How's my posture?

SD_Prairie_Goat

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Not the greatest shot, so trying to improve, but I've been self taught, so how's my posture? I took a slomo video, but I don't think there's an easy way to attach them, so here's a couple grabs.
0A4FFAC3-492E-4C0E-B618-E8DC95FA0D4A.pngD16261EA-BDE9-4F69-8215-753479FE3AE8.png
 
1. You're holding the trigger with the tip of your pointer finger. This is a delicate (difficult/imprecise) balance to get decent control when you squeeze the release, because you are relying on control from your forearm tendons rather than back muscles. Instead, crank your release in closer to your wrist, and hold the trigger with the second segment of your finger. This way you make a 90 degree cradle on the trigger, and it forces you to pull your whole arm back and release with back tension, rather than wrapping your pointer finger close to your body. It's totally different than squeezing the trigger on a gun in which you'd use the trigger just like you have your finger now on the bow release.

2. It appears that you are torqueing your riser hand to close to a 90 degree angle with the ground, seeing as the tip of your pinky appears to be touching the riser. You can easily torque your shots doing this. Instead, position this hand at a 45 degree angle to the riser. This is a natural angle for the way your arm is positioned. This prevents torque, and prevents you from gripping the riser. This will also position your forearm to where you can ditch the forearm guard because you'll never slap the string with it at that angle (unless you lock your elbow which you wouldn't do anyways).

3. Good elbow on your release arm

4. Legs are feet look good

5. If you are going to be bowhunting wearing thin gloves, wear those gloves every time you practice, so it's tuned in correctly. Otherwise your distance on the wrist rocket will be off.

6. If you will be hunting with an attached quiver, attach a full quiver when you practice. This helps with consistent stabilization

7. I can't see if you have a wrist sling to allow the bow to fall forward out of your hand after you shoot. If you don't have one, get one.
 
1. You're holding the trigger with the tip of your pointer finger. This is a delicate (difficult/imprecise) balance to get decent control when you squeeze the release, because you are relying on control from your forearm tendons rather than back muscles. Instead, crank your release in closer to your wrist, and hold the trigger with the second segment of your finger. This way you make a 90 degree cradle on the trigger, and it forces you to pull your whole arm back and release with back tension, rather than wrapping your pointer finger close to your body. It's totally different than squeezing the trigger on a gun in which you'd use the trigger just like you have your finger now on the bow release.

2. It appears that you are torqueing your riser hand to close to a 90 degree angle with the ground, seeing as the tip of your pinky appears to be touching the riser. You can easily torque your shots doing this. Instead, position this hand at a 45 degree angle to the riser. This is a natural angle for the way your arm is positioned. This prevents torque, and prevents you from gripping the riser. This will also position your forearm to where you can ditch the forearm guard because you'll never slap the string with it at that angle (unless you lock your elbow which you wouldn't do anyways).

3. Good elbow on your release arm

4. Legs are feet look good

5. If you are going to be bowhunting wearing thin gloves, wear those gloves every time you practice, so it's tuned in correctly. Otherwise your distance on the wrist rocket will be off.

6. If you will be hunting with an attached quiver, attach a full quiver when you practice. This helps with consistent stabilization

7. I can't see if you have a wrist sling to allow the bow to fall forward out of your hand after you shoot. If you don't have one, get one.

1. Felt the same thing today, was thinking about changing the length and now I will, Danka!

2. I've tried that before but it feels like I can't control the bow as well and that the pins bounce around too much...

5. Good idea

6. Good idea again

7. Have a wrist sling, no idea what it is for really though. Seen people drop their bow forward on shots, but no idea how or why they do that? I just hold onto the bow?
 
Trying to consciously hold onto the bow can add the torque. I don’t drop it completely after the shot, but it kind of swings in the web between my thumb and pointer. I don’t even have a closed grip when I shoot, just push with that seam of your thumb. I seem to consolidate most of my problems in my anchor point.
 
What EF2 was trying to tell you in #2 is that you are gripping your riser with your whole hand. Doing so will greatly increase the odds of torquing your riser at the shot. Relax your grip and let the riser cradle in the "V" between your thumb and pointer finger. If done correctly, this will force your pinky and ring finger out, away from the riser....EF2's 45 degree comment. Having a loose wrist strap prevents the bow from jumping out of your loose gripped hand at the shot.
 
2. I've tried that before but it feels like I can't control the bow as well and that the pins bounce around too much...
I’d wager that your draw length is off, maybe even as little as 1/8” of an inch. This puts the draw weight on your muscles rather than your bones, and will cause the pins to bounce around and feel like you can’t control the bow. You’ve “fixed” this issue by gripping the riser, but this just creates a 2nd problem.

For a demonstration, stand 90 degrees to a wall, with the wall to your left. Then reach your arm out and lean against the wall with an open hand. You’ll notice that your fingers are naturally positioned at a 45 degree angle to the ground. Rotate your palm so that it’s perpendicular to the ground (like you’re holding your bow) and you’ll feel the unnatural torque.

Return to the 45 degree angle and keep leaning against the wall. Now try pushing harder against the wall, pushing off with your right foot. Your whole body bounces around. Now just put a tiny amount of pressure on the wall. Again, you bounce around. These exercises let you feel what a draw length that is too short and too long feel like.

