New setup

[fmnjr]

As expensive as arrows are, it would seem that making them florescent might keep them from disappearing. Anyone here doing this?

 

[Indianajoe]

some people call me less manly but I use pink fletching. I seem to be able to find that color easily.

 

[fmnjr]

some people call me less manly but I use pink fletching. I seem to be able to find that color easily.

Mine have pink too, with a white one for the orientation.

 

[rogerthat]

Rotated through a wide sample of broadheads over 1.5 hour period of shooting. Midway, we stopped and did some paper tuning. Up to that point, shots were consistently pulling left 6-8 inches. After tuning, things improved but still have a ways to go.

Sounds to me like you just need to broadhead tune your bow. At least that’s what I call it. You need to be shooting very consistently for this to work. Your broadheads and your field points should hit in the same group when you’re done. I like to use a big ugly fixed head for broadhead tuning. Basically you just adjust your rest or nocking point based off the difference in poi of your broadheads and field points. It’s in the Easton tuning manual

 

[fmnjr]

After trying the shop's broadheads and having no luck, decided to buy some to try on my own. Results are shown below in photos. Shots were cold, too. Shots with bottom-left orientation are Slick Tricks and Montecs, 100gr. Right orientation shots are field points. The BL shots mimic more or less what happened at the shop indoor range. It seems like the best option is to tune the bow for the broadheads when hunting, and re-tune for field points when practicing. I'm open for other suggestions that may work.

 

[fmnjr]

Sounds to me like you just need to broadhead tune your bow. At least that’s what I call it. You need to be shooting very consistently for this to work. Your broadheads and your field points should hit in the same group when you’re done. I like to use a big ugly fixed head for broadhead tuning. Basically you just adjust your rest or nocking point based off the difference in poi of your broadheads and field points. It’s in the Easton tuning manual

The tuning manual is a great suggestion! I'll pick a copy up, thanks!

 

[rogerthat]

The tuning manual is a great suggestion! I'll pick a copy up, thanks!

I think you can just google it and get it electronic version

Edit: google broadhead tuning. Lots of good articles. When you’re done your broadheads will hit with your field points. Remember make very small adjustments or you will blow by your perfect tune.

 

[fmnjr]

Yes I just found out thanks

 

[Mighty Mouse]

After trying the shop's broadheads and having no luck, decided to buy some to try on my own. Results are shown below in photos. Shots were cold, too. Shots with bottom-left orientation are Slick Tricks and Montecs, 100gr. Right orientation shots are field points. The BL shots mimic more or less what happened at the shop indoor range. It seems like the best option is to tune the bow for the broadheads when hunting, and re-tune for field points when practicing. I'm open for other suggestions that may work.

To fix broadheads hitting left of field points, either shift your rest to the left or adjust your cam lean/spacing. Cam adjustment method varies by bow...some use shims to shift the cam left/right on the axle (Mathews, newer Hoyts), some use cable tension to torque the axle (older Hoyts & Bowtechs), newer Bowtechs use a worm drive that shifts the cam left/right, newer Elites torque the entire limb/cam assembly. Here's a handy tuning reference chart from Gold Tip:

 

[fmnjr]

To fix broadheads hitting left of field points, either shift your rest to the left or adjust your cam lean/spacing. Cam adjustment method varies by bow...some use shims to shift the cam left/right on the axle (Mathews, newer Hoyts), some use cable tension to torque the axle (older Hoyts & Bowtechs), newer Bowtechs use a worm drive that shifts the cam left/right, newer Elites torque the entire limb/cam assembly. Here's a handy tuning reference chart from Gold Tip:
View attachment 257654
View attachment 257655

Great info, thanks! Too bad my Elite Terrain is not one of the rigs that has S.E.T. built into it.

 

[Bow Bullet]

Your field points and BHs appear to be hitting about the same height so your rest and Dloop heights are about right.

As MM pointed out, you'll need to bump your rest to the left or adjust the top cam yoke to lean the cam to the right. Your shop would need to press the bow to adjust the yoke. What is the horizontal measurement from the riser face to the center of the arrow? If it's 13/16" or less, I'd bump the rest left about 1/16" and shoot again. The BHs and FPs should tighten up. Make further rest adjustments if necessary to bring them together. If you'd need to move it out further than 7/8" to get them hitting together, I'd recommend having the yoke adjusted.

Also, what distance are you shooting? If you are at 20, I'd move the sight pins left 1/8" and down 1/16". More if closer. Do this before moving the rest and shooting again to get you closer to the middle of the target.

Right now your main focus is getting them to hit together, not where they hit in relation to where your pin is aiming. After you get them hitting the same impact point, then you can make final adjustments to your sight pins.

 

[fmnjr]

Still working through the process of learning to shoot BHs.

Doing something wrong but don't have a clue - shots still land to the left!

I've about shot out the block I just bought.

Thinking about getting a Matrix but at $459 it's got me wondering if it's worth it?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Still working through the process of learning to shoot BHs.

