Recurve advice for elk.

[Longbowelk]

Bob Lee invented the 3 piece takedown. I am personal friends with he and son Rob who currently owns and builds custom recurve. I think it is www.bobleebows.com
Jacksonville, Tx. As stated by others, I would find a used one to mess around with before spending a lot of money on a custom. Go to bowsite.com forum and click over to traditional archery or go direct to stickbow.com. Real good forum for used bows, all the advice from some old timers .
As far as bowweight dont get hung up on thinking you need 60 pounds. It's best to have a comfortable weight you can shoot 25 to 30 practice shots daily without tiring and getting into bad form. I have shot 2 elk with 46 and 47 lb Bob Lee recurves. Both arrows buried to the fetching. One cow, the other a nice 5x6 bull at 30 yards. The key is a fairly heavy 2 blade steel broad head. I use a 130 gr Grizzly head. I don't use the fancy razor blade modern heads. Want more info just let me know. It's fun to shoot recurves...

 

[shb]

Start with a lower draw weight 40lbs, this shortens the learning curve by leaps, and bounds.

Dont get caught up in the instinctive shooting nonsense. This screws up more people than it helps.


Develop a simple repeatable form.


3 under is your friend.


Dont worry about customs till you know what you like.


Hang out at the practice range at a 3D shoot. I haven't met anyone yet who wouldn't let me try their bow.

 

[shb]

Well there are a bunch of ways to go on this topic. I have a few recurves that I've shot over the years. I'm a huge fan of Earl Hoyt and the bows he made. Used to hang out with Ann and Earl back in the day. Great people for sure. Spent a few days at his factory watching his guys make limbs. Kind of interesting.

Since you want to use a recurve I would find one that you like where you can change out limbs. I've got a Sky bow that Earl made that I have 4 sets of limbs and 2 risers. I have 2 sets of light limbs and 2 sets of heavy limbs. I would suggest starting out really light (45# if you are new to longbows and recurves) and building up your form (fingers) and strength with the lighter weight and then add weight as needed. You can add weight fairly fast once you get everything else correct and strong. My lighter bow is at about 55# at my draw. Heavier is 65#. I've always shot 2317's out of it and they fly great. I've killed 3 elk with a recurve and 2317's. I would really consider using a carbon arrow if I was going to do it again. One of the keys to shooting good with a recurve is to do it often. You probably won't be able to shoot a bunch of shots in one day but it would be good if you could shoot 4-6 days a week for at least the prior 12 months if you want to be effective. It takes some time to get to the point where you are comfortable with a recurve. Once you are there then it gets pretty easy.

Finding someone that is proficient with a recurve that is willing to help you learn might be a good thing too. I learned from some really good archers and it has helped a ton.

Never never pass up an opportunity to acquire an original SKY Hawk takedown recurve. One of the best bows ever made.



Ever!

 

[Longbowelk]

Not to argue, but I have been shooting instinctive for 40+ years. I agree with using a 40# bow to get started and work on form. I shot completely through a whitetail with my same broadhead/arrow set up for elk.

 

[SWhunter]

I appreciate the advice sir. I am getting ready to get a used one to start out on. I have not shot instinct since I was a young hunter many years ago. I do have one question for you. You mention a fairly heavy 2 blade broadhead. Why is that? Do they perform better than a 3 or 4 blade on a recurve? I appreciate the advice. I killed by bull last month here in NM with my compound. I had several opportunities that would have been ethical with a recurve.

 

[Longbowelk]

I appreciate the advice sir. I am getting ready to get a used one to start out on. I have not shot instinct since I was a young hunter many years ago. I do have one question for you. You mention a fairly heavy 2 blade broadhead. Why is that? Do they perform better than a 3 or 4 blade on a recurve? I appreciate the advice. I killed by bull last month here in NM with my compound. I had several opportunities that would have been ethical with a recurve.

I used to shoot a 50# recurve back in my younger days. Over time as we age we lose muscle. I was 64 when I shot my bull in 2015 with my 47# recurve at 30 yards. I had dropped my bow weight years ago due to being weak from back surgery around my neck area. Lots of bow hunters get hung up on way too much bow weight. Most that come over from compounds say at 70# think they need 60+. Compounds and traditional archery are totally different. The key with recurves and longbow is a fairly heavy arrow and 2 blade steel head. I can weigh one of my hunting arrows and give you that later. I shoot a 29" traditional Gold tip carbon 35/55. They look like wood. I use a full length screw in broadhead adapter. Not sure if the Grizzly head is still available but I use those at 125 to 130. The adapter weighs 32 to 45 depending on mfg. That puts the head at 160 to 190. I also use 4" feathers. I shot through a chronograph and I think I was getting 160 fps. I may have to look back as that may be wrong. I know it was less than 200. I buried my shaft to the fleching on the bull. You dont have to blow all the way through. I see comments that 3 or 4 blades leave more blood trails. These options will cut your penetration down. More later. Gotta take a call. Glad to help you. I can send you some pics or I can post a video.

 

[MEG2]

My 1st recurve was a used one piece 60” Bear Kodiak @ 55#. It was smooth and fit me perfectly so I shot it extremely well. Wanting something with more speed I sold that bow to buy a faster used custom made bow that I never really cared for and didn’t shoot as well. Got rid of that one. Came across a used 60” Robertson Stykbow Montana Falcon at 58#. Have had it probably 20 years now and really enjoy shooting it. I’ve always wanted a Black Widow and found a good used 60” MA2 with 62# limbs. I have been learning to shoot it. It feels different than other bows I have shot but it is growing on me as I am getting use to it.

