Recurve Shooting

[mevertsen]

An area 151 to 156 archery deer tag in my pocket here in NV.

Shooting every day with the recurve.
Redemption here we come.

 

[ammo]

oops.

tripped and fell and ended up with this on my lunch hour today.

 

[Fire_9]

View attachment 225333

oops.

tripped and fell and ended up with this on my lunch hour today.

From RMS I hope…

 

[ammo]

From RMS I hope…

Yes indeed! Great spot.

 

[Buck Fever NW]

Would be interested to hear preferences on shooting split-finger ("traditional"?) vs. 3 fingers under, or other? Haven't shot my Martin recurve in quite a while but thinking about dusting it off. In the past, I had gone back and forth to find out which I might do better with and on some days I would shoot much with one but then other days the opposite would work better. I know it's ideal to stay consistent and try to do everything the same every time in terms of anchor point, release, follow through etc. so just curious what experiences/advice others may have.

Kind of the same with aiming instinctive vs. gap etc., was hard to settle on one, lol. Probably just needed more practice I guess!

 

[Firedude]

Would be interested to hear preferences on shooting split-finger ("traditional"?) vs. 3 fingers under, or other? Haven't shot my Martin recurve in quite a while but thinking about dusting it off. In the past, I had gone back and forth to find out which I might do better with and on some days I would shoot much with one but then other days the opposite would work better. I know it's ideal to stay consistent and try to do everything the same every time in terms of anchor point, release, follow through etc. so just curious what experiences/advice others may have.

Kind of the same with aiming instinctive vs. gap etc., was hard to settle on one, lol. Probably just needed more practice I guess!

So as far as 3 under or split finger you need to see what your bow was designed to be shot. I know, sounds crazy. When we build bows we account for your style of shooting.

Here's the Reader's Digest version. The center of the bow should be approximatly where the gap between your index and thumb are when gripping. (We fudge that if requested to palm but I'm staying basic here) When you pull back on the string you should be pulling at center to get the most out of your bow. The arrow is slightly above center. If you put a finger over the arrow I need to account for that and adjust the shelf down a tiny bit from 3 under. We adjust for grip and string hold when building. If you don't know what your bow was built for just measure from shelf to throat of grip. Then measure to center of string. An arrow perpendicular to the string vs this point will tell you.

Most commercial recurves are 3 under. If the shelf is barely over your hand holding the riser it could be split finger. Either way consistency is king. But if you shoot a bow the way it was designed it will be easier to be consistent.

Good question!

 

[ZBB]

So as far as 3 under or split finger you need to see what your bow was designed to be shot. I know, sounds crazy. When we build bows we account for your style of shooting.

Here's the Reader's Digest version. The center of the bow should be approximatly where the gap between your index and thumb are when gripping. (We fudge that if requested to palm gut I'm staying basic here) When you pull back on the string you should be pulling at center to get the most out of your bow. The arrow is slightly above center. If you put a finger over the arrow I need to amount for that and adjust the shelf down a tiny bit from 3 under. We adjust for grip and string hold when building. If you don't know what your bow was built for just measure from shelf to throat of grip. Then measure to center of string. An arrow perpendicular to the string vs this point will tell you.

Is there a reason you adjust the shelf instead of tiller? The bows I’ve made I use the tiller of the limb, 1/8” difference for split finger. I’ve always wondered if most people are consistent enough to see the difference.
Edit to add, I build glass laminated take down bows and that was what I found in everything I read. Just curious.

 

[Firedude]

Is there a reason you adjust the shelf instead of tiller? The bows I’ve made I use the tiller of the limb, 1/8” difference for split finger. I’ve always wondered if most people are consistent enough to see the difference. You can do both.

Is there a reason you adjust the shelf instead of tiller? The bows I’ve made I use the tiller of the limb, 1/8” difference for split finger. I’ve always wondered if most people are consistent enough to see the difference.
Edit to add, I build glass laminated take down bows and that was what I found in everything I read. Just curious.

I will do either or both honestly. I was just trying to keep it simple.

