Help me refinish my Model 70 featherweight

[MThuntr]

I've had this rifle for about 10 years. I'd like to clean it up. It's a Utah built featherweight in 270.

I have just about zero time this summer but would like it to look better. Where do I start?

 

[choc dogs]

You shouldn’t have to look at it. Trade me for my early 70’s vintage model 700 in 270 also

 

[choc dogs]

Real answer. I’ve had pretty good luck with citristrip on gun stocks.

 

[Nameless Range]

Keep scratching, dinging, and denting it up!

 

[p_ham]

Tape off your checkering with painters tape. Carefully cut out the outline with an exacto blade. Tape off your inletting and grip cap too if you'll be using a chemical stripper like citrustrip. Take your butt pad off.

You can apply citrustrip to help loosen the finish and gently scrape it off. Be careful not to dig in. There are videos available about scraping finish.

Once the finish is off you can address your scratches and dents. Steam out the dents, sand out the scratches. Make sure you use a backer (block) when sanding so you don't lose your crisp edges. Don't go any more aggressive than 150grit. Work your way up to 320grit, put your pad back on and check/adjust fit.

Apply finish of choice.

 

[Ben Lamb]

Keep scratching, dinging, and denting it up!

Tape off your checkering with painters tape. Carefully cut out the outline with an exacto blade. Tape off your inletting and grip cap too if you'll be using a chemical stripper like citrustrip. Take your butt pad off.

You can apply citrustrip to help loosen the finish and gently scrape it off. Be careful not to dig in. There are videos available about scraping finish.

Once the finish is off you can address your scratches and dents. Steam out the dents, sand out the scratches. Make sure you use a backer (block) when sanding so you don't lose your crisp edges. Don't go any more aggressive than 150grit. Work your way up to 320grit, put your pad back on and check/adjust fit.

Apply finish of choice.

Both of these are valid.

Also, oil finishes are better than varnish imo. You can just apply a new coat after the season & it spiffs the stock right up.

 

[Scott85]

To start I would send it to @p_ham for him to finish it for you.

 

[brocksw]

Both of these are valid.

Also, oil finishes are better than varnish imo. You can just apply a new coat after the season & it spiffs the stock right up.

Linseed?

 

[JLS]

Linseed?

I would use Tung Oil.

 

[Bambistew]

I've refinished a couple stocks. I'm hardly an expert, but they turned out ok. The last one I did was a $25 ebay special. It was sanded down and most of the checkering was gone. Then it had a light coat of oil on it. I stripped it all down. I bought a chekering kit and recut it all, it was pretty fun actually. Then I bubba'ed a M98 action into the M70 stock and fit the bottom metal. Had to take a hasp to the comb to get clearance in the bolt. Then filled any gaps (wasn't many, the actions are similar dimensions) with colored epoxy. The bolt cut out was pretty far off but it's not terriblly noticable when the bolt is closed.

I wet sanded trueoil into it about 3 coats and then finished with another 5 or 6. Probably had 20hrs of dinking around in it. It turned out pretty well for $25 and another $75 in parts and tools. I ordered a Boyds stock originally, and it was worse than my bubba smith work so I returned it.

Before finish and after.

 

[tarheel]

I've refinished a couple stocks. I'm hardly an expert, but they turned out ok. The last one I did was a $25 ebay special. It was sanded down and most of the checkering was gone. Then it had a light coat of oil on it. I stripped it all down. I bought a chekering kit and recut it all, it was pretty fun actually. Then I bubba'ed a M98 action into the M70 stock and fit the bottom metal. Had to take a hasp to the comb to get clearance in the bolt. Then filled any gaps (wasn't many, the actions are similar dimensions) with colored epoxy. The bolt cut out was pretty far off but it's not terriblly noticable when the bolt is closed.

I wet sanded trueoil into it about 3 coats and then finished with another 5 or 6. Probably had 20hrs of dinking around in it. It turned out pretty well for $25 and another $75 in parts and tools. I ordered a Boyds stock originally, and it was worse than my bubba smith work so I returned it.

Before finish and after.

View attachment 278111

Is that Mauser 8MM, rebarreled or wildcatted? Looks good, but that must have been a chore shoehorning that action in there, That's worthy of it's own thread.

 

[Bambistew]

Is that Mauser 8MM, rebarreled or wildcatted? Looks good, but that must have been a chore shoehorning that action in there, That's worthy of it's own thread.

it was a 9mmx57 that was to a 35Brown/Whelen. I have to swedge bullets from .358 to .356, plus dick around with making cases. If I didn't get it all (rifle/scope/2000 bullets, brass and dies) for $250 I'd never do it. I honestly wish it was just a 9 or 8x57.

It wasn't too hard to get it to fit, nothing a little epoxy couldn't fill. You'd be surprised how similar most all rifle action dimensions are.

Years ago put a pre-64 in a post featherweight stock. That's way easier. The pre action is like 0.1" shorter, but the bottom metal is a little different so I used a post 64 floor plate and trigger guard. The floor plate is a little longer, the trigger guard is a little wider, but same screw pattern. A file to the floor plate, and a little epoxy filler around the recoil lug and I was in business.

 

[crock239]

Following along to see how this turns out.

Just acquired a Franchi 48 AL that could use a stock refinishing, and was about to post the same question.

Does citristrip work well on all types of finishes?

 

[JLS]

Following along to see how this turns out.

Just acquired a Franchi 48 AL that could use a stock refinishing, and was about to post the same question.

Does citristrip work well on all types of finishes?

It should work fine on that factory finish. It did for my Beretta 391.

 

[huntnfisher]

Best of luck refinishing your Featherweight...well worth doing! I've always liked the Featherweights and finally bought a new one last year in .308 Win. Using Federal Non Typical 150 grain factory ammo, it is a tack driver.