Get the right draw length and it will feel like your holding a cloud (your bow), and you can stay at full draw for several minutes comfortably, just like you can lean comfortably against the wall for some time.


7. Have a wrist sling, no idea what it is for really though. Seen people drop their bow forward on shots, but no idea how or why they do that? I just hold onto the bow?
The arrow is above where you grip the riser, so when it leaves the bow the momentum will cause the top of the bow to tip forward with the webbing between your index finger and thumb as the axis of rotation. Holding on to the bow arrests the rotation and can result in poor accuracy along the vertical axis. Since you don’t know exactly when the trigger will deploy when you squeeze it, you can’t consistently hold on to the bow with the same pressure consistently, but you can learn to let the bow tip forward consistently every time, by letting it fall and using a wrist sling.

If you get @JLS, @WapitiBob, and @teej89 to chime in, you’ll get a better opinion than from me.
 
I’d wager that your draw length is off, maybe even as little as 1/8” of an inch. This puts the draw weight on your muscles rather than your bones, and will cause the pins to bounce around and feel like you can’t control the bow. You’ve “fixed” this issue by gripping the riser, but this just creates a 2nd problem.


If you get @JLS, @WapitiBob, and @teej89 to chime in, you’ll get a better opinion than from me.

So let me ask you this, I can set my bow at 30" or 31", how do you get down to 1/8th of an inch?

Also how do you know what to set the bow at? Currently set at 30", and how do you know if you're at the sweet spot?
 
Go to an archery shop, get measured and have it fit to your specs. And yes, you are gripping it too tight. Open your fingers. You should only contact the grip mainly at the back edge when drawn back.
 
So let me ask you this, I can set my bow at 30" or 31", how do you get down to 1/8th of an inch?

Also how do you know what to set the bow at? Currently set at 30", and how do you know if you're at the sweet spot?

I quote this book so much, someone here has to buy it! 🤣🤣

Bernie's idiot proof archery says wing span minus 15" then half that.
 
Also how do you know what to set the bow at? Currently set at 30", and how do you know if you're at the sweet spot?
What’s your wingspan, fingertip to fingertip? Mine is just shy of 73” and my draw length is 29 3/4”. 30” feels like my chest is expanded too much, and 29” felt like I was holding the bow open with my muscles. I set it at 29.5” and called it good, and it felt ok, but once I got to 29 3/4” I hit the sweet spot.

An easy way to adjust in 1/4” or so increments is to shorten your D loop. Every 1/2“ less loop string used lengthens your draw by 1/4”. A D loop pliers let’s you tie really small D loops. If it’s as short as it will go, and you need it shorter yet, an extra twist of the bow string (using a press), will adjust a small fraction of an inch.
 
Also I'm not a phenomenal archer, I just read a book once. #disclaimer.

It looks like your arrow length is a bit long as well.

Don't grip the bow, let it rest in the meat of your palm, I only gently rest my pointer and middle on the front of the riser, barely. OHHHH look at the book cover in the amazon link and you'll see what I'm saying.

WRAP your finger around the trigger.

Shoot with both eyes open (that'll take a bit of practice)

Also somehow this contradicts bone on bone but a slight bend in the left elbow does wonders.

 
Also somehow this contradicts bone on bone but a slight bend in the left elbow does wonders.
Agreed. I’ve found that because your forearm has 2 parallel bones, the slight bend still allows the pressure to be supported by bones/ligaments at the elbow joint. Very different than your knee, where the second you put a bend in it your body weight is supported by muscles/tendons
 
What’s your wingspan, fingertip to fingertip? Mine is just shy of 73” and my draw length is 29 3/4”. 30” feels like my chest is expanded too much, and 29” felt like I was holding the bow open with my muscles. I set it at 29.5” and called it good, and it felt ok, but once I got to 29 3/4” I hit the sweet spot.

An easy way to adjust in 1/4” or so increments is to shorten your D loop. Every 1/2“ less loop string used lengthens your draw by 1/4”. A D loop pliers let’s you tie really small D loops. If it’s as short as it will go, and you need it shorter yet, an extra twist of the bow string (using a press), will adjust a small fraction of an inch.
Unofficially, GF isn't around to help at the moment, just about 77"
 
Not a compound archer, but I did spend a night in a Holiday Inn Express this week..... and I'm not even sure if it is important, but in my shooting sports (shotgun, crossbow and rifle) I push my weight forward so that it is not 50/50 on both feet, but maybe 60/40 front/back. Is this a "thing" in compound shooting?? The camera angle makes me wonder if you are leaning backwards, or maybe its just the camera angle.
 
Not a compound archer, but I did spend a night in a Holiday Inn Express this week..... and I'm not even sure if it is important, but in my shooting sports (shotgun, crossbow and rifle) I push my weight forward so that it is not 50/50 on both feet, but maybe 60/40 front/back. Is this a "thing" in compound shooting?? The camera angle makes me wonder if you are leaning backwards, or maybe its just the camera angle.
Hard to tell with camera angle, but I think what you are seeing is a slight backwards lean that is a result of a draw length that is too long.
 
I see a little backward lean, grip which was covered too and the trigger finger. Easy to make small adjustments with your release length.

It's tough to tell where your hips and feet are pointing, but the pictures make them look just a little off.
 
Great thread. I am new to bow hunting and the replies have helped me evaluate my posture.
 

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