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The Timney trigger is adjustable and "crisp". Unbelievably crisp actually. This doesn't make the gun shoot better, it makes YOU shoot the gun better. A lot better in my case. No creep and I know precisely when the gun will fire. Timney factory sets trigger weight at 3.5 lbs and if that's where mine is at, it's perfect. You should be able to drop their trigger in without too much trouble. Follow the instructions provided. Sounds like only minimal material, if any, would need to be removed from your stock. My Timney trigger was a bit of a unique headache due to inconsistency in sears and strikers during wartime production. Required some modification of striker and safety that my gunsmith African hunting buddy was disinclined to attempt. It took some time and creative thinking before I eventually got it in (thank you Dremel tool!). I think that's why Timney came up with their "deluxe" model with trigger block safety. Simply remove the Springfield striker safety and that takes care of problems matching new trigger up to it.
Sounds great….never hurts to improve the operator. The trigger is pretty stiff on there. I’ll add that to the upgrade.
I like how this has turned out…went from retiring an old warhorse to giving it another thirty years of filling up the freezer. I definitely have no reservations sending an 06 across a canyon at an elk. I know what that’s capable of if I do my part.
 
I was in the same situation a couple years ago. I had a "lightweight mountain rifle" that I wasnt really happy with how it shot. Had an old remington laying around that had been used pretty hard over the years and just sat in the safe. Buddy convinced me to put a good barrel on it and bed it in a new stock. Ended up shipping it out to a highly recommended gunsmith to do the action/barrel work. Finished it up and the thing is a tack driver. Kinda ruined me though as far as rifles now. Would rather spend the $ on the components I want and build it my way.
Didn't Coffin build your rifle? mtmuley
 
How much difference did the Timney trigger make? I only had minimal exposure to it after returning from Africa first week of Sept, installing the trigger, and leaving for Montana around 20 Oct. My order for bullets didn't arrive till three days before the Montana trip. Discovered I had only a few rifle primers and didn't rustle up another box of those till day before leaving. Had time to zero the load and that's it. Nevertheless, when the one and only shot at a buck presented itself, I knew that guy was in the bag, even at two hundred yards offhand. It's hard to describe. Having a trigger that goes off smoothly, crisply, and the exact point expected makes shooting so much easier, especially if it's a shot that requires some precision and a short window of opportunity. I shot my cape buffalo on the fly at 65 yards with a borrowed .375 CZ Safari. I don't remember what the trigger pull was like. Didn't matter at that range. Similarly five years ago I shot a buck in the head at fifty yards with my brother's Ruger 77. Never fired it before. I'm told they have a lousy trigger but I couldn't tell. All I could see was the buck's head and he could see me. Quick shot offhand. Hit or miss. Because he wasn't much of a buck a miss wouldn't have broke my heart. It was the last day of the hunt so he was it or nothing. I shot him right through the eye ... right where I expected the bullet to go. Those are close quick shots. A crappy trigger matters less (but I'm not saying it doesn't matter at all). Long range shots are rarely if ever quick shots. For mere mortals shooting quickly 200 yards or further is Hail Mary stuff. Not ethical. At those ranges a good trigger makes a big difference. This year's buck was definitely at the threshold for a relatively quick shot at that range, especially offhand, but I was not winded or much excited (I outgrew buck fever forty years ago), and the gun held well. No waiting and guessing when the trigger will let go made a difference in the decision to take that shot. It seemed easy and I was not surprised when the buck tipped over. I hit him a little higher than expected with exit breaking his back above shoulder but it was an offhand shot uphill. He was dead by the time he rolled to the bottom of the coulee.
 
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Steve, if you're thinking about dolling up that 700's stock I can give you several tips. At the top of the list: don't try to strip or sand Remington's glossy "bowling pin" finish. It will take you forever to get down to wood. Chip that finish off by dragging a semi dull knife across it. Wear protective eye covering though because that stuff really pops off explosively. When you get most of it off then go with stripper. Stripper only in the checkering. Use water and a small wire brush with brass bristles to scrub the stripper off. May take several repeats to get the wood clean. That's tip #1. Lots more if you decide to go that direction. Here's my Browning Citori after removing similar (same?) kind of finish and doing it in oil. Not great images but you get the idea.20200417_173819.jpg20200417_173529.jpg
 
