Wall tent on trailer?

I have a setup like this. I have a 10x10 canvas teepee from David Ellis Canvas. I have a custom 14 ft long trailer with flip down sides that makes for a large enough area to set the tent up, appx 12x12 deck area. I have a piece of carpet I put under it to make it nice and not damage the tent floor on splinters.

It's really nice when it rains as my trailer is tall, a little over 3 ft ft at the deck so it's a perfect height to sit on the trailer and go into the tent. Keeps you off of the wet ground, snow, etc.. . Also gives you a place under the trailer to put coolers, totes, etc to keep gear out of the weather. Also helps keep people from wearing shoes in the tent and tracking stuff in.

The best setup I have ever had was an ambulance box. That thing was so nice with all heavy duty storage, shelves, etc... solid aluminum construction.
 
I have always wanted to turn one of these into a mountain ready mobile camp. High clearance, the structure is almost completely there except maybe add some pitch to the roof, hang heavy canvas or plywood for sides/roof. Add a wood stove and a cot, and a door.
View attachment 211000
That is the real deal there. A small tent stove would work great!!!
 
I have a setup like this. I have a 10x10 canvas teepee from David Ellis Canvas. I have a custom 14 ft long trailer with flip down sides that makes for a large enough area to set the tent up, appx 12x12 deck area. I have a piece of carpet I put under it to make it nice and not damage the tent floor on splinters.

It's really nice when it rains as my trailer is tall, a little over 3 ft ft at the deck so it's a perfect height to sit on the trailer and go into the tent. Keeps you off of the wet ground, snow, etc.. . Also gives you a place under the trailer to put coolers, totes, etc to keep gear out of the weather. Also helps keep people from wearing shoes in the tent and tracking stuff in.

The best setup I have ever had was an ambulance box. That thing was so nice with all heavy duty storage, shelves, etc... solid aluminum construction.
Sounds a lot like what I'm going to do, except you have a lot more room.
 
Sounds like your mind is made up, so go for it! I think it would be a cozy set-up, only issue might be the small size if you have any guests.
 
Sounds like your mind is made up, so go for it! I think it would be a cozy set-up, only issue might be the small size if you have any guests.
I hope the small size is going to work, if I had it to do over again I would have bought a bigger trailer.
 
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I spent 29 nights in a 55 day period in my wall tent last fall. Once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. In total, five different hunts.

For what its worth...here's what I'd suggest you consider.
1. Wind.
Height is not your friend so the higher you are (like on top of a trailer) the more wind you'll have. Two different nights were +50 mph last fall. One tore my fly up.

2. Wind again.
Invest in some stabilizer jacks. The crosswind on the tent is going to rock the trailer a lot.

3. Storage.
The volume of the tent, the support structure, the stove, wood (from a nearby source), and anything else that doesn't go in the truck adds up.

4. Storage again.
I use an enclosed trailer because it gives me adequate storage out and back and bear-proof storage for food and harvested game while in the field. Others will feel different about the importance of this. Some of my hunts are with three of my kids. As they get older, their stuff gets bigger and their gear space needed expands

5. Stability.
You'll likely still need to stake the tent to keep it down in a high wind. However, the motion of any rocking of the trailer from wind will work those lines and stakes. Only time we had to get a hotel in lieu of the wall tent was in Wyoming. 45 mph gusting to 65+. Couldn't keep 3/8" x 12 inch rebar stakes in the ground. Stakes will work loose if the trailer is rocking.

6. Heat.
I like wood v. propane because its a dryer heat source so clothing and boots dry overnight. Consider a 1-piece stack vs. sections and anchor the stack to the sides of the trailer so it moves with any movement in the floor rather than attaching to the ground.

7. Floor
My experience is an air mattress on the ground is colder than a pad. The air space isn't good. We now use cots and lay an extra bag under our sleeping bag for insulation in late season hunts. Make certain the floor is both insulated and has a vapor barrier.

