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Canoe Suggestions

idahofishnhunt

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Location
Southwest Idaho
I've been thinking about getting a canoe for a few years now. Something that would be easy to pack on the car and take camping, and I know the family would love having one, maybe even something I could take myself across the river to access some ground that otherwise would be inaccessible. I'd love to hear what you have if you have one so I can get a better idea of the models out there and what your opinion is of them...cause anyone that has one, has more experience with them then I do. Thanks!
 
Just depends on the person and the water you will be using it on. I have several and they are used for different conditions. For a beginner, I would say you will want something a little wider and that has a keel. . .both will keep you from feeling "tippy". For a really rocky river where you know its going to bang on stuff. . .some type of plastic/poly type will slide over very nice. . . . for big open water and for load capabilities I like the big 17' Grumman aluminum's or my favorite for the BWCA is my Minnesota 2 it is super light kevlar and man is it nice on those portages (money well spent). I still think its hard to beat a good aluminum canoe for all around stuff. Just my opinions. . . .but go buy one you will love it. Good luck.:D
 
I've paddled many canoes. Paddling wise, I can honestly say there is very little difference between cheap and high end canoes. The shape is what makes a canoe a canoe, not the builder or material it's made of.

It just depends on your priorities and budget. Length, weight(of the canoe itself), load capacity, durability, function, and shape are the main categories.

My only input is to consider the seat locations if you are going to paddle solo. I'd look for a configuration that has the front seat further back from the bow. This way, with a partner you paddle(the traditional) bow forward. When solo you spin the canoe 180°, and paddle stern forward with your weight distributed better.

An example of what I'm trying to describe:
774136E7-2EC5-4BA4-A1FF-9BD3ABAABA63-26728-000018CCC4731933.jpg
 
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We have an older (10-year old) Coleman. For as much as we get to use it, was the way to go. Thing has been swamped, turtled, you name it. Grandkids don't get to take it out by themselves until they go through it. I did buy a cheap canoe dolly to use if the water is a ways off and has been worth it's weight in gold by not having to make several trips back and forth to the truck for fishing gear..
 
Ive got a scanoe, made by pelican. It's pretty stable, but a heavy sob. I have some wheels on an axle I bungie to roll it cause its too damn heavy. On the other hand I can jump my fatass into the end and not capsize it. A 3.5 hp mercury will push it upstream most places on the snake, and a lot of the boise.
 
We have two canoes.Our We-no-nah Spirit II is the family canoe.I bought a used one made with tuff weave for $450.Its seventeen feet.This canoe has been perfect.We have paddled all the local rivers and lakes,but also done some back country over night canoe trips.You need to decide what your primary goal would be... family outings,flat water rivers,lakes,maybe more technical river waters.I don't agree with the comment that canoes made of different materials but similar hull designs are mostly the same.There is a huge difference .They glide differently and behave differently in wind based on weight and friction.Weight could matter if you have to portage,but even loading on and off a vehicle.Many good paddling sites out there with comprehensive comparisons on crafts.To simplify,decide on a primary need: flatwater paddling where tracking is preferred,or moving water where responsive navigation is necessary.These two different needs are based upon hull design.Big difference between a flat water boat and a river boat.The second quality of a boat is the secondary stability.Primary stability is how stable the craft feels when simply sitting in it paddling.Secondary stability is a measure of the boat hull when it is subject to an aggressive lean-over action.(how far can it roll before going all the way).Typically lake boats have a high secondary stability, and designated river boats have a lower secondary stability.I am not an expert,but after researching canoes for myself,these simple qualifications DO separate boats from one another.The Spirit II is an awesome multi-functional canoe.If you just want some beater,sure go aluminum.:D
 
I've got a Novacraft Cronje (google it), 17ft.

Great boat and a compromise in weight and durability between the ultralight and not so light materials. Its a Royalex light, and weighs about 60lb. We've used it on several boundary waters trips and it performs excellently. It has the front seat positioned towards the rear slightly, so it can be paddled solo when sitting reverse on in the front.

It has a 1000lb capacity, so it could be used to haul a ton of hunting gear in/out of a place or a couple of big bucks that you shoot. Its pretty stable, we take our dog everywhere in it.

So I'd suggest you think about what the primary use will be, then research the different designs and figure out the style that will suit you. You wouldn't want to end up with an inefficient boat on a 100-mile trip, if you get my drift. There are a good number of 'generalist' type boats out there.

good luck.
 

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