Yeti GOBOX Collection

The Big Iron - .45-70

Great looking rifle! The Henry lever actions I've shot have all been at least reasonably accurate or better.

If you're considering a Skinner - and might someday want to scope your rifle, consider this setup I put on a Henry 360 Buckhammer not long ago: Skinner aperture sight on their combo sight & scope mount and a set of Talley Quick Release rings. You can get rid of the scope in seconds with no tools, or re-mount it with very little change from the zero.
360 buckhammer near Beehive.jpg

Re the handloading with the 45-70, take care. There are different levels of 45-70 loads. Typically they're broken into three:

1) Trapdoor loads - under 28,000 CUP - these are the lightest loads. The starting loads are very pleasant to shoot. There are also some serious game-taking loads here which won't beat up the shooter much either.

2) Lever Action loads - up to 40,000 CUP - the next step up and safe for Henry & Marlin lever action rifles. Top levels of these loads will let ya know you've touched off something with power. Do they kill any better? I dunno, but they do go "boom" with authority. Hornady still lists a 400 grain Speer at 2002 fps. I've loaded it, yup, it's stout. Hang on and have fun!

3) Modern Rifle loads - up to 50,000 CUP - meaning Ruger falling block actions and properly converted bolt action rifles. These loads are STOUT - and NOT recommended for lever action rifles.

Those are the breakdowns as published by Hodgdon in their Online Data Center and also in their Annual Manual.

I've been loading the 45-70 for quite some time and have used both Marlin and Henry rifles. It's truly a case of "mild to wild" with the recoil and power.

Highly recommend reading the info on the Garrett Cartridges website, as Randy Garrett did a great job of coming up with some superb premium ammo for the 45-70. There's some great stuff there like the Vince Lupo safaris wherein Lupo took African big game, really big game, with his 45-70 and Garrett ammo.

45-70 bullets are NOT created equal. Some expand readily on small deer. Others hang together and punch completely through big game. Really big game. Brian Pearce reported that he shot one cape buffalo and killed it, as well as the unseen one standing behind it, with one shot! It's not as powerful as the 458 Win mag, though some handloaders seem to try to reach that level, but it is strong on penetration, with the right bullets.

I've done a lot of loading, testing, practicing with the 45-70, but honestly I've only taken one mule deer with it, years ago. I used a handloaded 405 grain Remington soft point bullet at about 1650 fps. The bullet broke both shoulder blades and the spine and dropped the muley instantly at about 70 yards. Bullet buried itself somewhere in the hillside beyond.

You might also want to head on over to the Marlin Owners forum of which I've been a member for about 20 years. There's a gob of great info on the 45-70 there.

So, Garrett Cartridges, Hodgdon Online Data Center and Marlin Owners forum. That ought to get you going!

Personally, I'm real fond of H4198, Varget, Reloader 7, and more. It's also easy to load the 400+ grain bullets subsonic should you want to do so. I like the 350 grain Hornady, either the flat nose or the round nose soft points for full power hunting loads. The 400 gr Speer is accurate as all get out but a tad soft if really deep penetration is needed. Cast bullets and the 45-70 go together so very well.

Here's my Marlin 45-70. It's got a barrel mounted Skinner aperture sight, their Bear Buster front sight, and a 2.5x Leupold in Quick Release rings. Since this photo I've also added a very bright weapons light mounted on a Wild West Guns light mount. It's my camp gun in bear country.
45-70 Boyds shooting.jpg

Oh - whichever dies you prefer are probably fine. I've used both RCBS and Hornady dies - but I like to add a fourth die - the Lee Factory Crimp Die. It does a great job of crimping the bullet after it's been properly seated. It's certainly possible to seat and crimp in one step, but I like splitting it into two steps, seating then crimping. I use a turret press so it's an easy step to add.

Feel free to PM me with questions. I really like that big ol' cartridge!

Regards, Guy
 
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Great looking rifle! The Henry lever actions I've shot have all been at least reasonably accurate or better.

