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Which Rifle???

SagebrushSlayer

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Joined
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Wyoming
I have been debating (not masterfully) on which gun to buy. I already know which caliber I will shoot(270 wsm). The rifles I am looking at, but not limited too are:
Browning A or X bolt
Weatherby Vanguard Sub-MOA
Tikka T3 LIte
Savage Weather Warroir

Now with the limited time I have had off (MS in Nov-went to Gander Mtn) I shouldered the following brands(only the T3 was in stock) Tikka, Savage, and Weatherby. I don't remember all the models, but I liked the action of the T3 the best.

I have a 25-06 that I will be handing down to my daughter soon, thus "allowing" me to have the need for another gun. I have a friend who talks up Weatherby, like he owns stock! Being stuck in the Desert, I have decided I would like to hear from some hunttalkers. I plan on heading to the nearest outdoor retailer, in just over a month. I know it sounds early, but I don't want to have to deal with buying/finding one, when I get back ~September.

BTW I have a good idea of which scope I plan on getting. Leupold VX-III CDS, will ask my ???'s in the Optics forum. Thanks
 
I'm a Remington man at heart, Sage, but I do own some Browning & Winchester and have come close to picking up a Tikka a few times.

There isn't a "bad" choice to be made among your selection. It really comes down to your personal choice, and of course the main criteria in both caliber and rifle should actually be what you intend to do with them.

I'm going to the WSMR in New Mexico come February where I will hunt for Oryx on a once-in-a-lifetime lottery tag. It is a short 2 day hunt and the quarry is possibly the toughest game animal I will ever encounter. The terrain is relatively flat and the possibility of a long shot is likely. Therefore, I have chosen to go with my 300RUM for the energy it provides to anchor the tough animal even at extreme distances. The rifle used will be either a Remington Model 700 LSS or Sendero SF. They are the heaviest rifles I have, but on flat terrain/long shots will be an asset rather than a liability.
When I prepare to hit the serious mountains for elk or mulies however, I will instead go with my Browning Mountain Ti 300WSM lightweight or Rem 700 Sporterweight in 7MM Mag.

The reason that I include 2 rifles is that I tend to never travel without a backup rifle/muzzleloader/bow with me. The real point is that some rifles/calibers do different things better than others. But, a lot of rifles/calibers are good enough to do a heck of a lot of things well, and you already have a good start with the 270WSM, as it puts big push to that streamlined bullet. I personally choose the .284 to 30 cal range of bullets for my big game hunting, but the numbers posted by the 270WSM can't be ignored, and I wouldn't be afraid to tackle anything on this continent with it. Team it up with whichever of those rifles that feel best to you, choose an accurate load and learn it well, and you can do pretty much what you want with it.

Oh yeah, when you find that combination that works for you, don't worry about trying to collect TOO many rifles like some of us do. "Beware the man who carries one gun, as he probably knows how to use it."

Good Luck,
Jeff

PS Are you a Mississippi resident? It sounds like you may have been shopping for rifles in Hattiesburg.
 
All fine rifles. I'm not a fan of Browning as an A bolt was the only rifle I've never been able to get to shoot under 1/2 inch. The Tikka is undoubtedly the best buy for the buck. You won't find one more serviceable. What do you have to say about Weatherby? Great rifles.. with a wonderful trigger. My favorite, Sako. I would suggest you try the fit of each of them and pick the one that fits you the best.
 
Those are all good choices. You will kill anything with the setup you are considering.

If there is one thing I would add, it would be to get your trigger adjusted by a pro. Heavy triggers are the biggest reason I see for guys having a hard time being accurate. For $50-$75, a professional gunsmith will set your trigger to a better setting.

Mine are all set at 2.75#. Many guest hunters end up using my rifles for the show, due to sponsorship issues. The most common reply I get from them is, "Wow, that is a great trigger setting."

Not sure what the manufactures set the triggers at when they come from the factory, but they are long and heavy triggers. You may already have that in your plans, but thought I would mention it.
 