Edit. I had to think for a second. If your riser design is modifiable it's a good way to go. If it's not tiller is a good way to go. Either way most bows I've sold get that last tweeking. People look at you weird when your sanding a brand new bow after they shoot it.... tends to make people nervous. But that's how you make it custom I guess.

 

[Buck Fever NW]

So as far as 3 under or split finger you need to see what your bow was designed to be shot. I know, sounds crazy. When we build bows we account for your style of shooting.

Here's the Reader's Digest version. The center of the bow should be approximatly where the gap between your index and thumb are when gripping. (We fudge that if requested to palm but I'm staying basic here) When you pull back on the string you should be pulling at center to get the most out of your bow. The arrow is slightly above center. If you put a finger over the arrow I need to account for that and adjust the shelf down a tiny bit from 3 under. We adjust for grip and string hold when building. If you don't know what your bow was built for just measure from shelf to throat of grip. Then measure to center of string. An arrow perpendicular to the string vs this point will tell you.

Most commercial recurves are 3 under. If the shelf is barely over your hand holding the riser it could be split finger. Either way consistency is king. But if you shoot a bow the way it was designed it will be easier to be consistent.

Good question!

Great, thank you for the info FD, that's very helpful. It's just a basic entry level type commercial bow, Martin "X-200", so maybe 3 under but I will take measurements as you suggest and see. 3 under seemed to work best overall for me so hopefully that is the case. For an inexpensive bow, I had been pretty impressed with it and got pretty decent out to 15 yards but going to 20 yards it became much more challenging.

I have two different sets of carbon "Gold Tip" arrows w/ feather fletchings (lighter for targets and heavier for hunting). I can shoot the target ones fairly well but don't feel as confident with the heavier ones so still work to do in that area (would like to transition to wooden at some point). The couple of times I elk hunted with it I got to within roughly 20-25yds of shot opportunities. I loosed an arrow the first time and the arrow was perfectly in line with the vitals but dropped below the brisket right at the end of the arc. Was very grateful for a clean miss. The second time I decided ahead of time that 15 yds would be my max range and passed on a shot as I couldn't get closer in that situation (lots of fun though!).

I sort of took a pause after that as my son was getting old enough to hunt so have spent most of my time focusing on his (rifle) hunts but am thinking I will get back into it again. I won't be hunting big game with it though until I have my tackle in order and have become more proficient in shooting. Even then I may still limit myself to 15 yds or less. Maybe some rabbits/grouse with a judo point though. Thanks again for the info!

 

[Firedude]

Just glancing at it I would start shooting 3 under. Especially if your using any kind of rest.

Most of us learned on longbow. Arrow on top of the hand split is very appropriate. Recurves with a shelf the arrow sits higher so 3 under works better. Physics just says go with it. As ZBB mentioned it can still be tillered for split but hardly any commercial bow is. Bows can be adjusted for your style to a point.

If you want some reading material buy, "the traditional bowyers Bible." It gets into more detail. You'll be surprised when you get your form and bow prefomance working in tune. I watched a 60 year old lady consistently sink an arrow in a soup can size group at 50 yards. With a recurve with a pin site. Her husband was the bowyer that taught me.

 

[Hawk Tuah]

So as far as 3 under or split finger you need to see what your bow was designed to be shot. I know, sounds crazy. When we build bows we account for your style of shooting.

Here's the Reader's Digest version. The center of the bow should be approximatly where the gap between your index and thumb are when gripping. (We fudge that if requested to palm but I'm staying basic here) When you pull back on the string you should be pulling at center to get the most out of your bow. The arrow is slightly above center. If you put a finger over the arrow I need to account for that and adjust the shelf down a tiny bit from 3 under. We adjust for grip and string hold when building. If you don't know what your bow was built for just measure from shelf to throat of grip. Then measure to center of string. An arrow perpendicular to the string vs this point will tell you.

Most commercial recurves are 3 under. If the shelf is barely over your hand holding the riser it could be split finger. Either way consistency is king. But if you shoot a bow the way it was designed it will be easier to be consistent.

Good question!