If you're considering a Skinner - and might someday want to scope your rifle, consider this setup I put on a Henry 360 Buckhammer not long ago: Skinner aperture sight on their combo sight & scope mount and a set of Talley Quick Release rings. You can get rid of the scope in seconds with no tools, or re-mount it with very little change from the zero.
View attachment 337112

Re the handloading with the 45-70, take care. There are different levels of 45-70 loads. Typically they're broken into three:

1) Trapdoor loads - under 28,000 CUP - these are the lightest loads. The starting loads are very pleasant to shoot. There are also some serious game-taking loads here which won't beat up the shooter much either.

2) Lever Action loads - up to 40,000 CUP - the next step up and safe for Henry & Marlin lever action rifles. Top levels of these loads will let ya know you've touched off something with power. Do they kill any better? I dunno, but they do go "boom" with authority. Hornady still lists a 400 grain Speer at 2002 fps. I've loaded it, yup, it's stout. Hang on and have fun!

3) Modern Rifle loads - up to 50,000 CUP - meaning Ruger falling block actions and properly converted bolt action rifles. These loads are STOUT - and NOT recommended for lever action rifles.

Those are the breakdowns as published by Hodgdon in their Online Data Center and also in their Annual Manual.

I've been loading the 45-70 for quite some time and have used both Marlin and Henry rifles. It's truly a case of "mild to wild" with the recoil and power.

Highly recommend reading the info on the Garrett Cartridges website, as Randy Garrett did a great job of coming up with some superb premium ammo for the 45-70. There's some great stuff there like the Vince Lupo safaris wherein Lupo took African big game, really big game, with his 45-70 and Garrett ammo.

45-70 bullets are NOT created equal. Some expand readily on small deer. Others hang together and punch completely through big game. Really big game. Brian Pearce reported that he shot one cape buffalo and killed it, as well as the unseen one standing behind it, with one shot! It's not as powerful as the 458 Win mag, though some handloaders seem to try to reach that level, but it is strong on penetration, with the right bullets.

I've done a lot of loading, testing, practicing with the 45-70, but honestly I've only taken one mule deer with it, years ago. I used a handloaded 405 grain Remington soft point bullet at about 1650 fps. The bullet broke both shoulder blades and the spine and dropped the muley instantly at about 70 yards. Bullet buried itself somewhere in the hillside beyond.

You might also want to head on over to the Marlin Owners forum of which I've been a member for about 20 years. There's a gob of great info on the 45-70 there.

So, Garrett Cartridges, Hodgdon Online Data Center and Marlin Owners forum. That ought to get you going!

Personally, I'm real fond of H4198, Varget, Reloader 7, and more. It's also easy to load the 400+ grain bullets subsonic should you want to do so. I like the 350 grain Hornady, either the flat nose or the round nose soft points for full power hunting loads. The 400 gr Speer is accurate as all get out but a tad soft if really deep penetration is needed. Cast bullets and the 45-70 go together so very well.

Here's my Marlin 45-70. It's got a barrel mounted Skinner aperture sight, their Bear Buster front sight, and a 2.5x Leupold in Quick Release rings. Since this photo I've also mounted a very bright weapons light mounted on a Wild West Guns light mount. It's my camp gun in bear country.
View attachment 337113

Oh - whichever dies you prefer are probably fine. I've used both RCBS and Hornady dies - but I like to add a fourth die - the Lee Factory Crimp Die. It does a great job of crimping the bullet after it's been properly seated. It's certainly possible to seat and crimp in one step, but I like splitting it into two steps, seating then crimping. I use a turret press so it's an easy step to add.

Feel free to PM me with questions. I really like that big ol' cartridge!

Regards, Guy
I got the Lee factory crimp die for my Marlin Trapper. I think it is the way to go.
 
