Gastro Gnome - Eat Better Wherever

Sell or Send back first?

Nope sadly not. With being a newly married man and a recent (Sept 23) home owner amongst other things I haven’t gotten around to either trying round two of trying to get that brake off, have a gunsmith do it or even chop and rethreaded, or sent back to Savage, or sold and use that money 💰 for a lefty in either something that starts with 7 or 30 (whether bought or built).
Oh I have sent you a couple texts this year to see how your hunting season and such went.
Congratulations and congratulations! Lol

Yeah, my old phone bit the dust.
Switched from Tracphone.
Their customer service is majorly lacking!
Tried to bring my old phone number over, but was easier to just say eff it!!

I'll text you my new #.
 
Some threadlockers only release by boiling in water, like Rocksett. You'd have to get it over 2k degrees to break the bond with a torch.
I know the red Loctite needs heat to release it.
Never did get the bolt out of the end of that crank shaft!!

I really can't see the factory using a thread locker on a muzzle brake.
Betting it's just carbon caked.
It's amazing how carbon penetrates in places!!
 
Or maybe soak it in Kroil, then tap it lightly with a brass hammer. Fill a jar with Kroil, and stand the rifle in a corner muzzle down with the device submerged in the Kroil.
We used Kroil but we didn’t try it in that manner. Might have to try that before the torch or I could sell it as is.
 
PB Blaster, Kroil, trans fluid mixed with paint thinner. Any of those three will do some surprising things.

Heat next.

Savage won’t replace the rifle, but they might replace the break for a low fee.

Sounds like you need a left handed rifle. Sell, and I buy something worth having.
 
PB Blaster, Kroil, trans fluid mixed with paint thinner. Any of those three will do some surprising things.

Heat next.

Savage won’t replace the rifle, but they might replace the break for a low fee.

Sounds like you need a left handed rifle. Sell, and I buy something worth having.
I believe that is what I am going to do. I will try Kroil again then controlled heat to hopefully fix it.
It’s a good shooting rifle with a variety of factory ammo (I haven’t reloaded much for it), but good luck finding 300 WSM on the shelf. Thankfully I can reload and have a decent amount of brass if I need to. Sadly powder is expensive and large magnum rifle primers are hard to find.

Since it’s hard to find a left handed 300 WSM that’s threaded outside of the Savage M110 Timberline and Ultralight which I could get for a replacement, but part of me wants to try a different brand since Savage is all I have ever known. I am thinking about building one myself piece by piece over a couple years or I could go with a lefty in either 7 PRC (I am waiting on the Bergara B14 Sierra Wilderness), a 300 Win Mag since there is plenty of ammo available and I already have 30 cal bullets for reloading, 7 mm REM Mag (no one in my immediate family has one, but two of them have 300 WM) or 280 AI (but that runs into the lack of ammo availability options like the 300 WSM.

I have options since I won’t need it this year since I have a 270 Win for WV and PA and my new home state of Ohio is straight wall. I don’t “need” it next fall, but I want to take my 270 Win for pronghorn and possibly that other rifle if I have it for mule deer 🦌 in Wyoming. Yes I know my 270 Win would work great on big mule deer 🦌 but if I have two rifles I wouldn’t mind taking one animal with each. But if I don’t have one by then I know that my old 270 will do the job l just might upgrade to a much lighter and durable stock to replace the wooden one. Something from Stocky’s perhaps.

Thanks for your input as well
 
I believe that is what I am going to do. I will try Kroil again then controlled heat to hopefully fix it.
It’s a good shooting rifle with a variety of factory ammo (I haven’t reloaded much for it), but good luck finding 300 WSM on the shelf. Thankfully I can reload and have a decent amount of brass if I need to. Sadly powder is expensive and large magnum rifle primers are hard to find.

Since it’s hard to find a left handed 300 WSM that’s threaded outside of the Savage M110 Timberline and Ultralight which I could get for a replacement, but part of me wants to try a different brand since Savage is all I have ever known. I am thinking about building one myself piece by piece over a couple years or I could go with a lefty in either 7 PRC (I am waiting on the Bergara B14 Sierra Wilderness), a 300 Win Mag since there is plenty of ammo available and I already have 30 cal bullets for reloading, 7 mm REM Mag (no one in my immediate family has one, but two of them have 300 WM) or 280 AI (but that runs into the lack of ammo availability options like the 300 WSM.