You obviously know what the hell you're talking about. I knew none of this. I got a recurve 7-8 years ago. The only things I've shot with it are out of trees above my hounds...so in very controlled situations and less than 20 yards.

Do you happen to know if a Samick Sage is a three under design?

 

[BrentD]

You obviously know what the hell you're talking about. I knew none of this. I got a recurve 7-8 years ago. The only things I've shot with it are out of trees above my hounds...so in very controlled situations and less than 20 yards.

Do you happen to know if a Samick Sage is a three under design?

I've been shooting recurves for over 50 yrs and I ain't heard of it either. I regularly switch from split to 3 under and back. The bow doesn't care. My shooting always improves too.

 

[Firedude]

I've been shooting recurves for over 50 yrs and I ain't heard of it either. I regularly switch from split to 3 under and back. The bow doesn't care. My shooting always improves too.

So.... Reader's Digest version vs. Years of experience. It's a, "you gotta learn why to understand why the old boys don't do it that way." Kind of thing. You learn the rules to learn what circumstances you can break the rules.

Yep. You can compensate for almost anything with a bow if you know the why's. But the middle experience group needs the coaching to advance beyond. You probably are compensating well and don't even know it... bravo.

Bow physics are like training wheels... you need them until you don't. Then you wonder WTF! Then you understand uwhy that guy made you baby step.

Just knowing your background it's like muzzleloading. There's sort of rules until you get good then you can break them and do better because you understand why those initial rules were there.... Makes sense-ish. Like twist rate vs grains vs caliber. Then you can expound once you grasp why you start where you do... and some guys can sneak through without any knowledge or coaching and bullseye just from experience... you sound like one of those.

 

[Firedude]

You obviously know what the hell you're talking about. I knew none of this. I got a recurve 7-8 years ago. The only things I've shot with it are out of trees above my hounds...so in very controlled situations and less than 20 yards.

Do you happen to know if a Samick Sage is a three under design?

I don't honestly. I know most commercial recurves should be 3 under.

Think of a recurve as a spring. You bend in the middle vs up a little or low a little. Even spring equals equal throw. Adjusting a little is fine either way. Bows are pretty dang forgiving if you know where you need some give.

 

[Firedude]

Here is an example. Laid it out on the kitchen tile for griding. See the throat vs the string grip. 3 under obviously. Arrow is high. But pulled center bow vs center string you get great efficiency. The spring shoots back evenly.

 

[Firedude]

As long as you were 100% constantly shooting the same way you could grip here. But you can visualize the inefficiency of doing so. This is an EXTREME example. Limbs bend unevenly, throw is off, arrow wants to bounce off the shelf.

That being said, there are people who do just that and are very very good at it. Like string walk archers. Yes it's gripping lower but you get the idea

 

[Buck Fever NW]

Just glancing at it I would start shooting 3 under. Especially if your using any kind of rest.

Most of us learned on longbow. Arrow on top of the hand split is very appropriate. Recurves with a shelf the arrow sits higher so 3 under works better. Physics just says go with it. As ZBB mentioned it can still be tillered for split but hardly any commercial bow is. Bows can be adjusted for your style to a point.

If you want some reading material buy, "the traditional bowyers Bible." It gets into more detail. You'll be surprised when you get your form and bow prefomance working in tune. I watched a 60 year old lady consistently sink an arrow in a soup can size group at 50 yards. With a recurve with a pin site. Her husband was the bowyer that taught me.

Thanks FD, I'll stick with 3 under then. I have a book called "Traditional Archery" but not the Bowyer's Bible, will look for it though. Wow! That's impressive, 50 yds! Thanks again.

 

[Cheesehead]

From a traditional greenhorn:

Fingers three under
Will bring the thunder
When fingers they split
My aim goes to shit

 

[longbow51]

Black Widow bows standard tiller is for split finger. If you want to shoot 3 fingers under, just raise nocking point a bit per their FAQ.

 

[BrentD]

I do t believe I ever saw FredBear with anything but split fingers. I assume his bows (thus mine) are made for same.

Could be wrong though. It's not an issue I have pursued much