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My dude, in all respect to you and just being honest... that small ring on your triple clamp for the tie-down is SUPER sketchy. Get a spring saver (or a piece of 2x4) to prevent movement on the compression of the forks, and loop the tie-down over the handlebars where they belong. That set up is a recipe for disaster...
My dude, your concern is welcome, but unwarranted.

Those tie downs are Canyon Dancer tie downs. They don't even bend until you exceed 2200 pounds...each! The bolts are rated in shear at over 4500 pounds...each! So the bike isn't going anywhere. I connect to those powerful rings with climb-rated carabiners on 2" straps.

However, being paranoid about such things, I have a rated climbing dogbone attached from my receiver to the footpeg on the door side. You can also see that both wheels are literally tied to the carrier. And I also have the subframe tied directly to the carrier. Both tie downs could fail, and the bike would stay happily on the carrier.

As for the 2x4, it's absolutely not necessary. I haven't had a leaky fork seal in 9 years carrying this way. I think the 2x4 is left over from long ago technology weakness.
 
My dude, your concern is welcome, but unwarranted.

Those tie downs are Canyon Dancer tie downs. They don't even bend until you exceed 2200 pounds...each! The bolts are rated in shear at over 4500 pounds...each! So the bike isn't going anywhere. I connect to those powerful rings with climb-rated carabiners on 2" straps.

However, being paranoid about such things, I have a rated climbing dogbone attached from my receiver to the footpeg on the door side. You can also see that both wheels are literally tied to the carrier. And I also have the subframe tied directly to the carrier. Both tie downs could fail, and the bike would stay happily on the carrier.

As for the 2x4, it's absolutely not necessary. I haven't had a leaky fork seal in 9 years carrying this way. I think the 2x4 is left over from long ago technology weakness.
I’m not doubting the beefiness of those straps or how the wheels are tied down. I’m saying 1) the metal hook that is attached to the triple clamp bolt is holding a lot of tension and can easily shear the bolt off

2) movement up and down will cause your suspension to compress -this is the reason why off road truck racers use tire bonnets to hold their wheels firmly down and the machine will move up and down via the suspension. Having something between the wheel and lower triple clamp prevents that movement.

I’m more than a “weekend warrior” when it comes to racing bikes. It’s only a suggestion to keep you and others safe in my opinion.
 
I’m not doubting the beefiness of those straps or how the wheels are tied down. I’m saying 1) the metal hook that is attached to the triple clamp bolt is holding a lot of tension and can easily shear the bolt off

2) movement up and down will cause your suspension to compress -this is the reason why off road truck racers use tire bonnets to hold their wheels firmly down and the machine will move up and down via the suspension. Having something between the wheel and lower triple clamp prevents that movement.

I’m more than a “weekend warrior” when it comes to racing bikes. It’s only a suggestion to keep you and others safe in my opinion.

I appreciate it, but it's not warranted, because you are concerned about things that are actually not going to happen.

1. Those bolts are rated for at least 4600 pounds in single shear. There's nowhere near that tension on those straps.

2. Fork springs never approach plastic deformation even when compressed 100% of suspension travel. SSS springs literally cannot be permanently compressed even if held down for months at full travel. I'm guessing that's what you mean by "cause your suspension to compress". And the slight motion up and down as I drive will have no adverse effects on suspension. It's literally made to do that. If you are actually concerned with seals, that's also not an issue, at least for me.

Based on your screen name, I don't doubt your motorcycle experience. And I do appreciate your concern for me and the other readers. (y)

I've been riding since 1973. I rebuild my own suspension. There isn't anything in there that can be harmed by fluid pressure other than seals, and tie downs don't generate enough pressure to cause any harm to seals, even if cycling occurs.
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I went against my better judgement and picked up a 2022 Silverado half ton. 17k miles. The prior owner did me a solid and already had the 10 ply Duratracs on it.
Be a great truck when you get good tires on it. mtmuley
 
if it doesn’t have a gas cap try to find a cap that fits on; bearing buddy caps are popular. They have a habit of getting a lot of dust and dirt in them and then you’ll lost a fuel pump. It’s a terrible design from my experience.
 
Be a great truck when you get good tires on it. mtmuley
Yeah, I’m not sold on them yet. Had to patch one the first time I took it down a day of two tracks. I’d been using the Cooper Discoverer AT3s the last 100k miles on that Tundra and they never really let me down.
 
if it doesn’t have a gas cap try to find a cap that fits on; bearing buddy caps are popular. They have a habit of getting a lot of dust and dirt in them and then you’ll lost a fuel pump. It’s a terrible design from my experience.
On mine? I’ll have to look into it. I’ve wondered about how well that design holds up. It’s just got the hinge valve that opens when you stick the nozzle in.
 
Yeah, I’m not sold on them yet. Had to patch one the first time I took it down a day of two tracks. I’d been using the Cooper Discoverer AT3s the last 100k miles on that Tundra and they never really let me down.
I have the Discoverer on the wife's rig. ST Maxx on mine. mtmuley
 
Can’t go wrong with a Toyota. My 2nd gen runs like new with 165k. Only thing I’ve done is clamp down the recirculation pipe of the header with some pipe strap. It’s common in cold environments for that to come loose and you’ll get a little tick out of the exhaust. 10$ fix with a m6 nut and some plumbers tape. IMG_1194.jpegIMG_1195.jpeg
 
Can’t go wrong with a Toyota. My 2nd gen runs like new with 165k. Only thing I’ve done is clamp down the recirculation pipe of the header with some pipe strap. It’s common in cold environments for that to come loose and you’ll get a little tick out of the exhaust. 10$ fix with a m6 nut and some plumbers tape. View attachment 313778View attachment 313779
I can fix anything on a Chevy with that redneck crap. mtmuley
 
LS engines are the best ever made. After the original small block of course. mtmuley
Yeah I just got tired of putting cardboard under mine every night. Otherwise it was pretty bulletproof
 

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