Selfbow from wind blown trees in Kalispell

[Clawsar]

This is a long shot but here goes. Kalispell got blown over on Sunday with many of the trees in downtown throwing branches and trunks around. We had a tall 80 foot elm (I think?) that came down on my truck and part of the house. As you drive through the neighborhoods it looks like a tornado hit.

Grasping for a silver lining, I’ve always wanted to make a self bow at some point and recently bought Clay Hayes book on the matter, but haven’t had a chance to read it yet. As there are huge pieces of trees around, here are my three questions:
1) is elm a decent wood for a bow? Also, how can I confirm this is an elm?
2) roughly what dimensions of the raw wood would I be looking for? I’ve see Clay make multiple staves from one log, and it looked maybe 6” around? I’m guessing at least 6’ in length and straight as can be?
3) I think the wood has to dry for a while, right? How long would be ideal?

If I can salvage any part of this mess I’d love to. I won’t be making anything immediately but it’s on my bucket list. There also seems a certain irony in making a bow from a tree (or at least the storm) that smashed my truck a bit. Thanks if anyone can help!

 

[Jim/Wa]

Elm will work. I’ve never made one from elm but I’ve used birch, sassafras, ash, etc. Most “white wood” self bows need to be wide and flat, not narrow and deep like yew or to a lesser extent Osage. The wood definitely needs to be dry and seasoned properly.

 

[Kaitum]

If it's elm, you can make a bow out of it. Not the most ideal bow wood but it'll work and it'll be good practice. Press some leaves flat and ask the city parks dept, they should have someone who will know.

Cut a log 6-7' long that is 6-8" in diameter. Bigger is ok but you'll want to split it lengthwise and that'll be easier said than done with elm as the grain is very interlocking in nature. Try to find a section with no knots or branches.

Once you cut the log, seal the cut ends quickly to prevent checking of the wood as it dries. Paint or lacquer will work. It'll probably need a good year to dry before you're ready to start making it into a bow. A moisture meter is best way to tell when it's ready but just plan on a full year.

The Bowyer's Bible series of books are another great resource.

Good luck!

 

[Dougfirtree]

The leaves say it's a maple. Most hardwoods can make a decent bow, but for your first one, you should endeavor to get a nice straight grained piece, free from knots, if possible. And some woods are just easier to work than others. The length of your stave depends a bit on how tall you are and what kind of bow you want. I'd cut a stave about as tall as you are. If it's a bigger log, split it into staves that are about 3" wide and 4 inches deep. That should cover you for whatever kind of bow you want to make. I've never read Clay's book, but The Bowyer's Bible volume 1 is a tremendous resource and many people have liked "The Bent Stick" by Paul Comstock. I was a slow learner and took a few tries to make a nice bow, but if you're careful and follow instructions, you can do it right off the bat. My wife made a real beauty on her first try.

 

[BuzzH]

Cant help you at all with the bow making...but, that's not an elm. Definitely a maple, possibly Norway Maple.

 

[Kaitum]

Cant help you at all with the bow making...but, that's not an elm. Definitely a maple, possibly Norway Maple.

Just looked at the leaves, I agree with Buzz. Yes, you can make a bow out of that.

 

[Jim/Wa]

Here’s an example of what I’m talking about. The wider bow is from hickory, the narrower from Osage.

 

[Clawsar]

Awesome! Thanks guys. And sorry for not having a clue on trees. I had always heard elm but couldn’t have guessed myself.

@Dougfirtree , you say to split it, but that’s after the drying for a year right?

Thanks again guys! I knew I had time to figure out what to do, but this seems like as good a time as any to get the wood in hand (on hood?)

 

[Kaitum]

You can split the log lengthwise after you cut it but before it dries, it'll help it dry faster. Just keep the ends sealed.

 

[Bulldog0156]

Buzz is correct on tree type. We have a lot of them in Kalispell. And a lot of them caused vehicle damage. Also, I know where you live.