Doing something wrong but don't have a clue - shots still land to the left!

I've about shot out the block I just bought.

Thinking about getting a Matrix but at $459 it's got me wondering if it's worth it?

Have you done any yoke tuning or rest tuning to try to shift broadhead POI to the right?

It's a good idea to do a final check with broadheads, but most of your tuning can be done by shooting field point-tipped bareshafts, which are much easier on your targets.

 

[fmnjr]

Have you done any yoke tuning or rest tuning to try to shift broadhead POI to the right?

It's a good idea to do a final check with broadheads, but most of your tuning can be done by shooting field point-tipped bareshafts, which are much easier on your targets.

Tried rest tuning myself, BHs still shot off. Called an instructor I know who told me to bring the bow to him. He shot a bullet hole in paper right off the bat, as did I. Somehow, when tuning the rest, I got it perfect? Then he shoots two cold shots at 20. One FT, one BH. Landed then within an inch of one another. So it's me, not the bow. I'll look into the bare shafts.....thank you.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Tried rest tuning myself, BHs still shot off. Called an instructor I know who told me to bring the bow to him. He shot a bullet hole in paper right off the bat, as did I. Somehow, when tuning the rest, I got it perfect? Then he shoots two cold shots at 20. One FT, one BH. Landed then within an inch of one another. So it's me, not the bow. I'll look into the bare shafts.....thank you.

All bows have to be tuned to the shooter. Everyone grips the bow a little differently, anchors a little differently, etc. which affects how the arrow flies and what adjustments are needed to get broadheads hitting with field points.

The first order of business is to achieve repeatable results. If you're seeing the same relative POI across multiple shots with multiple different arrows, then your form is consistent enough to proceed with tuning. When tuning with rest windage, if you have to shift more than 1/8" away from 13/16" centershot, try adjusting yoke twists instead (you'll need a bow press to do so). You can also try experimenting with different aspects of your shooting form (e.g., grip hand placement), just have to make sure you can repeatably execute any form adjustments you make.

 

[rogerthat]

Tried rest tuning myself, BHs still shot off. Called an instructor I know who told me to bring the bow to him. He shot a bullet hole in paper right off the bat, as did I. Somehow, when tuning the rest, I got it perfect? Then he shoots two cold shots at 20. One FT, one BH. Landed then within an inch of one another. So it's me, not the bow. I'll look into the bare shafts.....thank you.

Some of the other guys chiming in are more knowledgeable than me I think but I have found broadheads magnify any issues you may have with either your form or your equipment so I think what your experiencing is fairly normal. Can you shoot good consistent groups with your broadheads? If so you could always just move your pins to match your broadheads and go hunting for now.

 

[fmnjr]

I think I've been torquing my grip to the right, making the BHs fly left. Was playing around with my grip today and noticed when I put a very slight left torque on my grip and....voila! the BHs started hitting consistently in a 3-5 inch circle at 20! Thanks to everyone for putting up with my nonsense, you're a great group of folks!

 

[NoBadP17]

After trying the shop's broadheads and having no luck, decided to buy some to try on my own. Results are shown below in photos. Shots were cold, too. Shots with bottom-left orientation are Slick Tricks and Montecs, 100gr. Right orientation shots are field points. The BL shots mimic more or less what happened at the shop indoor range. It seems like the best option is to tune the bow for the broadheads when hunting, and re-tune for field points when practicing. I'm open for other suggestions that may work.

Have you been able to get the SS3's sharp? I picked up some of those along w/ the standards, Kudus and Magnus Stingers, and the SS3's were BY FAR the dullest out of them all, and I have not been able to get them sharp no matter how hard I try

 

[Robert N]

Some of the other guys chiming in are more knowledgeable than me I think but I have found broadheads magnify any issues you may have with either your form or your equipment so I think what your experiencing is fairly normal. Can you shoot good consistent groups with your broadheads? If so you could always just move your pins to match your broadheads and go hunting for now.

I started bow hunting last year and this was a big discovery for me. I was shooting QAD Exodus Broadheads and found the barbless (full blade) magnified the effect even more than the QAD Exodus barb style (less aerodynamic drag issue).

And then I went to the Swhacker 2” and DING DING DING. They grouped right next to my field points.

I got the QAD’s pretty close to the field points…about 2” off at 30 yards. what I really found is that if my form was off even the slightest it really magnified the effect of the wind on the arrow. Slip concentration and watch me shoot 6” off.

The Swhackers were much, much more forgiving.

I’m kinda sure I could get it all dialed in with more work…but dang, it’s work. Super tiny rest changes make a big difference.

Good luck and congrats on the new obession!

Anyway, good luck!

 

[fmnjr]

Have you been able to get the SS3's sharp? I picked up some of those along w/ the standards, Kudus and Magnus Stingers, and the SS3's were BY FAR the dullest out of them all, and I have not been able to get them sharp no matter how hard I try

Just saw this. I dunno all I can tell you is that the three kinds of BHs being shot into the Blob get buried about 6-7 inches. Pretty good I think.