Good luck. Please post photos!
 
I have always wanted to turn one of these into a mountain ready mobile camp. High clearance, the structure is almost completely there except maybe add some pitch to the roof, hang heavy canvas or plywood for sides/roof. Add a wood stove and a cot, and a door.
View attachment 211000
It seems like a great idea until you hook up to one and pull it around. They are obscenely heavy for their size, empty. I can't imagine how heavy one would be after you built it out a little. The main issue is the pintle to axle length and and the fact its a single axle. They have a ton of tongue weight and are built to be towed behind a 2.5 ton truck. I bought one to do a build like you are talking about, but changed my mind before I even got home.
 
I spent 29 nights in a 55 day period in my wall tent last fall. Once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. In total, five different hunts.

For what its worth...here's what I'd suggest you consider.
1. Wind.
Height is not your friend so the higher you are (like on top of a trailer) the more wind you'll have. Two different nights were +50 mph last fall. One tore my fly up.

2. Wind again.
Invest in some stabilizer jacks. The crosswind on the tent is going to rock the trailer a lot.

3. Storage.
The volume of the tent, the support structure, the stove, wood (from a nearby source), and anything else that doesn't go in the truck adds up.

4. Storage again.
I use an enclosed trailer because it gives me adequate storage out and back and bear-proof storage for food and harvested game while in the field. Others will feel different about the importance of this. Some of my hunts are with three of my kids. As they get older, their stuff gets bigger and their gear space needed expands

5. Stability.
You'll likely still need to stake the tent to keep it down in a high wind. However, the motion of any rocking of the trailer from wind will work those lines and stakes. Only time we had to get a hotel in lieu of the wall tent was in Wyoming. 45 mph gusting to 65+. Couldn't keep 3/8" x 12 inch rebar stakes in the ground. Stakes will work loose if the trailer is rocking.

6. Heat.
I like wood v. propane because its a dryer heat source so clothing and boots dry overnight. Consider a 1-piece stack vs. sections and anchor the stack to the sides of the trailer so it moves with any movement in the floor rather than attaching to the ground.

7. Floor
My experience is an air mattress on the ground is colder than a pad. The air space isn't good. We now use cots and lay an extra bag under our sleeping bag for insulation in late season hunts. Make certain the floor is both insulated and has a vapor barrier.

Good luck. Please post photos!
Those are some things I hadn't thought about, I will look into some stabilizer jacks for sure. I will heat with wood and will take it with me in totes. I will have a cot, and will use the vapor barrier on the floor under the tent. The one piece stack is a very good idea. My tent will be secured to the wood floor with lag screws through the grommets. I will have a rain fly made out of a welding blanket and secured to the ridge and eave poles. Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate it!
 
I spent 29 nights in a 55 day period in my wall tent last fall. Once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. In total, five different hunts.

For what its worth...here's what I'd suggest you consider.
1. Wind.
Height is not your friend so the higher you are (like on top of a trailer) the more wind you'll have. Two different nights were +50 mph last fall. One tore my fly up.

2. Wind again.
Invest in some stabilizer jacks. The crosswind on the tent is going to rock the trailer a lot.

3. Storage.
The volume of the tent, the support structure, the stove, wood (from a nearby source), and anything else that doesn't go in the truck adds up.

4. Storage again.
I use an enclosed trailer because it gives me adequate storage out and back and bear-proof storage for food and harvested game while in the field. Others will feel different about the importance of this. Some of my hunts are with three of my kids. As they get older, their stuff gets bigger and their gear space needed expands

5. Stability.
You'll likely still need to stake the tent to keep it down in a high wind. However, the motion of any rocking of the trailer from wind will work those lines and stakes. Only time we had to get a hotel in lieu of the wall tent was in Wyoming. 45 mph gusting to 65+. Couldn't keep 3/8" x 12 inch rebar stakes in the ground. Stakes will work loose if the trailer is rocking.

