Leupold CDS Dial Mounting Questions

chuckchili

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I finally got my CDS scope zeroed and installed my dial last night. I simply removed the "stock" dial and placed the CDS dial on at the 1 mark (I zeroed at 100 yards). I tightened the allen screws and it seems to work properly, ie: it spins and I hear clicks. My CDS dial does not have the silver zero-stop button. My questions are:
1. When I dial up for greater distance my dial won't go past the 7 marking, is this normal? I don't plan on shooting near or past 700 yards- I'm trying to ensure the dial is installed correctly.
2. When I dial back down, the dial stops at 1- is this supposed to happen? Again, I didn't think I have the zero stop feature on my dial so I'm not complaining but just checking.

Has anyone else had the same experience with their CDS scope? Thank you for any info.

Rifle info if needed:
Remington 700, 300 WM.
Nosler E-Tips 180gr
Leupold 4.5x14x40 CDS
 
Last edited:
You are running out of elevation adjustment because your scope is running out of elevation adjustment. You probably used some zeroing when you first mounted the scope. It only goes so far. If you wanted to dial out further you'd need a new scope base.

The button is on the newest zl2 version, but there was also a previous zero lock with no button.

I think you're good.
 
I don't know about that. What I do is sight it dead on at 300 yards and then install the dial.
I have found a 100 yard zero if off at 300 yards slightly not just elevation but left or right.

Left or right is your scope not being level...being off on elevation, means you don't have the right data (velocity, BC, etc), your click values aren't precise, or you're out on the edges of windage somewhere.

Most people don't understand how important it is for your zero to be in the middle of both windage and elevation if you're spinning turrets. If you have to adjust your scope values too far any direction to zero, you're sort of shooting yourself in the foot from the start. Lots of ways to make that happen mechanically to get yourself in the middle of things.
 
Well when I mount a scope I hang a weight on a string so I don’t know how to get it any straighter.
Also a rifle with right hand twist has to be factored in also. CDS dials are a comprise as you only have what you set the environmental conditions to. Sighting it in at 300 yards is roughly half of 99.9% of the shots you will get in the field.
 
Always zero at 100. 100 is not effected by environmental issues, and wind is much less a concern. Additionally because 100 is right in the flattest part of the trajectory curve, you can zero anywhere between 60 and 120 yards and have a “100 yard zero”.

I run a 250 yard zero on most of my rifles but always shoot at 100 to zero my rifle. I then dial the necessary adjustment for 250 and rezero my turret and then shoot 250 to confirm. Then validate my data to 1000+.
 
Well when I mount a scope I hang a weight on a string so I don’t know how to get it any straighter.
With a level. The plumbob thing would work if you know the gun is level. In my experience it’s easier to just level the gun, check the rings then level the scope. Not trying to be a douche. Just saying how I do it.
 
Well when I mount a scope I hang a weight on a string so I don’t know how to get it any straighter.
Also a rifle with right hand twist has to be factored in also. CDS dials are a comprise as you only have what you set the environmental conditions to. Sighting it in at 300 yards is roughly half of 99.9% of the shots you will get in the field.

Do you level the rifle before mounting the scope in the rings?
Spin drift isn’t much of a concern at 300 yards. Parallax and mirage is much more a factor at that distance.
 
Well when I mount a scope I hang a weight on a string so I don’t know how to get it any straighter.
Also a rifle with right hand twist has to be factored in also. CDS dials are a comprise as you only have what you set the environmental conditions to. Sighting it in at 300 yards is roughly half of 99.9% of the shots you will get in the field.
I’m talking about actually shooting the gun Not just mounting the scope. Most people shoot a rifle canted if they don’t have a level to look at. I believe it is for every 1 degree of cant your poi shifts 1/2” per 100 yards
 
Can’t be much can’t as the target is square and level. While spin drift is not a lot it’s something.
With most “standard” hunting cartridges spin drift at 300 would be about 1” which I doubt most average hunters can even shoot well enough to notice that at 300.
 
Can’t be much can’t as the target is square and level. While spin drift is not a lot it’s something.
So when you level a scope do you have the rifle up to your shoulder, look through the scope and level with a plumbob?

I think what some of these dudes are trying to say is that you might be misinterpreting spin drift for a scope that isn’t level. The vertical crosshair has to be perpendicular to the horizontal axis of the barrel. Because as stated already 1 degree off can cause 1/2 minute at 100, and it’s really difficult to have a level gun.

Again, internet 2020, I’m not trying to be a douche, I’m just trying to understand where you’re coming from.

To the op, sorry for contributing to the derailment of your thread. There’s only so much travel in a scope. I wouldn’t worry about it honestly.

Zach
 
My CDS functions the exact same as yours. It has a built in non-visible zero stop. The dial likely doesn't go past 700 because that CDS only gives one full revolution on the elevation turret.
This is correct.
You can also DIY Mod a factory MOA CDS dial to have one. It’s just a ball bearing in a recessed hole.
 

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