Mechanical broadheads for elk

[Wapiti Warrior]

I know a few guys who have shot several elk with the 2 blade rage and have had great success. they don't take risky shots and are very proficient with their bows, practicing all year long. There are stories of lost elk on both sides of this issue. I believe each has to decide on what they are comfortable with and with their equipment. I do agree the heavier poundage bow is better for the bigger game.

John

 

[Frenchy]

In my opinion, 60 lbs is plenty for big game (Including Elk). I'm not a big guy by any stretch of the imagination, and had my bow set to pull 67-68lbs for years. I could get the job done, but it wasn't pretty. Backed my bow down to 60lbs, and get a much smoother more efficent draw, Which in turn improved my shooting a ton. You can read about KE and momentum until you are blue in the face, but the more important factor to consider, is how well you actually shoot the setup in your hand. Don't sweet the extra 20 feet/sec you'd get by shooting 60 vs. 70. Shoot what you can comfortably shoot, and the bow/arrow will do the rest.

 

[roadhunter]

You should have put this thread in the fishing session since you opened a big can of worms.

Yes. Seems to be a few subjects that bring many different opinions, this is one of them.

Very similar to the heated bullet debates that have gone on.

 

[MinnesotaHunter]

I saw a picture of my buddies dead bull last fall with at least 2/3 of the arrow still sticking out. The shot was only 18 yards. He shoots 70lbs. You can't argue with dead, but no thanks, that is why I spent $150 in new heavier arrows this summer. I want my arrow laying in the grass on the other side.

In case this was missed from when this conversation started. I think the right arrow is just as important as broadhead. Last year I switched to Victory VAPs from CE Maxima Bluestreaks, and the improvement in penetration was remarkable. It actually cost me 160 more dollars to upgrade my target from a hurricane bag to a spiderweb, because I was ripping off fletchings inside the bag from 40yds and in. I shot G5 T3s on whitetails for a couple of years and I was very impressed with the devestation they caused, but it seemed like half the time when I took one out of my quiver, I had to reset the blade, so I switched back to Slick Trick Mags, and haven't looked back.

 

[WapitiBob]

DDD, 60# out of a new bow is plenty of weight. Put it where it's supposed to go and you'll be fine, put it in the wrong spot and 80# won't do you any good.

 

[Devil Diver Down]

Funny how a 3 1/2 year-old thread can generate so much new traffic during the off-season. For those scoring at home, I never did go with a mechanical. I shot (well, carried on my arrows since I didn't release at anything except targets ) G5 Strikers for my first couple of deer seasons, then switched over to G5 Montecs with carbon steel in 2012 because I liked the blades a little better and they flew great on my set up.

Since the switch I lost one bull on what I have now convinced myself - maybe conveniently, but after a lot of hand wringing and reading threads on lost elk - was a brisket shot that drew a lot of blood but let a nice bull recover. And I killed one bull, blowing a whole big enough through the exit side that it looked like someone was dumping a frothy pink, watered-down milkshake out of his lungs, and with enough force that the broadhead lodged into an oak tree after the pass through.

All of that said, I'm quite sure I'll follow my yearly early summer ritual of considering new (fixed blade) broadheads, whether I switch brands or not. I'm still set at #60 with the same bow, arrows, etc because I like the way it shoots and the way I shoot it. Thanks for all the input.

 

[WapitiBob]

Congrats on the bull.
Broadheads are like women, trucks, bows, .... well, pretty much everything.