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Scope Ring Honing

ive got that same wheeler scope honing setup and think its a good idea so it doesnt bind the scope in any ways,,ive never had issues,,im a firm believer in using the{fat wrench} torque wrench on all the screws to proper specs
 
I lap just the bottom/ base rings and NOT the tops...I lap them lightly with clover 400 and torque with a proto dial type wrench...no problems even with heavy recoiling cartridges.
 
I oversized a set of 30mm Leupold rings once by lapping them too much to get my pointers to line up perfectly….

Top ring was flush with 0 gap when I set it down on top of the scope and torqued it down.

Lesson learned. Lol Oops
 
I oversized a set of 30mm Leupold rings once by lapping them too much to get my pointers to line up perfectly….

Top ring was flush with 0 gap when I set it down on top of the scope and torqued it down.

Lesson learned. Lol Oops
The Burris rings came with some "friction paper" that measures out to just under .005" .... maybe that would help you out?

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Lets be fair .... you were the one that moved the conversation to "lapping". All I was asking is for those that have "lapped" in any scope rings if there was any negative results. I don't have any concerns so to speak of other than I like things to fit properly.
Lets leave it at that.

I'm a retired Tool Designer and worked in a shop that dealt with tolerances that most places would not deal with or be able to achieve. I acquired a penchant for precision fits as a result of that.
Remington actions are/were mass produced usually [I'm guessing] CNC equipment. So what do you think it might add costwise and timewise to produce actions that are within "blueprint" specs? Such actions should pretty much align right on the gnat's a$s with scope bases and mounts, assuming the smith who barrels it does his job correctly. My understanding is that CNC work is somewhat dependent on the skill of the operator.
 
Bedding bases and/or rings is another way to get everything lined up and making even contact with rings. I’ve never bothered with rings but have done pic rails that didn’t mate perfectly with an action.
 
If you are dealing with older actions that aren't perfectly true, you risk:

Not having a firm grip on the scope and it may move over time or come loose.

If the bottom rings aren't true and square to each other, a lip or sharp spot can crease, kink, dent (damage) your scope tube. Lapping can true up the "bedding" area for your scope. You might be more cautious about this if you are mounting a spendy $$$-$$$$ scope.

The top ring caps have play in them and should clamp down square and uniform.
These shouldn't need lapped because you bought quality rings.
 
Remington actions are/were mass produced usually [I'm guessing] CNC equipment. So what do you think it might add costwise and timewise to produce actions that are within "blueprint" specs? Such actions should pretty much align right on the gnat's a$s with scope bases and mounts, assuming the smith who barrels it does his job correctly. My understanding is that CNC work is somewhat dependent on the skill of the operator.
Tolerances are the key word here. Even with CNC machines, if your fixture is out of alignment, worn, loose, old....then everything you do on that fixture will be off by some degree. I see scope base holes that are off, some just a little, some off by up to .010" side to side, which is going to eat up all your windage adjustments. I have yet to find a Remington 700 with a square front receiver ring after it has been properly dialed in on my lathe. So, I don't have a lot of faith in Factory receivers as a matter of trusting it is square and true. Same can be said for most scope rings and bases. When the cost goes up, it does tend to get better, but not always. Those cheap Weaver rings will hold a scope, but I sure would not bet a $10K guided hunt on them, lapped or not.
 
Tolerances are the key word here. Even with CNC machines, if your fixture is out of alignment, worn, loose, old....then everything you do on that fixture will be off by some degree. I see scope base holes that are off, some just a little, some off by up to .010" side to side, which is going to eat up all your windage adjustments. I have yet to find a Remington 700 with a square front receiver ring after it has been properly dialed in on my lathe. So, I don't have a lot of faith in Factory receivers as a matter of trusting it is square and true. Same can be said for most scope rings and bases. When the cost goes up, it does tend to get better, but not always. Those cheap Weaver rings will hold a scope, but I sure would not bet a $10K guided hunt on them, lapped or not.
It should be the operator's responsibility to see that his fixture is properly maintained and his tooling like drill bits, etc. is properly sharpened unless quantity slop over quality work is deemed good enough. Why couldn't Remington even get the handle properly soldered to the bolt body such that one had the necessary primary extraction? I have 3 of the Remington 700 stainless RR series actions and all 3 needed bolt handle repositioning.
 
It should be the operator's responsibility to see that his fixture is properly maintained and his tooling like drill bits, etc. is properly sharpened unless quantity slop over quality work is deemed good enough. Why couldn't Remington even get the handle properly soldered to the bolt body such that one had the necessary primary extraction? I have 3 of the Remington 700 stainless RR series actions and all 3 needed bolt handle repositioning.
I would say that most of those fixtures never come out of the machine unless the QC shop tells them to check their setups. That ain't gonna happen if it shuts down production for more than a few minutes...if you have run production you know the drill.
 
I'm guessing they would have several machines running same product and exercising "in process quality control" (IPQC)?
 
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Screw dia is .005 under and the mounts will have mounting slots that are .010 over; hotdog down a hallway. The scope axis and action axis are never parallel.
 
I oversized a set of 30mm Leupold rings once by lapping them too much to get my pointers to line up perfectly….

Top ring was flush with 0 gap when I set it down on top of the scope and torqued it down.

Lesson learned. Lol Oops
This is easily solved also. A couple of strokes of the flat bottoms and tops of the ring halves on 200 grit laid over a hard flat platen to remove the machining marks. This will tighten everything right up.

I have a sweet 12" square of flat basalt for leather tooling that works great for this.
 
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