I am fed up. This roofer i have hired is a hack and he is 2/3 done and i want to fire him but have a contract. This is the second time i caught him not putting down Ice and water sheild and the second time I caught him going over the old tar paper. It seems that this guy remembers nothing i say! I am not around during the day and I caught him going over the old valley flashing with new stuff. Then he was cutting the shit out of the valley with the trim knives because he didnt have hook blades. Literally creasing the steel and cutting throught he paint.
I have a contract for a tear off, Ice and water, and the usual. This is the letter i typed for him last thursday, and he was all apologetic and now its like he didnt remember any of it! Today i get home and look and there is Ice and water shield for the first 6 feet and then nothing but tar paper for the next 20 feet! I call hom and ask WFT? he said "Oh yea we ran out and i didnt notice my guys got ahead of me. I will get it under there tommorrow" I say WTF? you cant get ice and water shield up 3 feet under a completely laid section of roof! this guy is screwing me. So what would you guys do? What legal obligation do i have? I want either tell him to tear it oll off and do it over, or stiff him the complete add on for the ice and water shield.
Corey, here is a list of things that concern me on the roof job. Please do not take this the wrong way but if this was your house I do not think a lot of these things would be happening.
1; Tuesday I was concerned that the gutter aprons were not removed to get the weather barrier under it. You said that the old barrier was still good. I really don’t care, its 8 years old and I want it to last 40. You said you would put new barrier over the old stuff on that north garage side and have a double barrier, and I said that is fine, but it is not there. I told you that I wanted all the old valley removed from that day on, but today your guys tar papered up to the old valley again. Please remove that valley and do a complete tear off from this point on as out contract states. Please make sure that the overlap on the valleys are 8 inches as per manufacture spec, and a sealer used at the lap seam.
2 ; The small areas north of the porch was tar papered without any weather barrier. That area by the porch is a bad ice dam place every year. Please make sure the tar paper is pulled up and weather barrier is laid down.
3; The valley flashing is really looking poorly done. Stand on the ground (as it will be looked at for the next 40 years) and look up the valley on the south side of the garage. That is really sad looking. Please use a chalk line to get the cuts looking good. I am concerned that some shingles will need to be replaced as the manufacturers spec is that the shingle to valley bottom gap should not be more than 2 inches for water back up reasons.
You guys are not using hooked blades when cutting the shingles in the valleys. Take a look at the valley laid out above the porch, and you can see that the blade is cutting into the metal and literally creasing the metal. A 40 year roof is useless if the valleys rust out in a few years because the paint and galvanizing was cut and exposed the raw steel. I would suggest replacing that section and please be careful cutting it in the future. I use a hook blade for this to protect the underlying valley. I also placed a chalk line out for you guys to use when cutting the valley shingles. A few extra minutes makes a world of a difference in the appearance of the finished product.
I also placed my roof tear off tool out there if you guys want to use it. I used to use flat shovels as well but both work. The shingles on the north side of the house near the porch are showing signs of damage from being walked on, be careful with this. That was my concern I had the other day when I asked why you wouldn’t start the roof on the opposite end of the dumpster to not have any reason to walk over the new roof.
Please take extra time to make sure shingle seams do not line up less than every third row. There is a lot of areas that every other row has a lined up seam. These light shingles really show this more than dark ones, like the guys are putting on next door.
I hope this does not seem like I am whining but this is my home, and I want it done professionally.
I have a contract for a tear off, Ice and water, and the usual. This is the letter i typed for him last thursday, and he was all apologetic and now its like he didnt remember any of it! Today i get home and look and there is Ice and water shield for the first 6 feet and then nothing but tar paper for the next 20 feet! I call hom and ask WFT? he said "Oh yea we ran out and i didnt notice my guys got ahead of me. I will get it under there tommorrow" I say WTF? you cant get ice and water shield up 3 feet under a completely laid section of roof! this guy is screwing me. So what would you guys do? What legal obligation do i have? I want either tell him to tear it oll off and do it over, or stiff him the complete add on for the ice and water shield.
Corey, here is a list of things that concern me on the roof job. Please do not take this the wrong way but if this was your house I do not think a lot of these things would be happening.
1; Tuesday I was concerned that the gutter aprons were not removed to get the weather barrier under it. You said that the old barrier was still good. I really don’t care, its 8 years old and I want it to last 40. You said you would put new barrier over the old stuff on that north garage side and have a double barrier, and I said that is fine, but it is not there. I told you that I wanted all the old valley removed from that day on, but today your guys tar papered up to the old valley again. Please remove that valley and do a complete tear off from this point on as out contract states. Please make sure that the overlap on the valleys are 8 inches as per manufacture spec, and a sealer used at the lap seam.
2 ; The small areas north of the porch was tar papered without any weather barrier. That area by the porch is a bad ice dam place every year. Please make sure the tar paper is pulled up and weather barrier is laid down.
3; The valley flashing is really looking poorly done. Stand on the ground (as it will be looked at for the next 40 years) and look up the valley on the south side of the garage. That is really sad looking. Please use a chalk line to get the cuts looking good. I am concerned that some shingles will need to be replaced as the manufacturers spec is that the shingle to valley bottom gap should not be more than 2 inches for water back up reasons.
You guys are not using hooked blades when cutting the shingles in the valleys. Take a look at the valley laid out above the porch, and you can see that the blade is cutting into the metal and literally creasing the metal. A 40 year roof is useless if the valleys rust out in a few years because the paint and galvanizing was cut and exposed the raw steel. I would suggest replacing that section and please be careful cutting it in the future. I use a hook blade for this to protect the underlying valley. I also placed a chalk line out for you guys to use when cutting the valley shingles. A few extra minutes makes a world of a difference in the appearance of the finished product.
I also placed my roof tear off tool out there if you guys want to use it. I used to use flat shovels as well but both work. The shingles on the north side of the house near the porch are showing signs of damage from being walked on, be careful with this. That was my concern I had the other day when I asked why you wouldn’t start the roof on the opposite end of the dumpster to not have any reason to walk over the new roof.
Please take extra time to make sure shingle seams do not line up less than every third row. There is a lot of areas that every other row has a lined up seam. These light shingles really show this more than dark ones, like the guys are putting on next door.
I hope this does not seem like I am whining but this is my home, and I want it done professionally.