So my advise is to shoot several and find the one that feels the best for you. When you have one that feels right and fits, there is nothing sweeter and more fun to shoot. Custom mades are harder to “test drive”, but finding a quality take down that you can have 2 sets of limbs is an option. Just realize that it’s going to take a lot of practice to become efficient and build confidence.

 

[Pmringer]

I started out with a Samick Sage at 45 lbs. I have a long draw at nearly 32" and need a long bow or a properly built bow that can deal with a long draw. After working on form with that Samick I tried a couple shorter hybrid longbows, then a nice Striker longbow, then a Bob Lee 3 piece recurve and finally settled on a Big Stick since Bob builds bows with long draw in mind. Echoing what others said, get the form down at lower poundage then once you are comfortable think about a quality bow. I started shooting split and switched to three under and it greatly improved everything about my shot. I shoot a combo of instinctive and gap and find that generally it more gap shooting. The tip of your arrow is your friend once you know how to utilize it. Just as important, if not more than the bow is the arrow. Good tune and nice sharp broadheads are key. Get those dialed and learn the aspects of tuning a trad bow then worry about looking at bowyers for your first nice bow. Shoot as many bows as you can to figure out what you like. I tried a ton and am definitely a one piece longbow guy.

 

[Clawsar]

I also have a sammick sage as my first and only recurve. I love shooting it (55#) but haven’t dedicated to it for hunting yet. I’m really toying with the idea next year. For the price, they are a great bow to learn on and try lots of things out.
Also, my coworker shot mine for a while and eventually bought his own with much lighter limbs. He was smart about his arrow though and bought shafts that could work for either bow weight with different weight field points. This lets him have lots of arrows at the ready but not be out money if he decides to increase weight.

 

[buffybr]

My one and only elk kill with a bow was a 5x5 bull that I shot in Colorado in 1973 with a 55# Herter's recurve bow, fiberglass arrow, and Bear insert broadhead. It was a DIY, solo, spot and stalk hunt with a 10 yard shot.

Back then they didn't have sights for bows, so it was totally instinctive shooting.

As in any other hunting with a bow ore firearm, the key to success is practice, parctice, and more practice.

 

[yacantski]

I had my heart set on a particular bow and went to rocky mountain specialty gear to pick it up.They have a massive selection of bows and I ended up shooting over twenty bows and was surprised at how different they shot, ended up picking a different bow. So my suggestion is to shoot as many bows as you can, you'll know when you find the right one.

 

[Pmringer]

I'd also recommend purchasing Tom Clum Sr.'s course on the Push Archery online school. It is well worth the money for new and veteran shooters.

 

[SWhunter]

I used to shoot a 50# recurve back in my younger days. Over time as we age we lose muscle. I was 64 when I shot my bull in 2015 with my 47# recurve at 30 yards. I had dropped my bow weight years ago due to being weak from back surgery around my neck area. Lots of bow hunters get hung up on way too much bow weight. Most that come over from compounds say at 70# think they need 60+. Compounds and traditional archery are totally different. The key with recurves and longbow is a fairly heavy arrow and 2 blade steel head. I can weigh one of my hunting arrows and give you that later. I shoot a 29" traditional Gold tip carbon 35/55. They look like wood. I use a full length screw in broadhead adapter. Not sure if the Grizzly head is still available but I use those at 125 to 130. The adapter weighs 32 to 45 depending on mfg. That puts the head at 160 to 190. I also use 4" feathers. I shot through a chronograph and I think I was getting 160 fps. I may have to look back as that may be wrong. I know it was less than 200. I buried my shaft to the fleching on the bull. You dont have to blow all the way through. I see comments that 3 or 4 blades leave more blood trails. These options will cut your penetration down. More later. Gotta take a call. Glad to help you. I can send you some pics or I can post a video.

Sounds good. I appreciate the advice.

 

[SWhunter]

I'd also recommend purchasing Tom Clum Sr.'s course on the Push Archery online school. It is well worth the money for new and veteran shooters.

I will check it out. Is it specific to long bows and recurves. I took the "school of nock" a few months ago my shooting really improved.

 

[Pmringer]

I will check it out. Is it specific to long bows and recurves. I took the "school of nock" a few months ago my shooting really improved.

It’s specific to traditional archery. Kind of a game changer.

 

[wayner]

To my mind you need to find what style of recurve you want, are you looking at a modern take down or one piece or something like the older 50's style slimmer limb smaller grip and riser? I would say go to a shop or bowyer you can handle them and see what grip style you like. As others said ideally you want a lower draw weight till you get good form then go to a hunting weight. I found that 50# was ok for me but ideally you want less so you are comfortable, once you get a bad habit it is hard to correct.
if you know what style and grip you want look out for a second hand one which will be cheaper,regards wayne

 

[SWhunter]

To my mind you need to find what style of recurve you want, are you looking at a modern take down or one piece or something like the older 50's style slimmer limb smaller grip and riser? I would say go to a shop or bowyer you can handle them and see what grip style you like. As others said ideally you want a lower draw weight till you get good form then go to a hunting weight. I found that 50# was ok for me but ideally you want less so you are comfortable, once you get a bad habit it is hard to correct.
if you know what style and grip you want look out for a second hand one which will be cheaper,regards wayne

Thanks Sir, Going to go to few shops and see what style is comfortable. I know what you mean about bad habits. I was never taught how to shot a bow about 30 years ago when I started. I got some professional instruction last year and it was a game changer with consistency!