Steve, if you're thinking about dolling up that 700's stock I can give you several tips. At the top of the list: don't try to strip or sand Remington's glossy "bowling pin" finish. It will take you forever to get down to wood. Chip that finish off by dragging a semi dull knife across it. Wear protective eye covering though because that stuff really pops off explosively. When you get most of it off then go with stripper. Stripper only in the checkering. Use water and a small wire brush with brass bristles to scrub the stripper off. May take several repeats to get the wood clean. That's tip #1. Lots more if you decide to go that direction. Here's my Browning Citori after removing similar (same?) kind of finish and doing it in oil. Not great images but you get the idea.View attachment 208323View attachment 208324
Yes sir I do…I’ve never been a fan of shiny guns. Sure they are nice to look at but I prefer a dull finish for a hunting rifle and since it’s getting work done then why not.
I’ve ordered the Timney trigger and bedding kit so I’m still under 200$. A lot cheaper than a new one.
I did call a gunsmith that does decent work. He can put a new barrel on it if needed for 250$. He was way more interested in talking about buying my 1957 Browning 16 gauge Auto 5 I mentioned I had a few years ago than talking about my rifle. He’s called me three years in a row asking if I’d sell that one. I didn’t even ask about the bedding. I think I can handle that myself.
 
Yes sir I do…I’ve never been a fan of shiny guns. Sure they are nice to look at but I prefer a dull finish for a hunting rifle and since it’s getting work done then why not.
I’ve ordered the Timney trigger and bedding kit so I’m still under 200$. A lot cheaper than a new one.
I did call a gunsmith that does decent work. He can put a new barrel on it if needed for 250$. He was way more interested in talking about buying my 1957 Browning 16 gauge Auto 5 I mentioned I had a few years ago than talking about my rifle. He’s called me three years in a row asking if I’d sell that one. I didn’t even ask about the bedding. I think I can handle that myself.
Is that $250 including the barrel? If it's just the labour for putting it on, that's way too much. I don't think it took my guy forty minutes to put my barrel on. Pulling barrels off military guns can sometimes be challenging as armories often peened the reciever edge over the barrel. But pulling the barrel on a 700 should be no trouble. Adjusting head space shouldn't be hard either. If you put the gun back in the stock and do the work to open up the barrel trough for new barrel and/or rebed the action (only necessary if you didn't float the barrel all the way to receiver - most sources say float to the chamber), then I think $250 for rebarrel labour is way out of line.
 
Is that $250 including the barrel? If it's just the labour for putting it on, that's way too much. I don't think it took my guy forty minutes to put my barrel on. Pulling barrels off military guns can sometimes be challenging as armories often peened the reciever edge over the barrel. But pulling the barrel on a 700 should be no trouble. Adjusting head space shouldn't be hard either. If you put the gun back in the stock and do the work to open up the barrel trough for new barrel and/or rebed the action (only necessary if you didn't float the barrel all the way to receiver - most sources say float to the chamber), then I think $250 for rebarrel labour is way out of line.
That’s for a barrel too. He tried to fix my grandfather’s shotgun for me and it didn’t work out. So I’m not sure I’d use him anyway. He’s just the only guy around I know and I wanted an idea about the cost. He did say it was an easy change out.
 
Last year I had a young fella bring me an early 16 ga A5 to fix. It wouldn't cycle. I completely dismantled it, removed petrified cosmaline grease, and it now works fine. He bought it in local store for $200 which I think was a fair price. Most of those are fixed full and ammo is hard to get. If shells can be found, fixed full sixteen gauge is useful for shooting pheasants but not much else. I am curious why this gunsmith covets one so much.
 
Last year I had a young fella bring me an early 16 ga A5 to fix. It wouldn't cycle. I completely dismantled it, removed petrified cosmaline grease, and it now works fine. He bought it in local store for $200 which I think was a fair price. Most of those are fixed full and ammo is hard to get. If shells can be found, fixed full sixteen gauge is useful for shooting pheasants but not much else. I am curious why this gunsmith covets one so much.
They love them for rabbit and squirrel hunting here in MS. That’s all he does. He said a Belgium made Browning in a 16 is the best gun he’d ever hunted with and he had one identical to it that he lost in a fire. It was my grandfather’s rabbit gun..so it’s not going anywhere. I’ve told him, but he keeps trying. Has offered 1500$ for it. I shoot it a few times a year, but haven’t hunted with it. It’s a nice shotgun for sure.
 
You seem pretty knowledgeable about firearms and ammo so I have a question. Say I buy factory ammo all with the same bullet. Let’s say a Barnes TTSX. Would or should that ammo group differently. Would federal and Barnes shoot the same out of my rifle if I have the same 180 grain bullet?
 