I have options since I won’t need it this year since I have a 270 Win for WV and PA and my new home state of Ohio is straight wall. I don’t “need” it next fall, but I want to take my 270 Win for pronghorn and possibly that other rifle if I have it for mule deer 🦌 in Wyoming. Yes I know my 270 Win would work great on big mule deer 🦌 but if I have two rifles I wouldn’t mind taking one animal with each. But if I don’t have one by then I know that my old 270 will do the job l just might upgrade to a much lighter and durable stock to replace the wooden one. Something from Stocky’s perhaps.

Thanks for your input as well
I’m a big fan of Remington 700’s, but would lean hard toward 700 footprint based “clone” or not quite clone over a 700 these days as the price and availability has changed. Tikka and Howa are great options that might actually be better if you don’t plan to do any future work on the rifle.

280AI is a fantastic cartridge, but so are the 30-06, 300 SAUM, 300WSM, and 300 WM. I have 30-06AI, which is the painful way to equal a 300SAUM, and I flat out love it. If you want to dedicate yourself to reloading, I would strongly consider the 280AI, or 300SAUM/300WSM. If you want factory ammo availability, I would suggest 300WM unless some folks suggest that it’s not as available as I imagine. Tikka’s are great for long cartridges, and frankly they’re about as accurate a custom rifle. If you told me you would give me a factory rifle, but I could never modify it, I would have a hard time choosing between a Tikka and Howa. I might pick a CZ, but I’m an odd nut. I don’t know what exists for lefties.
 
I’m a big fan of Remington 700’s, but would lean hard toward 700 footprint based “clone” or not quite clone over a 700 these days as the price and availability has changed. Tikka and Howa are great options that might actually be better if you don’t plan to do any future work on the rifle.

280AI is a fantastic cartridge, but so are the 30-06, 300 SAUM, 300WSM, and 300 WM. I have 30-06AI, which is the painful way to equal a 300SAUM, and I flat out love it. If you want to dedicate yourself to reloading, I would strongly consider the 280AI, or 300SAUM/300WSM. If you want factory ammo availability, I would suggest 300WM unless some folks suggest that it’s not as available as I imagine. Tikka’s are great for long cartridges, and frankly they’re about as accurate a custom rifle. If you told me you would give me a factory rifle, but I could never modify it, I would have a hard time choosing between a Tikka and Howa. I might pick a CZ, but I’m an odd nut. I don’t know what exists for lefties.
I have wanted a Tikka for a very long time, I was going to go with one in left hand 300 WSM (the T3X Lite Stainless actually) but got a good deal on the RH Savage M110 Long Range Hunter.
Sadly they don’t make a left handed 300 WSM with a threaded barrel nor have they adopted 7 PRC yet even though they have 6.5 PRC. I have been on JA Outdoors looking at the left hand complete actions there even though they are $875 with no barrel.

Howa/Vanguard only come in right hand and one would have to pay $2000 for a lefty Weatherby but most of their barrels are 26 in long, which is not good for using a suppressor.
 
PB Blaster, Kroil, trans fluid mixed with paint thinner. Any of those three will do some surprising things.

Heat next.

Savage won’t replace the rifle, but they might replace the break for a low fee.

Sounds like you need a left handed rifle. Sell, and I buy something worth having.
I put my rifle barrel in container filled with Kroil. Up to right above the muzzle brake. I left it at my Dad’s and he checked it 3 days later and tried turning it safely with pipe wrenches 🔧 and nothing happened. He put it back in and waited 4 more days and the same result. My “adjustable” brake still won’t adjust to the off position.
I don’t know what to do next.
 
Hard choice, depends on your timeframe & how long it takes to get it back if you send it in.
If time is not an issue, send it back , if it is an issue, sell it.
I have a Bergara Ridgeback Premier in .300WM , its a bit heavy but I love it.
 