I would recomend the weatherby because they come with a shot target to prove accuracy and have adjustable triggers. LIke Big Fin says get it adjusted. Trigger pull is a big factor in accurate shooting. Savage makes the accutrigger, which is nice, but I would think you can get some aftermarket triggers on all the others.
 
I don't think there is a "bad " rifle in your line up. Were I in your position I would handle as many as possible and the right one would speak to me.

I have a Howa(who make the Weatherby Vanguard series) and I am glad I won the rifle because I would have over looked them otherwise. I had trigger work done and it improved it. a Timney might even be better....

After you have your hands on all of them you will know what feels right. Particularly an intuitive safety position, and getting a good solid cheek weld on the stock.
 
I currently have all the above in various calibers, except for the Browning...just never cared for the A-bolt. :eek: They all shoot well. When I reach into the safe and pull something out for javelina to elk, it is usually one of my Tikkas, either in .243 or in .300 Win. They both shoot extremely well and I have not had to do a thing to either of them (except for putting a Limbsaver pad on the .300.) The triggers were great, right out of the box.

My Vanguard is a .257 Wthby Sub-MOA. I had to do some trigger work on it and I ended up putting it into a MacMIllan Edge stock. It gets the nod for deer and antelope when the shots will be really long.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses. I definitely like hearing other hunters opinions on these things, cause I am mainly surrounded by handgun gearheads. Sorry if It takes me awhile to respond, cause my day is your (US) night.

jeff- I'm not a MS resident, but did go into hattiesburg while I was training in Camp Shelby. I'm an Idaho resident, although technically being on orders I could choose which state I would like to claim. Thanks for the input, I had thought about going bigger than a .27 cal, but don't really see myself taking any other game, except what the west has to offer. Things could change down the road.

Big Fin- Thanks for the heads up on the trigger adjusting. I will have to get some of the other Treasure Valley residents to recommend some gunsmiths. The one's I know of, I have been told to stay away from. I think I will also get my 25-06 adj. and given a once over, cause the barrel bluing has been depleting.

Sweetnectar- I will hold a couple more Weatherby's when I get back, but the Vanguard I held, felt unnatural in its boxy design. My Weatherby friend said he has two different guns and they both feel different. I really would like a Weatherby, but Mark V money just isn't in my budget.

I like the way a Tikka feels and its action, so its at the top of my list. Hopefully when I take the wife out rifle shopping, I can get her to try out which guns she likes. Her plan is to take hunters ed with my daughter this next spring, since I'm gone, which will earn her a rifle of her liking. :D
 
Getting a safety that feels comfortable will take some getting use to, cause my hands are on auto pilot with the M4 I have been carrying around. Cheek weld will definitely play a role, along with the action. Too me some of the actions I felt, at Gander Mtn, were sloppy. There were quite a few used guns mixed with the new ones, but even some of the new ones felt like there was to much play.

Calif Hunter- I have a couple questions about your Weatherby stock. Was the orginal sub moa stock designed like a plain jane vanguard? Why did you switch to an aftermarket stock?
 
Those are all good choices. You will kill anything with the setup you are considering.

If there is one thing I would add, it would be to get your trigger adjusted by a pro. Heavy triggers are the biggest reason I see for guys having a hard time being accurate. For $50-$75, a professional gunsmith will set your trigger to a better setting.

Mine are all set at 2.75#. Many guest hunters end up using my rifles for the show, due to sponsorship issues. The most common reply I get from them is, "Wow, that is a great trigger setting."

Not sure what the manufactures set the triggers at when they come from the factory, but they are long and heavy triggers. You may already have that in your plans, but thought I would mention it.
4

+1 on that from a clueless rifle guy. Had mine set to 2.75 this summer. One was at 3.5 and the other a whopping 6.75 before getting them worked on. made a big difference at the range, and I presume in the field.
 
I just wanted a lighter stock. The Sub-MOA comes with a Bell & Carlson stock, which is a step up from the more tupperware-like standard synthetic stock (which I think is a Butler Creek stock) that copmes with the regular Vanguard synthetic.
 