6. Heat.
I like wood v. propane because its a dryer heat source so clothing and boots dry overnight. Consider a 1-piece stack vs. sections and anchor the stack to the sides of the trailer so it moves with any movement in the floor rather than attaching to the ground.

7. Floor
My experience is an air mattress on the ground is colder than a pad. The air space isn't good. We now use cots and lay an extra bag under our sleeping bag for insulation in late season hunts. Make certain the floor is both insulated and has a vapor barrier.

Good luck. Please post photos!
Yes, I will post photos.
 
Those are some things I hadn't thought about, I will look into some stabilizer jacks for sure. I will heat with wood and will take it with me in totes. I will have a cot, and will use the vapor barrier on the floor under the tent. The one piece stack is a very good idea. My tent will be secured to the wood floor with lag screws through the grommets. I will have a rain fly made out of a welding blanket and secured to the ridge and eave poles. Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate it!
Keep in mind that you can't hold a wall tent down by just the bottom of the tent and the guy lines are as much there to stabilize the frame as they are to hold the tent down.
 
Keep in mind that you can't hold a wall tent down by just the bottom of the tent and the guy lines are as much there to stabilize the frame as they are to hold the tent down.
Thanks, I have a design that should work. It's hard to explain in words, but I'm pretty sure it will work.
 
I want to joke with the OP asking if he is "That skeererd of snakes" but at the same time I appreciate what he is doing because INGENUITY.

Sounds like he wants basically a tent cabin on wheels. I can appreciate that.

gallagher brings up some good points too.

Being a Wall tent guy I always look at the con's of trailers. Room to turn it around in the campsite, clearance on the road to the campsite, leveling it once at the campsite, stabilizing it at the campsite, time it takes to position it and set it up, etc.

Usually that is offset by the pro's of having beds made stove set up, fridge running, electricity, running water with everything ready to go...

In the case you mentioned with a wall tent, you still have to erect the tent, assemble the stove, set up the cots, etc. the same as setting it up on dirt.

I think having the flatbed trailer set up so you COULD pitch the tent on there is a great idea and has merit. But I wouldn't have a dedicated trailer for that or restrict your tent portability by attaching it to the trailer.

What I have thought could be useful in a trailer though was a Canteen style rig.
Power to run a fridge/freezer (generator)
have a string of lights around camp
Weather proof/ Bear proof storage
Cabinets for camp kitchen gear and supplies.
Awning to cook/eat under
Basically a modern Chuckwagon..


H4eb224e577d94a2581b452cfdda329c6i.jpg


1643906887496.png
 
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I want to joke with the OP asking if he is "That skeererd of snakes" but at the same time I appreciate what he is doing because INGENUITY.

Sounds like he wants basically a tent cabin on wheels. I can appreciate that.

gallagher brings up some good points too.

Being a Wall tent guy I always look at the con's of trailers. Room to turn it around in the campsite, clearance on the road to the campsite, leveling it once at the campsite, stabilizing it at the campsite, time it takes to position it and set it up, etc.

Usually that is offset by the pro's of having beds made stove set up, fridge running, electricity, running water with everything ready to go...

In the case you mentioned with a wall tent, you still have to erect the tent, assemble the stove, set up the cots, etc. the same as setting it up on dirt.

I think having the flatbed trailer set up so you COULD pitch the tent on there is a great idea and has merit. But I wouldn't have a dedicated trailer for that or restrict your tent portability by attaching it to the trailer.

What I have thought could be useful in a trailer though was a Canteen style rig.
Power to run a fridge/freezer (generator)
have a string of lights around camp
Weather proof/ Bear proof storage
Cabinets for camp kitchen gear and supplies.
Awning to cook/eat under
Basically a modern Chuckwagon..


H4eb224e577d94a2581b452cfdda329c6i.jpg


View attachment 211043
I checked into something like this and they cost a fortune. Also, I would have to store it in Idaho City and we get about 7 feet of snow in the winter. Do you have a website I could look at?
 
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