old man
Active member
Am reloading once fired cases from this rifle and resized with total length the same as those factory loads, yet some will not chamber.primer seating is fine.Any thoughts?
Reloading problem.
- Thread starter old man
- Start date
AggieOutlaw
Active member
- Joined
- May 22, 2016
- Messages
- 534
Did you check the headspace with a gauge after resizing? Did you trim the case?
Bambistew
Well-known member
Turn the die down another 1/4-1/2 turn, until they chamber. It's hanging up on the shoulder
The brass has already been fired from the rifle you’re trying to chamber it in? Chances are the bullet is seated out too far. The overall length may be the same but if it is a different shaped bullet, it may be making contact with the rifling. Color one with a sharpie and try to chamber it and look for scuff marks on the bullet.
FAIR CHASE
Well-known member
Yes, you are very likely not bumping the shoulder back enough but rather than "turning the die down 1/4-1/2 turn" or turn the die down "a little more", learn to do it the right way and using the right method(s) so you understand how to reload properly. Its not rocket surgery.
old man
Active member
Yes i believe the shoulder is the problem but how do i fix it?
I had this problem using an old Lyman die and an RCBS shell holder. They would be tight as hell in my .243. Went to a Redding die and the problem was solved.
Standard adjustment is raise the ram, screw die in until it touches the shell holder, back off ram and tighten 1/4 turn. It takes a little pressure and you feel the lever "cam over" as the shell holder touches the bottom of the die. Even doing this with the previously mentioned Lyman die, I was still having issues.
Standard adjustment is raise the ram, screw die in until it touches the shell holder, back off ram and tighten 1/4 turn. It takes a little pressure and you feel the lever "cam over" as the shell holder touches the bottom of the die. Even doing this with the previously mentioned Lyman die, I was still having issues.
old man
Active member
I have reloaded thousands or rounds but never had this kind of problem.this is the rifle that also will not fire factory ammo worth a dam.
Lefty315
Active member
Are you putting any lube on the inside of the neck? I've had a few in the past that really hung up on the downward stroke which I believe actually might have stretched the case a bit.
FAIR CHASE
Well-known member
What do yo mean by will not fire factory ammo worth a dam?
One would hope that, regardless of using lube or not, the reloader would measure case length and trim as needed.
FAIR CHASE
Well-known member
The advise given regarding simply turning the die down a bit is the way to bump the should back so that that the round will chamber. I merely meant that it is a good idea to understand the "whys" and learn how to measure shoulder setback. For best accuracy, you want to "bump" the shoulders the minimum amount for the round to chamber to extend the case life and get the best possible accuracy. Unless you have a sloppy chamber and/or are using hot loads, full length sizing is not required after every reloading. BUT, if you only care about making the round chamber and nothing else ........ take an empty case and using a FL die, continue to turn the die down in 1/16 turn increments until the case feeds with little to no bolt resistance.
old man
Active member
no better than 3 in groups with fed, browning,and sako 180 gr. ammo.
FAIR CHASE
Well-known member
OK, guessing a 30 cal of some flavor but knowing more specifics such as make/model of rifle, scope/rings, did the rifle ever shoot near 1 MOA, your level of shooting, etc would help a lot.
old man
Active member
New Sako finn light in 300 wm. and only shot one load accurately by gun smith who dosn't no exactly which load it was.(the gun smith does work for Sako.) Leupole scope and rings, i can hit the bull at 200 yards standing freehand with my rugger 308 .
old man
Active member
Some will and some will not.
If they will not seat without a bullet, you are not sizing them correctly. I would seat a bullet in a case that will chamber to verify you have an acceptable seating depth. I’d also invest in a shoulder bump gauge to verify how much you are sizing your brass. You will sometimes see the the shoulder get bumped forward if your die isn’t set up correctly
old man
Active member
What bump gauge do you suggest?
Speeddmn
Active member
fastest method to figure out if a case issue or a bullet issue, take a sharpie and color the bullet and the shoulder. Load the round, and try to chamber, then open the bolt and look. If the marker is rubbed off the shoulder, then you need to bumper that back during the sizing, if rubbed off the bullet and not the shoulder, seat the bullet a tad deeper until you and chamber it.
I've never had issue with fired brass in said rifle for what I am loading (fired from same rifle I am loading for). I have run into issue of not seating the bullet enough for a friend 243 when we changed up the projectile. Just had to re-measure and then adjust seating depth a tad.
I've never had issue with fired brass in said rifle for what I am loading (fired from same rifle I am loading for). I have run into issue of not seating the bullet enough for a friend 243 when we changed up the projectile. Just had to re-measure and then adjust seating depth a tad.
