenon length compared to the depth of the adaptor.
 
I'd talk to Hughes and see if he can cut one with more counterbore. If not, you can mail it to me and I'll take care of it.

One more thing to check is the thread tenon length compared to the depth of the adaptor.
Awesome, ill reach out to Hughes this morning. Sorry for the ignorance, what is thread Tenon?
 
Just as an FYI, the shoulder your adapter is going to index against looks significantly smaller than the 0.100” many recommend as a minimum. I know lots of people have less and do OK, just wanted to point it out.
 
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