 

[Dougfirtree]

Awesome! Thanks guys. And sorry for not having a clue on trees. I had always heard elm but couldn’t have guessed myself.

@Dougfirtree , you say to split it, but that’s after the drying for a year right?

Thanks again guys! I knew I had time to figure out what to do, but this seems like as good a time as any to get the wood in hand (on hood?)

split, then season. It'll take alot longer than a year if you don't.

 

[Fullquiver]

From experience I will say that you will need to make a barrel full of staves.. First time bowyers and untested wood especially wood that grew in the open and grew relatively fast will make a lot of firewood before you get a good bow out of a softer maple.. Just look at it this way if you get a bow out of the first 5-6 tries that will actually shoot more than a dozen arrows you are either blessed or a master bowyer in the making... It's a great way that you get to spend intimate time making kindling. Just don't be discouraged by your failures because it is part of the game... If it was easy everyone owuld be doing it...

Wood that grew in the middle of a forest and grew slow is best and wood from the outer rings is better than wood from the center at least in my experience.. (flatter grain and less knots plus less inner tension in the wood) I have only used osage or older growth cherry for bows and the cherry bow is now broken after a few years of service the osage bow I gave to my brother..

 

[Clawsar]

Thank you everyone. If I should split it then dry it, how much should I try and split? Get the 6-8” log in quarters?

Thanks, I’m digging through the pile tonight.

 

[timberman56]

Here’s an example of what I’m talking about. The wider bow is from hickory, the narrower from Osage. nice bows - I've got that same NWTF print hanging in my denView attachment 142496View attachment 142497

 

[Fullquiver]

Thank you everyone. If I should split it then dry it, how much should I try and split? Get the 6-8” log in quarters?

Thanks, I’m digging through the pile tonight.

I wouldn't split it into quarters. Take a look at the grain in the bows in the picture above... You need the flattest possible layering of the growth rings to lie in the direction of the face of the bow with the cupped inner growth rings on the inside if this makes sense.. by splitting the log into quarters you won't end up with that especially with smaller logs.. Imagine concentric circles of growth in the tree and then imagine that you want to split the log in half then the center section of the half to make the bow out of... Just trying to shorten your curve for you...

 

[Ben Long]

I suggest you reach out to Brent Holmquist at Ravenwood. He's on the internet. He is a master bushcraft guy here in the Flathead Valley. This is his busy time of year but he can help point you to some local selfbow craftsmen. I know there are some in town but I cannot remember their names. (I suffer from CRS). (Can't Remember Shit.)

 

[SAJ-99]

Here’s an example of what I’m talking about. The wider bow is from hickory, the narrower from Osage. View attachment 142496View attachment 142497

The guy in the picture didn't check his bubble!

 

[ZBB]

Judging from the picture it doesn’t look like there’s a straight piece in there, that would be long enough for a longer bow. I could be wrong though. Anyway, if it isn’t straight the grain might become a problem. I’ve tried making 5-6 bows from staves and it’s a real bitch. BUT, my patients and temper fail long before the wood does, which has happened 100% of the time with stave bows.

If you split it up, while you’re waiting for it to dry, you could always try your hand at a board bow. I’ve made those out of oak backed with the mesh drywall tape, and another out of hickory. I felt like the board bows helped me with learning how to tiller and watch the grain of the wood.

Then I said f$&k it and started making glass laminated bows. Way easier I think. But I love to tinker so ymmv. Clay Hayes has some pretty good videos on YouTube also. Good luck

 

[TreeDog]

100% Norway Maple. Lumber falls into soft maple category so if you can make a bow out of that, your good to go. Seems like all of the city trees in Kalispell are maple or ash. Ash would be a good choice if a neighbor has one down.

 

[longbow51]

Lots of winter-killed ash in Montana this year with the very early sub-zero weather. You should be able to find one if you ask around.