6.5 prc Tikka build

[Jasher]

I bought a used Tikka t3x stainless in 300 win mag. I already have one but the deal was to good to pass up. So, I decided to do something with it. After doing some research I found that a person with a few tools can do it themselves with a Tikka and not have to use an ugly barrel nut. As of right now I haven't received all the parts I'm changing and I haven't had time to do the work. I just thought I'd share what I have purchased with pictures of where I am right now.

1st picture is how much the gun weights from the factory.
2nd picture is of the gun out of the factory stock
3rd picture is of the new grs bifrost stock (last one in stock anywhere)
4th picture is of the proof carbon fiber barrel, 26' 1-7.5
5th picture is VG6 epsilon muzzle brake with flash suppressor
6th picture is bubble level from Patriot precision

Still waiting for nightforce 20 moa rail, leapers rings, Leupold vx5 3-15, mountain tactical la bottom metal.

 

[SticksMcKinley]

Nice - looking forward to seeing the finished project. Good luck with it!

 

[YoungGun]

Let us know how the barrel install goes! My dad and I were both talking about our Tikkas the other day, and he commented he'll be bummed after he "shoots it out", which is still years away. I mentioned to him that PROOF makes Tikka Drop in barrels, but I wasn't able to answer just how easy, or not, they are to swap with the factory barrel. I'll be following along.

 

[WVgoodguy22]

I would like to one day be able to do a project like this. I have a .270 Win and a .300 WSM so my pronghorn to moose are covered, but trying a 6.5 PRC and building a target rifle or a HMR (Hunting Match Rifle) combo rifle would be interesting indeed.
Probably going to load up some of those Berger 156 grain Elite Hunters or something heavy for caliber using that 1:7 twist rate barrel? I am assuming. Definitely looking forward to seeing how it works out for you.

 

[RunWilderness]

Looks good. definitely interested to see the process and the finished product.

Any mag length concerns with 6.5 PRC in a Tikka?

Once or twice a year I get a bug to buy a shouldered barrel or Switchlug setup and play around with one of the Sherman wildcats, but I can never quite pull the trigger in the end.

 

[PNWGator]

Should have no constraints out of the 300 WM mags.

i am constrained in my Tikka 6.5 PRC as I chose to run AICS binderless detachable mags and am limited to 2.95. I had the gun throated accordingly and can shoot 153 Atip and 156 Berger’s. When I do it again, I won’t paint myself into the same corner.

 

[Jasher]

Well just to try a few things out I mounted the action with the 300 barrel still on it. I have some empty 6.5 prc brass just to see how it would feed. I hope it works better with loaded bullets. With the factory magazine the cases nose dived right before they should go up into the chamber. I have a 308 also and tried in that magazine. Looks like that might work. The end of the brass did catch the magazine but I think with an actual bullet it should push over that.

 

[Jasher]

I will check with the other mags. Maybe the springs will be stronger in them to hold the bullets up long enough to feed.

 

[Jasher]

Let us know how the barrel install goes! My dad and I were both talking about our Tikkas the other day, and he commented he'll be bummed after he "shoots it out", which is still years away. I mentioned to him that PROOF makes Tikka Drop in barrels, but I wasn't able to answer just how easy, or not, they are to swap with the factory barrel. I'll be following along.

I'm expecting it to be a real pain to get the factory one off. Hopefully I can try tomorrow. My wife has my day full of her stuff today.

 

[1_pointer]

These magazines might be worth a look. Designed for the WSM/SAUM/PRC type rounds.

Tikka T3X/T3 Billet Magazines | Hells Canyon Armory

www.hellscanyonarmory.com

 

[Jasher]

These magazines might be worth a look. Designed for the WSM/SAUM/PRC type rounds.

Tikka T3X/T3 Billet Magazines | Hells Canyon Armory

www.hellscanyonarmory.com

Those work with the factory Tikka bottom metal. I'm trying to get away from that.

 

[Jasher]

So barrel removal is definitely not for the faint of heart. I tried every trick in the book to take it off saving the old barrel. Since I already have a 300 win mag I took a hacksaw and did a relief cut all the way around about 100-200 thousands deep as close to the action as possible. Then just clamped the barrel directly into a bench vise as close to the action as possible muzzle pointed to the floor. Stuck the Tikka action wrench in the action put the impact on it and presto right off. My suggestion is if you are to take the barrel off to have it threaded just buy a different barrel.

 

[VikingsGuy]

So barrel removal is definitely not for the faint of heart. I tried every trick in the book to take it off saving the old barrel. Since I already have a 300 win mag I took a hacksaw and did a relief cut all the way around about 100-200 thousands deep as close to the action as possible. Then just clamped the barrel directly into a bench vise as close to the action as possible muzzle pointed to the floor. Stuck the Tikka action wrench in the action put the impact on it and presto right off. My suggestion is if you are to take the barrel off to have it threaded just buy a different barrel.

No damage to the action with all that torque? Did you try heat? Was it just mechanical tightness or did tikka factory use some type of thread lock/rock set thing?

 

[Jasher]

No damage to the action with all that torque? Did you try heat? Was it just mechanical tightness or did tikka factory use some type of thread lock/rock set thing?

No damage to the action. I tried heat. It's compression tight. The relief cut let's the tension from the action being compressed into the barrel off. When you torque the action to the barrel you are like wow that's it after fighting to get the old one off.

 

[Jasher]

No damage to the action with all that torque? Did you try heat? Was it just mechanical tightness or did tikka factory use some type of thread lock/rock set thing?

After further review this is what I have found. There's definitely something on the treads. I'm not sure what it is. It wipes clean with a rag. The threads at the end are also messed up a bit.

 

[Jasher]

This is it so far. I haven't torqued anything down except the barrel and muzzle brake. Bolt still cycles as smooth as it did before. Right now it is a little forward heavy but I think when I get the scope on it should level out.

 

[YoungGun]

So the PROOF barrel drops in pretty easily once the factory barrel is removed? Any spacing measurements needed? Or can you just tighten it down to the action.

 

[Jasher]

So the PROOF barrel drops in pretty easily once the factory barrel is removed? Any spacing measurements needed? Or can you just tighten it down to the action.

The stock isn't the factory stock. The carbon barrel won't just drop right in a factory stock. The only prefit 6.5 prc that they offer is the carbon fiber sendero profile. They do offer a lot of others in different profiles just not the 6.5 prc.

 

[Jasher]

So the PROOF barrel drops in pretty easily once the factory barrel is removed? Any spacing measurements needed? Or can you just tighten it down to the action.

Sorry, I miss read your post. Yes, once you get the old barrel of its as simple as it can be. Just need the action wrench. Torque wrench and torque to 55 foot pounds. Once I got the old barrel off took about 15 minutes to put it completely back together as it looks in the pictures.

 

[Jasher]

A picture of the action wrench and more pictures of the gun