That’s for a barrel too. He tried to fix my grandfather’s shotgun for me and it didn’t work out. So I’m not sure I’d use him anyway. He’s just the only guy around I know and I wanted an idea about the cost. He did say it was an easy change out.
If that includes the barrel I'd be a little suspicious. I went with a "closest-guy-available" gunsmith who said putting my barrel on was "easy." Two months later I'm about to take off for Africa and the guy still has the gun and is ghosting me. I call the shooters supply place that took the gun in and the kid behind the counter said their gunsmith had "gone rogue." Whaaaat! I had to drive across the border mid pandemic (fortunately still US citizen), drive to Wisconsin, and threaten to call LE before the bum (yes, he lives in a shack!) produced my gun ... in four pieces! Then drive on to Minneapolis VA hospital for COVID test so I can get back into Canada. Back up to International Falls crossing ... on the first day Canada opened the border. I sat in line for five hours 90+ degree heat before getting through customs. First stop was Walmart to buy clean clothes! Then on to Dryden trying to locate another gunsmith living off the grid but he had just left town for birth of grandchild. Then back to Kenora and all the way north to Red Lake where a retired gunsmith/mine machinist put the barrel on. Then eight hour drive back home, bed the new barrel, sight it in the next day, then drive back to Minneapolis for another COVID test so I could fly to Africa the next day (Twin Cities is 14 hrs round trip from my house). That was five days of almost nonstop driving because some joker gunsmith couldn't do an "easy" job. It's my understanding you can mail your gun to yourself c/o of a gunsmith and he can mail it back without FFL issues. It's not buying or selling a gun so no need to be limited to a local guy. Ask around or search the net. If your family has struck out with this guy once I see no reason to give him another swing at the bat. Anyway, that's a ways down the road. May not be necessary.
 
You seem pretty knowledgeable about firearms and ammo so I have a question. Say I buy factory ammo all with the same bullet. Let’s say a Barnes TTSX. Would or should that ammo group differently. Would federal and Barnes shoot the same out of my rifle if I have the same 180 grain bullet?
I think anyone on here would agree that would be a crap shoot. Maybe, maybe not. If one is mono and one is lead, very unlikely. Same with boat tail vs flat base bullets or round nose vs pointed soft point. Even similar bullets loaded by different companies could (and likely would) shoot differently. Just changing primers can make a difference in grouping. What's even more mystifying is changing weights can change the LOCATION of a group. Going from 165 gr Partitions to 191 gr Hornady soft point (now extinct) still gives a pretty good group at 100 yards but way down and to left of the 165 load. The reason is different velocity and/or bullet weight produces different barrel harmonics. When the heavier bullet leaves the barrel the muzzle has vibrated to a different position than where it was when zeroed with 165 gr. I would be curious to know what effect the Simms harmonic stabilizer would have on changing bullets. Browning makes (or made) a BOSS system harmonic stabilizer that attached to the end of the barrel. It is a rotating counterweight with a dial on it. Presumably the shooter can get the gun dialed in for several different loads and change ammo without having to make a trip back to the range. Simply dial in the new load. Might be nice if one wanted to take a 30-06 on a trip where pronghorn and elk were on the menu.
 
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I’m not a guy who buys a new gun very often. My 30-06 Remington 700 is almost 35 years old and accuracy is not that great anymore. My main rifle is a single shot H&R 444 marlin I bought ten years ago that I deer hunt with ( I don’t have to track deer anymore after the shot!) I decided to start hunting out west beginning this year and want to get a new rifle. I’m leaning towards the Browning X bolt long range and topping it with a Leupold VX cds scope. Looking hard at the .308 and the 6.8 western. That 444 marlin has a punch to it so I’m wanting a little less recoil as I get older. What do you folks who hunt out west suggests?
Get a Leupold 3xHD for a scope. You'll love it!
 
My brother has 3 and he loves it. I bought vx5 from Schmalts with the fire dot. He’s the best. I am waiting on the new Raptor base and rings from Mountain Tactical… I’m stoked. Yes, I will be chasing yotes with my 300 shortly. 🤤
 
For a long time 6.8 was one of the few cartridges Sportsman's in Laramie had in stock. I can see it being hit or miss though.
The 6.8 Western is definitely interesting, but I’m out east and have yet to see the ammo or a rifle chambered in it.
 
I’m not a guy who buys a new gun very often. My 30-06 Remington 700 is almost 35 years old and accuracy is not that great anymore. My main rifle is a single shot H&R 444 marlin I bought ten years ago that I deer hunt with ( I don’t have to track deer anymore after the shot!) I decided to start hunting out west beginning this year and want to get a new rifle. I’m leaning towards the Browning X bolt long range and topping it with a Leupold VX cds scope. Looking hard at the .308 and the 6.8 western. That 444 marlin has a punch to it so I’m wanting a little less recoil as I get older. What do you folks who hunt out west suggests?
I dont have. Ton of guns, but i have a few and have shot a couple... Last year i got a browning hells canyon in 6.8 western and put a leupold vx5 on it. Never tried the cds system before... I can honestly say it is the nicest shooting rifle i have ever shot and the cds system is impressive and simple
 
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