Hey folks, I'm looking for some car advice here. I bought a 2010 Ford Focus brand new in December 2009 for a commuter car and I have put 318,000 miles on it in that time and up until yesterday I have only had to replace the valve cover gasket (twice), a throttle position senor, and the thermostat, everything else has just been routine maintenance. On the way to work yesterday morning my brake pedal went almost all the way to the floor, and I was hoping it was just a brake line, but my mechanic called this afternoon and said it was the rear brake cylinder and since most kits are sold in pairs, he said it would make sense to do both sides. Cost of repair is $1,200 and I have a 2016 Focus with the same motor and manual transmission just waiting to get tagged into service. I feel like common sense says to junk the 2010 but outside of this issue it runs like a top! What would you guys do in this situation?
Car Advice
- Thread starter accubond
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RoughCountry
Well-known member
That is a pretty simple fix and less than $50 in parts and some brake fluid. I’d find a different mechanic or get some high school kid to replace them and keep driving it. You can buy brake cylinders separately at any parts store.
This.
elkantlers
Well-known member
Something isn't right if they are quoting you that much. I would verify with them. I've replaced these on a few vehicles. Probably an hour job if you know what you are doing. If you get in that far I would replace the brakes as well.
This exactly. It’s amazing how many step by step videos are on YouTube.
I should have added that the 1,200 is for both sides to be completely redone and my mechanic said that for some reason these come with the wheel bearings as well? I looked up the parts and it does appear to be a larger assembly with bearings included.
Jamen
Well-known member
If you do not want to spend the $1,200 buy the parts yourself and use YouTube. If you cant get it, then scrap it if that's what you want to do. My dads friend who is a mechanic always says its cheaper to put a few hundred dollars into a paid off car than a monthly payment. I get yours is more than a few hundred, but in todays market even if you put $1,200 into it id assume you could sell it for more.
Gravelyctry
Well-known member
If your mechanic is ordering OEM parts, the OEM's usually don't have all service parts available individually. They package multiple items that are somewhat related to minimize the number of parts they have to maintain in stock, increase the volume of parts kits sold, and improve profits on what could otherwise be slow moving assets.
Aftermarket parts are available differently and have much better pricing. I agree with the guys above - there's lots of great information out there about how to do it. I'd only replace the parts you need to replace to keep it running. My Camry has 328k miles on it and still runs great, but I don't spend money to fix things that aren't broke.
Also, hourly shop rates in my area are around $100/hour. That means even pretty minor issues can become costly if the time runs over. I'm not sure where your at, but if your 2010 is pretty rusty, it might take the shop longer than they anticipate if some of the rusty hardware doesn't come out as nicely as they would have hoped. That could drive the bill up even more.
Take a shot at doing the work yourself. There's lots of information available on the web. If you do screw it up, you're only out $50 in parts and you can still take it to the mechanic.
Best of luck,
Neil
Aftermarket parts are available differently and have much better pricing. I agree with the guys above - there's lots of great information out there about how to do it. I'd only replace the parts you need to replace to keep it running. My Camry has 328k miles on it and still runs great, but I don't spend money to fix things that aren't broke.
Also, hourly shop rates in my area are around $100/hour. That means even pretty minor issues can become costly if the time runs over. I'm not sure where your at, but if your 2010 is pretty rusty, it might take the shop longer than they anticipate if some of the rusty hardware doesn't come out as nicely as they would have hoped. That could drive the bill up even more.
Take a shot at doing the work yourself. There's lots of information available on the web. If you do screw it up, you're only out $50 in parts and you can still take it to the mechanic.
Best of luck,
Neil
I don't think I could get more than $500 for it due to the amount of rust. I live in MN and have only washed the car 3 times in 15+ years (I always figured the car would fail mechanically before the seat fell through the floor, but it just keeps running) so the body rot is substantial but mecanically, I would drive this car to CA right now and not think twice.
It's VERY rusty (been washed 3 times in 15+ years) but these are not your typical braje cyliners, it's some kind of weird assembly that also comes with the wheel bearings?
Jamen
Well-known member
Thats fair then. I would then ask myself this question. If you scrap it can you replace it for $1,200 with a car that is as reliable or more than your current one. If the answer is yes i would scrap it, if no id fix and keep driving.
This makes a lot of sense, thank you!
Bow Bullet
Well-known member
I looked on RockAuto and all it shows for the rear brakes are simple drum parts. The wheel cylinder posted above is nothing special. If you aren't wanting to do it yourself, at a minimum I'd get a second opinion.
From a body rot standpoint, it's a junker, but from a mechanical standpoint it's worth it and that's has me so conflicted.
I get it. And you’re the original owner, which makes it even harder to send it on down the road.
I just personally hate that feeling of “is this the day something else breaks?” That crap always seems to happen when it’s the least convenient, too. Ha
EastTNHunter
Well-known member
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- Jun 13, 2018
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Don’t make decisions with your feels.
I’m the kind of guy who does as much of the work as I can for myself. Part of it is that I’m cheap, part of it is just the way that I was raised to not pay someone else to do something that I can do myself. Makes me feel lazy, even though I work hard and it would definitely make better sense sometimes. All that being said I also am the type that tries to keep a vehicle running as long as I can because that almost always is the most prudent financial decision to make based upon monetary outlay. I may have taken this just a bit too far at times, but thank God I have rarely been left with a catastrophic failure that so many people make decisions based upon the fear of that happening…
But I also try to keep a backup/work/hunting vehicle around in case something major happens, and it sounds like the OP has that covered as well
