No better words spoken
Are butter-smooth actions overrated?
- Thread starter Richard22
- Start date
Justabirdwatcher
Well-known member
Yes.
44hunter45
Well-known member
I started to comment on an Outdoor Life video demonstrating the "right way" to work a bolt. Then I remembered that I don't give two farts what a von Benedikt says.
Maybe that crappy bolt technique is why he needed to steal a buck from a little girl.
My OPINION on bolts is that if you cannot lift the bolt handle with the heel of your hand (Or better, your pinky) and pull it back to the stop, then rotate your hand and close it with your thumb. All in a smooth motion - It needs work. When testing this you will need to dry fire, so all safety practices are required. Verify the chamber (AND MAGAZINE) are clear, keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.
Both my "raspy" Ruger M77 rifle's bolts were slicked up with Arm and Hammer toothpaste and a lot of strokes. Phase one is to remove the trigger and sear. Disassemble the bolt and cocking piece. Put the toothpaste on the shroud threads. Sit there and turn it in and out while you watch FT+. Phase two is to reassemble the striker assembly. Put the compound on the striker/ bolt cam interface and work the bolt until the lift smooths up. Phase three is put the toothpaste on the rails and work the bolt in and out. DO NOT put it on the lugs and DO NOT close the bolt. (You do not want to muck up the headspace.) Phase four is sell the rifle and buy a Model 70. (Just Kidding!)
The Chrome-moly Ruger is still way smoother than the stainless steel one. On my blued 30-06 the last step was to blue the claw extractor. Now I am suddenly thinking I may need @p_ham to jewel that one.
I do not own one, but the smoothest bolt I ever felt was on a US Army Krag.
Maybe that crappy bolt technique is why he needed to steal a buck from a little girl.
My OPINION on bolts is that if you cannot lift the bolt handle with the heel of your hand (Or better, your pinky) and pull it back to the stop, then rotate your hand and close it with your thumb. All in a smooth motion - It needs work. When testing this you will need to dry fire, so all safety practices are required. Verify the chamber (AND MAGAZINE) are clear, keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.
Both my "raspy" Ruger M77 rifle's bolts were slicked up with Arm and Hammer toothpaste and a lot of strokes. Phase one is to remove the trigger and sear. Disassemble the bolt and cocking piece. Put the toothpaste on the shroud threads. Sit there and turn it in and out while you watch FT+. Phase two is to reassemble the striker assembly. Put the compound on the striker/ bolt cam interface and work the bolt until the lift smooths up. Phase three is put the toothpaste on the rails and work the bolt in and out. DO NOT put it on the lugs and DO NOT close the bolt. (You do not want to muck up the headspace.) Phase four is sell the rifle and buy a Model 70. (Just Kidding!)
The Chrome-moly Ruger is still way smoother than the stainless steel one. On my blued 30-06 the last step was to blue the claw extractor. Now I am suddenly thinking I may need @p_ham to jewel that one.
I do not own one, but the smoothest bolt I ever felt was on a US Army Krag.
Last edited:
Forkyfinder
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2023
- Messages
- 3,088
Have a sako, bergera, and savages. Never had an issue being fast enough with the rough savage bolt. Never done competition like @Doublecluck but i can see benefits there.
Ultimately my sako just feels higher workmanship/craftsmanship - and i appreciate that even though it doesnt improve much for any typical use. All of them shoot well if i do my job.
Ultimately my sako just feels higher workmanship/craftsmanship - and i appreciate that even though it doesnt improve much for any typical use. All of them shoot well if i do my job.
noharleyyet
Well-known member
The roughest action I've cycled is a Rem 700 300WSM...no problems with any of my 700 LA's. Never operated a Sako that wasn't silky...including a 270WSM
elevatorman
Active member
No not overated. My rem 700 is very smooth. My Tikka is too. Not necessary per se, but it is noticed and nice to have. Makes using the gun enjoyable. But then again, I like performance center revolvers. Maybe I'm just a gun snob
I think it depends on if you tacti-cool bolt actions, or rapid fire bolt actions, or not. For hunting, I don't most people cycle the bolt very many times on a hunt.
Reliability is important, but being smooth won't hurt anything either. If lack of smoothness bothers you, buy one that makes you happy.
Reliability is important, but being smooth won't hurt anything either. If lack of smoothness bothers you, buy one that makes you happy.
MS 9x56
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2022
- Messages
- 246
Until you own a Mannlicher Schoenauer rifle you will never really know.
BrentD
Well-known member
Well, there is the '98 Krag, but frankly no bolt is "butter smooth" after you have owned a high quality falling block. Both Winchesters and Sharps leave all the bolts in the dust.
elevatorman
Active member
I think by smooth they mean the pushing it forward or pulling it back. Not turning the bolt closed
belshawelk
Well-known member
Only until you really find one that is.
I thought my Rem 700 SPS was smooth.
Then I bought a Weatherby, Browning, Tikka's
All until I bought my
Nosler 48 Custom. Nothing even close.
I thought my Rem 700 SPS was smooth.
Then I bought a Weatherby, Browning, Tikka's
All until I bought my
Nosler 48 Custom. Nothing even close.
longbow51
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2023
- Messages
- 1,137
Our Dakota Varminters are really smooth, Nesika actions I think. Sakos are still pretty smooth. The Model 70 Paul rebuilt for me was very nice as well, about the same as Dakota.
I remember fondling a Colt Sauer back in the day when a Ruger M77 was a stretch financially at the time. In another league.
I remember fondling a Colt Sauer back in the day when a Ruger M77 was a stretch financially at the time. In another league.
