Leupold BX-4 Rangefinding Binoculars

Shaft straightness necessity?

ImBillT

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If I’m basically just starting, and I’m shooting a stick bow, instinctively, at 20yds and under, is there any reason for me to pay extra for a shaft that is straighter than +- .006”? My guess is “no”, but I figured I’d ask before I bought a few dozen shafts. Thanks.
 
If I’m basically just starting, and I’m shooting a stick bow, instinctively, at 20yds and under, is there any reason for me to pay extra for a shaft that is straighter than +- .006”? My guess is “no”, but I figured I’d ask before I bought a few dozen shafts. Thanks.
No. Don't design something with a micrometer and then build it with a 20lb hammer.
 
I believe getting the correct spine is more important than the straightness. .006 is okay for field tips but depending on the broadhead .003 may be better..... then again maybe not. An example would be a Zwicky Delta with bleeder blades vs. a 2 blade Eskimo. The .006 may cause greater wind plaining. Then again you may never know until you try them. Your release may have a greater influence than your arrow straightness.
Get a 1/2 dozen of each and try them with the broadhead you plan on hunting with and then go with the best results.
 
Maybe I should ask it slightly differently. Anyone with experience shooting 2-blade fixed broadheads with a +- .006” shaft? How bad is it at 20yds? I can see how it could get pretty bad at long range and/or high velocity, but how bad is it really at 20yds and 155-180fps?
 
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With my recurve I shoot 2-blade Cutthroats on Black Eagle Vintage shafts (±.005" advertised straightness). I'm no Robin Hood, but I'm confident in my ability to put arrows in a deer-sized kill zone at 20 yds. I'm also confident that a straighter arrow wouldn't make a bit of difference in my accuracy.
 
I’d have to totally agree if you’re shooting traditional at <20…

When i got my first compound— (adult onset archery hunter) I didn’t think anything of buying .003s over the .001s I was given.. I lost the straightest nicest arrows so quick because I didn’t know better, then. Point is, the cheaper arrows shot really well, and seemed to weigh in with about the same consistency.. I wouldn’t worry a bit if I were you!
 
Maybe I should ask it slightly differently. Anyone with experience shooting 2-blade fixed broadheads with a +- .006” shaft? How bad is it at 20yds? I can see how it could get pretty bad at long range and/or high velocity, but how bad is it really at 20yds and 155-180fps?
I think it in fact does make a difference in penetration. If your arrow hasn't straightened out at whatever distance your target is it will be far less effective. You may hit the target at point of aim each and every time but if your arrow hits at an angel your penetration will be seriously diminished.

Keep in mind that this issue can be caused by different factors,

1. Arrow spine matched to the point weight, arrow length and bow weight.

2. Broadhead type.

3. Arrow quality (consistency) and straightness.

4. Your release - torquing, smooth release, follow through.

5. Good anchor point each and every time, be consistent.

In reality .006 vs .003 you may never see a difference in arrow flight. But in my opinion, it lessons one area of concern. For broadheads I go with .003 for my recurves and .001 for my compounds. Could I get by with .006 in my recurves ya probably and .003 with my compounds with mechanicals yup. I won't chance it with fixed heads.

I still think it would be worth your time to get 1/2 dozen of each and test them. Worst case you will have 6 great shooting arrows and best case 12 arrows that shoot the same and your questioned answered with hands on experience.
 
I think it in fact does make a difference in penetration. If your arrow hasn't straightened out at whatever distance your target is it will be far less effective. You may hit the target at point of aim each and every time but if your arrow hits at an angel your penetration will be seriously diminished.

Keep in mind that this issue can be caused by different factors,

1. Arrow spine matched to the point weight, arrow length and bow weight.

2. Broadhead type.

3. Arrow quality (consistency) and straightness.

4. Your release - torquing, smooth release, follow through.

5. Good anchor point each and every time, be consistent.

In reality .006 vs .003 you may never see a difference in arrow flight. But in my opinion, it lessons one area of concern. For broadheads I go with .003 for my recurves and .001 for my compounds. Could I get by with .006 in my recurves ya probably and .003 with my compounds with mechanicals yup. I won't chance it with fixed heads.