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Hard choice, depends on your timeframe & how long it takes to get it back if you send it in.
If time is not an issue, send it back , if it is an issue, sell it.
I have a Bergara Ridgeback Premier in .300WM , its a bit heavy but I love it.
Thanks for your input and sharing your cool rifle. I need to update everyone on my situation with this rifle.
Because I couldn’t find my box that had the LOP shims and cheek weld pieces which would make it hard to sell for a decent price, I decided to take it to a local gunsmith. He looked at it and after telling him about what we have tried we decided that it would be best to cut the barrel and rethread it. He is also going to put a side port brake on it for $275.
I felt hesitant about it and was thinking with the lack of 300 WSM ammo on the shelves (although I can reload and have enough brass and bullets, albeit it’s tough to find LR Magnum primers) that I should get a left hand 300 Win Mag or even 7 REM Mag.
But since I felt that it would be hard to sell and that I can reload and I still have some factory ammo, that I would just have it cut and rethreaded. Then eventually I can put a 30 cal suppressor on it.
 
That’s definitely a good idea as well especially since tags 🏷️, licenses and ammo are not cheap.
I applied for a muzzleloader hunt in Utah that I should draw so I won’t need the rifle for at least a year.
Sounds like you have a "Yeah, But" gun. Yeah it's a nice gun but there's this problem....

To me guns are tools. Since you have another rifle that does 80% of what the perfect rifle does, then use it and remember the reason for having rifles is to go hunting.
 
Sounds like you have a "Yeah, But" gun. Yeah it's a nice gun but there's this problem....

To me guns are tools. Since you have another rifle that does 80% of what the perfect rifle does, then use it and remember the reason for having rifles is to go hunting.
That’s the plan. To go hunting that is. I am getting the barrel cut and rethread with a side port brake put on. So eventually I’ll be able to put a suppressor on it. I don’t know how long it will take to do so. Based on how long it takes to get the brake in.
I have my .270 Win for hunting West Virginia and PA, etc… but I don’t have a straight wall cartridge rifle for Ohio where I am now a resident since last September
 
I think I saw a video by Erik Cortina showing him soaking his accurizer he sells in CLR, for say 10-20 mins. Find that video on Youtube under his name. I personally HATE brakes. They will give you a flinch from the muzzle blast if you don't use serious hearing protection, and I dont believe in using muffs or earplugs for hunting. You can't hear little sounds while hunting. And I shoot a 338 & 300 win mags. I'm a lefty, and have been looking at the Bergara lefties in various calibers. They run about $1000 and I hear great reviews about their accuracy. I have NOT held one in hand and seen the quality of the action or the stock. Once you remove the brake, you better check the POI. Brakes affect barrel harmonics. Food for thought, and strictly my opinion.
 
I think I saw a video by Erik Cortina showing him soaking his accurizer he sells in CLR, for say 10-20 mins. Find that video on Youtube under his name. I personally HATE brakes. They will give you a flinch from the muzzle blast if you don't use serious hearing protection, and I dont believe in using muffs or earplugs for hunting. You can't hear little sounds while hunting. And I shoot a 338 & 300 win mags. I'm a lefty, and have been looking at the Bergara lefties in various calibers. They run about $1000 and I hear great reviews about their accuracy. I have NOT held one in hand and seen the quality of the action or the stock. Once you remove the brake, you better check the POI. Brakes affect barrel harmonics. Food for thought, and strictly my opinion.
For where I hunt mostly in the big woods of West Virginia and PA the shots are close (sub 100 yards, mostly 75 yards and in) so I definitely don’t want a brake on my rifle for that scenario. I couldn’t take the brake off my 300 WSM with the “adjustable” brake that was stuck open. So I finally decided to have it cut off and a different brake put on that I can take off when I am hunting locally, but put it on for testing loads and for when I finally take it out west and actually have time to put ear protection in. I bought the Axil G2 ear buds that enhance my hearing but muffle the shot noise. That will help me until I get a suppressor and I will use them with my 270 Win of which I will never get threaded.
 
Howdy from Wv. Morgantown area.
Did you talk to someone at Savage about the brake issue.
I had 1 of those brakes on 1 of mine,
Talked to a tech at Savage Lefthand threads, 9/16×28.
Got it off and had MBM make me a muzzle brake.
Have you given it to a gunsmith to work on it. Fayette Gun Shop is a good one.
Hope this helps.
 

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