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I’ve always loved lever actions, and since I was a kid I always wanted to own a .45-70. I decided that it was time and ended up coming home with a Henry with some very nice wood. The new Marlins I looked at were great, but I wanted blued steel and walnut in a carbine length barrel instead of laminate. As nice as a low powered scope would be for hunting purposes, I am probably going to stay with iron sights and add a set of Skinner peep sights.
If you are considering a Skinner, have you considered a tang sight instead? There are some advantages. This little buck was shot at 160-180 yds. I don't recall the details, but the tang sight is usually set at 180 or 200 yds and the barrel sights set for 100. Being able to have zeros for two different ranges is a lot of help with high trajectory bullets. All of my lever guns have both tang sights and barrel sights for this reason. There are some things to consider when choosing a tang sight, some of which involve safety, so do some homework if you choose that route.

P9290406.JPG
 
If you are considering a Skinner, have you considered a tang sight instead? There are some advantages. This little buck was shot at 160-180 yds. I don't recall the details, but the tang sight is usually set at 180 or 200 yds and the barrel sights set for 100. Being able to have zeros for two different ranges is a lot of help with high trajectory bullets. All of my lever guns have both tang sights and barrel sights for this reason. There are some things to consider when choosing a tang sight, some of which involve safety, so do some homework if you choose that route.

View attachment 337126
That is extremely cool, but for my purposes I think a simple fixed peep is going to be the way to go.
 
I doubt you can improve on a moderate smokeless load with a 405 grain cast bullet. There is nothing in North America that will stop one out of a 45-70.

Almost any medium extruded powder will work in it. I have used IMR 3031, 4831 and AA 5744 and killed almost everything in Montana with it.

Don’t worry about penetration, you will have plenty…



IMG_5120.jpegscan0004-3.jpegRodgersbuffalo_zps2896f8b8.jpeg
 
I doubt you can improve on a moderate smokeless load with a 405 grain cast bullet. There is nothing in North America that will stop one out of a 45-70.

Almost any medium extruded powder will work in it. I have used IMR 3031, 4831 and AA 5744 and killed almost everything in Montana with it.

Don’t worry about penetration, you will have plenty…



View attachment 337161View attachment 337162View attachment 337163
My only hangup on the hard casts is wondering if they make enough of a wound channel on your typical heart/lung shot on a deer or elk compared to a soft point. With the bore diameter of the .45-70 it’s probably not worth worrying about. I have no doubt that’s the way to go for penetration.
 
My only hangup on the hard casts is wondering if they make enough of a wound channel on your typical heart/lung shot on a deer or elk compared to a soft point. With the bore diameter of the .45-70 it’s probably not worth worrying about. I have no doubt that’s the way to go for penetration.
You need a wide meplat for energy transfer. The soft tissue cavitates around the bullet and causes trauma.
 
My only hangup on the hard casts is wondering if they make enough of a wound channel on your typical heart/lung shot on a deer or elk compared to a soft point. With the bore diameter of the .45-70 it’s probably not worth worrying about. I have no doubt that’s the way to go for penetration.
A 45 caliber hole is what all the rest of the sub-45 caliber bullets hope they can expand to when they hit tissue…
 
My only hangup on the hard casts is wondering if they make enough of a wound channel on your typical heart/lung shot on a deer or elk compared to a soft point. With the bore diameter of the .45-70 it’s probably not worth worrying about. I have no doubt that’s the way to go for penetration.
You do not have to use "hard casts". I don't know why anyone does, frankly.

The one on the right killed a springbok, the one next to it, an eland. Both one-shot kills. These were very soft lead (30:1 as I recall, but it has been a long time).

P8030156.JPG
 
There are some things to consider when choosing a tang sight, some of which involve safety, so do some homework if you choose that route.

Hey @BrentD, explain this. Or is it just as simple as the tang sight poking a hole in your face if you're not paying attention? I've never used a tang sight but have always wanted a rifle with one...
 
Mainly because they work real well...

And so do soft ones. So why bother? I could post just as many dead critter pictures.

Hey @BrentD, explain this. Or is it just as simple as the tang sight poking a hole in your face if you're not paying attention? I've never used a tang sight but have always wanted a rifle with one...