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I had a hard time warming up to the Tikka. Just something about that plastic stock. Ugh! I did buy one for coyote hunting finally due to the weight and i'm here to tell you that thing is awesome!!!!! Accurate and super light not to mention the bolt is just so slick. I own about a dozen rifles and even though this is nowhere near my "nicest" rifle it is definately one of my favorites I highly recomend it.
 
I just wanted a lighter stock. The Sub-MOA comes with a Bell & Carlson stock, which is a step up from the more tupperware-like standard synthetic stock (which I think is a Butler Creek stock) that copmes with the regular Vanguard synthetic.


How is it a step up other than in $$$? Did you really see any difference in accuacy?

I have a couple tupperware wearing rifles that shoot sub 1/2" groups. Just wondering if the upgrade would be worth it?
 
How is it a step up other than in $$$? Did you really see any difference in accuacy?

I have a couple tupperware wearing rifles that shoot sub 1/2" groups. Just wondering if the upgrade would be worth it?

Ivan, Wby's hi dolla MK V Lightweight also wears a Bell & Carlson...Bell & Carlson® composite stock with spiderweb accents


Vanguard's Sob MOA stock description: Pillar-bedded Fiberguard™ composite stock with Monte Carlo, raised cheekpiece and non-slip black spiderwebbing

*stock descriptions from Wby's site
 
I dont think you would be dissapointed with any of the choices you have.I have had the tikas,a weatherby but it was a mark 5, never tried a browning.I currently shoot a savage 111fcns.Unlike the tika it has a metal clip and is the best shooting rifle I have ever owned.It will shoot just about every factory load at an inch or better.The barrel finish is much better than anything else I have owned and cleans up much easier. The tikas I owned did shoot good though I cant complain about that but the first one I bought had to be re floated as they didnt float it right the first time and the second one I bought would not eject the shells both were brand new guns.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calif. Hunter
I just wanted a lighter stock. The Sub-MOA comes with a Bell & Carlson stock, which is a step up from the more tupperware-like standard synthetic stock (which I think is a Butler Creek stock) that copmes with the regular Vanguard synthetic.


How is it a step up other than in $$$? Did you really see any difference in accuacy?

I have a couple tupperware wearing rifles that shoot sub 1/2" groups. Just wondering if the upgrade would be worth it?

Since this action was never in a tupperware stock, I can't make any before and after comparisons about this rifle - it went from a Bell and Carlson to a MacMillan Edge. I have had Howas and Vanguards in the tupperware stocks, as well as other rifles (Savage, in particular) and the Bell and Carlsons were more rigid. On my Savage .223, it went from a half-inch shooter to a quarter-inch shooter in a Bell & Carlson. In at least one instance, the Howa went a MOA rifle to a half-MOA rifle when switched from a tupperware stock to a B&C. The B&C are much easier to bed, as well.

My 2 Tikka T-3s are in tupperware-type stocks and they shoot so well that I won't mess with them.
 
Since this action was never in a tupperware stock, I can't make any before and after comparisons about this rifle - it went from a Bell and Carlson to a MacMillan Edge. I have had Howas and Vanguards in the tupperware stocks, as well as other rifles (Savage, in particular) and the Bell and Carlsons were more rigid. On my Savage .223, it went from a half-inch shooter to a quarter-inch shooter in a Bell & Carlson. In at least one instance, the Howa went a MOA rifle to a half-MOA rifle when switched from a tupperware stock to a B&C. The B&C are much easier to bed, as well.

My 2 Tikka T-3s are in tupperware-type stocks and they shoot so well that I won't mess with them.

Thanks,

In the ones you swapped out were they bedded before and after? I've heard about the rigidity before being an issue, but wasn't sure if it was really a valid argument. I don't think I can shoot the rifles any better reguardless of the stock they have, but who knows. Might be worth finding out.

The way I figure its like putting a thicker recoil 'lug' on a M700 to make it stiffer and more accurate... My limited math and engineering computations tell me the diffrence is negligible and likely undetectible.
 
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