So bought a brake for my Acura LR. Wanted to put more powder in and have the wife shoot it with less recoil. Nope, bad groups after I put it on. So being this close to deer season and wanting to use it I just went back to the load already shooting good. 3 30 grain 777 pellets and a federal 270 grain copper bullet. Anybody use a brake on there muzzleloader and share what happened when putting one on....good or bad.
muzzleloader brake
- Thread starter tom338
- Start date
David58
Well-known member
Not sure how the pellet thing works, if you can load in smaller increments than 30 grains. But might the 60 grains be enough? My wife shoots a .54 Thompson Center Renegade, equipped with a good recoil pad. 80 grains of FF. Maybe 90? And she is a 5'3" 60-something-year-old and far less anchored by gravity than this fat boy.
Shooting off the bench is miserable compared to standing. Maybe instead of taking the approach with the brake, try trigger stix or some other tripod for shooting while standing? That can really make recoil manageable, at least from what we have seen.
David
NM
Shooting off the bench is miserable compared to standing. Maybe instead of taking the approach with the brake, try trigger stix or some other tripod for shooting while standing? That can really make recoil manageable, at least from what we have seen.
David
NM
utah400elk
Well-known member
I just had arrowhead instal a brake on my Knight Ultra-Lite. No difference at all in group size. I can easily shoot sub MOA with 120 grn (by volume) BH209 load, Veggie wad, and a 270 grn Parker 270 grn Match/Hunter E-Max bullet. I get a little over 2200 FPS with this load. Recoil was a bit hard prior to the break. With the break…nice shooting muzzleloader.
Last edited:
Laelkhunter
Well-known member
Take the brake off and shoot the same powder charge, bullet, etc. Might be the load. If you were getting good groups before you increased the powder charge, try the same charge with the brake. Usually when I hear of terrible groups with a brake, it is usually because the bullet has a hollow base, and part of the base is separating from the bullet when it leaves the barrel and moves through the brake. Since you are using a copper bullet, I doubt that is the problem. Could be also that the bullet is striking the brake on the inside (see reply #3 above). Take the brake off and drop a bullet through it. If it hangs up without sliding through, take a rat tail file (chain saw file) and run it on the inside of the brake to remove the high spot. If the bullet is touching anything in the brake when it comes out of the barrel, it will definitely affect the group.
This brake is also overboard to prevent it from catching the sabot
Just go a brake from arrowhead. It won't go on my CVA Accura LR-X. Called company and was told to put anti seize on and work back and forth. Can get it on about 2 full turns, but no way I'm going to get it on all the way much less get it back off. Sent an email asking to send back and try another. Was told since I tried another brake and groups were bad that a brake probably won't work on my rifle and send their brake back for a full refund. Well that's all good. But how about addressing the problem of the threads that are not cut right. Yup 3/4 x 24. If I clamped the barrel in a vice and used a pipe wrench I probably could have gotten it on. Not going to do that