I still think it would be worth your time to get 1/2 dozen of each and test them. Worst case you will have 6 great shooting arrows and best case 12 arrows that shoot the same and your questioned answered with hands on experience.
Valid point
 
Don’t take this the wrong way, or slight against your ability, but there’s no way you’re going to see a difference between the two with a trad bow at 20 and under.
Not taken the wrong way. Taken as the realities of a new shooter combined with the chosen equipment. I would never suggest that a guy determined to shoot an M98 or M48 with iron sights, at 100-150yds, should use only Lapua brass and bullets, weight sort his brass, and tune his powder charge and seating depth etc. Even if he could tell the difference, I’m not sure it would matter, but with iron sights an a rotten military barrel, I doubt he could tell the difference, regardless of how good a shot he was.
 
I think it in fact does make a difference in penetration. If your arrow hasn't straightened out at whatever distance your target is it will be far less effective. You may hit the target at point of aim each and every time but if your arrow hits at an angel your penetration will be seriously diminished.

Keep in mind that this issue can be caused by different factors,

1. Arrow spine matched to the point weight, arrow length and bow weight.

2. Broadhead type.

3. Arrow quality (consistency) and straightness.

4. Your release - torquing, smooth release, follow through.

5. Good anchor point each and every time, be consistent.

In reality .006 vs .003 you may never see a difference in arrow flight. But in my opinion, it lessons one area of concern. For broadheads I go with .003 for my recurves and .001 for my compounds. Could I get by with .006 in my recurves ya probably and .003 with my compounds with mechanicals yup. I won't chance it with fixed heads.

I still think it would be worth your time to get 1/2 dozen of each and test them. Worst case you will have 6 great shooting arrows and best case 12 arrows that shoot the same and your questioned answered with hands on experience.
You definitely bring up some valid points. I’m not sure that I’m going to be good enough with my release and anchor point to show a difference, BUT, they won’t necessarily matter in terms of the angle of the broadhead compared to the angle to flight of the arrow. After doing some quick math, unless I did something wrong, .006” over 32” is 6.74 MOA. That seems like a lot to me. Then again, in terms of broadhead penetration, maybe it’s nothing at all. Has anyone ever tested that? Do you think you’ve noticed a difference in penetration? Now that you mention it, I’m confident that poor shaft straightness will reduce penetration. The question now is “is it enough to matter?”.
 
Don’t take this the wrong way, or slight against your ability, but there’s no way you’re going to see a difference between the two with a trad bow at 20 and under.
The guy at my local shop explained it to me this way. If you have perfect form shooting in perfect conditions everytime sure that difference in straightness might matter. For the rest of us humans it really won't.
 
you wouldn't see a difference out to 70yds shot out of a hooter shooter nevermind a trad bow at 20yds with human factor involved. The biggest issue with any all carbon shaft is spine consistency around the shaft.
 
you wouldn't see a difference out to 70yds shot out of a hooter shooter nevermind a trad bow at 20yds with human factor involved. The biggest issue with any all carbon shaft is spine consistency around the shaft.

Any reason Easton Bowhunters would be bad enough that I should avoid them?
 
Tuning your arrow to your bow I'd say is more important. I shoot my Doug fir arrows out to 30+ plus yards but they are tuned to my bow.
 
You will never be able to shoot the difference with your trad gear. I’ve had real good luck with the blemished goldtip traditional and more recently the Bremen centershot. No real need for a ‘traditional’ marketed arrow but I do think the wood grain coating adds a little durability.
 
Well…between broadheads, inserts, feathers, fletching jig, hot melt, glue, 3 dozen shafts, and 6 fletched arrows(Black Eagle Vintage) I could have purchased a reasonably nice rifle and maybe even had money left over.
 
Well…between broadheads, inserts, feathers, fletching jig, hot melt, glue, 3 dozen shafts, and 6 fletched arrows(Black Eagle Vintage) I could have purchased a reasonably nice rifle and maybe even had money left over.
Yeah, i took a break from archery equipment for like 15 years and everytime Ive gone in for a component, half dozen new arrows, or even just blow one up on a rock shooting grouse nowadays, the sticker shock pain is real.

best description I got on straightness was last night at the local shop. Got a dozen new black eagle Rampages as I wasn’t as happy with my gold tips (and had lost a couple on the local course recently). Owner said “these are either straight or shattered, there’s no in between” - which is definitely on my level of ‘archery equipment condition assessment’ skills.
 
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