Mostly, it is about NOT poking a hole in your eye or cheek, but there are other considerations, like dialing in elevation as a modern scope shooter does with turrets. Some sights are made for that, some are not. It is a trade off.

Some sights will lay flat on the comb, others will hit the point of the comb and can only lay back so far, far enough to give you a good poke. Others will lay below the point of the comb.

So far as vernier sights go, the best of the best are these. The MVA 130 series (130-133) s are especially nice on lever guns. Note they have different arrangements for the elevator screw, or no screw at all. Some have windage, some do not. But if they won't lay flat across the point of your comb, with the eye cup set for whatever yardage you please, then you have a problem.

The sight on that Marlin is an original Ballard #3 Gallery sight. It happens to fold pretty close to flat. Close enough in this case because of it's eye cup design.

The alternative is a vintage Marbles #2 (I think that's the model to look for, but have to double check, if you care). Or one of these https://montanavintagearms.com/product/mva-combination-rear-sights/, which is at least a close approximation of the Marbles.

Lyman popsicle sights like these have a few other issues, that's they I would prefer the Marbles or MVA in this style. Typically, they will fold down below the point of the comb, making them the safest of the sights to use.

Last to consider is the base. Most, if not all, vintage Marlins and Winchesters are drilled and tapped for tang sights. I do not know about the new ones. But all of these sights, new and old, can be had with bases specific for various rifles. But there also needs to be room for your thumb - maybe you can change your grip and room for the hammer spur to come to full @#)(# and clearance for the bolt, though sometimes, I don't worry about the last. Some people prefer a Stevens sight base, on a Marlin, instead of the standard Marlin/Ballard sight. Some turn them around backwards. So, some experimentation and at least a bit of homework is worthwhile. Good sights are not cheap, so getting them right the first time is important. BTW, you can move sight staffs around among rifles, so one sight can often work for multiple guns.

BTW, I see that MVA has a new sight specifically for muzzleloaders - that would be interesting and useful for a lot of people.

 
I would like to hear some comparisons between the Marlin Guide Gun and the Winchester Model 1886 in 45-70.

My family has always been a Winchester family with a number of model 70's, a model 94 and a model 64.

I know the well storied functionality of the MGG and I'm wondering what I would be giving up if I followed my family tradition... https://www.winchesterguns.com/products/rifles/model-1886/model-1886-short-rifle.html
 
I would like to hear some comparisons between the Marlin Guide Gun and the Winchester Model 1886 in 45-70.

My family has always been a Winchester family with a number of model 70's, a model 94 and a model 64.

I know the well storied functionality of the MGG and I'm wondering what I would be giving up if I followed my family tradition... https://www.winchesterguns.com/products/rifles/model-1886/model-1886-short-rifle.html
The Marlin will work well and provide all the dependability you need in a lever action rifle. The Winchester will do the same thing.

For me it would come down to the aesthetics of the gun, and I prefer the 1886. Another thing to consider is a Browning 1886 over the Winchester, even though they were both made by Miroku, the Browning is a better gun.

For more money, you could just find an original 1886 and shoot that if nostalgia means anything to you.

Otherwise, I think it is up to you how they look and which one is better and go accordingly …
 
I know I have a marlin from the Remington years and am itching to get a browning 1886 in the worst way. Have my sights set on two owned by non-shooting friends and they won't name a price. Nothing wrong with the Marlins at all, (sbl) but they just dont look like a Louis L'Amour gun. One thing is the 1886 dont lend themselves to using an optical crutch. With the Marlins you have to have willpower to not scope it.

I wouldn't get too hung up on expansion of a 45 cast... its a BIG hole and generally has two sides. My biggest gripe is the Marlin has a TERRIBLE trigger compared to the triggers I'm used to. It will never be mistaken for a 2# Timney for sure. Leads me to jerk and shoot right. HAS to be the trigger not the shooter.

405 with varying amounts of 3031 is my choice, but its pretty forgiving.
 
Leupold BX-4 Rangefinding Binoculars

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