Advertisement

Canceled weekend...Bearing Edition

Not totally related to Mthuntr's issues, but with folks expressing differing opinions on make/model, something I think about often is the lifespan of a vehicle measured in miles, which I think is by far the most useful metric.

If you sift out opinions and even reputation, there are some interesting studies out there. One such study is the 2022 iseecars analysis. There's others, and far as I can tell they all come out with similar results. This was an analysis of over 2 million used gas rigs. Of course there is more nuance in terms of year/engine/capability/fuel costs/repair costs/etc. But it tells an interesting story.

1697029515850.png

This is the result for trucks:

1697029618416.png
So according to their analysis, a reasonable expectation for the life of a Taco vs an F-150 is a difference of about 3k miles. Compare that with what you'd think most folks would assume based on the reputation of Toyotas, which absolutely do shine in these studies but maybe not relatively as much as you'd think. These studies certainly make me roll my eyes at guys asking a premium on a vehicles with mileage around 200k.
 
Last edited:
Some folks like losing time and money I suppose.
I might consider a Tundra down the road. The previous generation didn't quite do it for me and I learned my lesson on buying new generation on year 1. So far the only $ I've spent on the Ford that isn't related to standard maintenance (oil, brake pads, etc) was this wheel hub @$250 and about 2hrs of my time. I learned that once a hub changed once it's really only like a 25 minute process.

I did spend an unwanted number of Saturdays at Bozeman Toyota having them fix on things with the Taco. Seems like an exaggeration but it was a nightmare. The scariest when the truck decided to downshift at on flat highway speeds. The straw that broke the camel's back was the suspension squeaked. I assumed it was something from being new...technician said it was an issue with all of the bushings and was caused by dust on an offroad vehicle. Their fix was cleaning it out and spraying in graphite which was negated every time the truck got wet. They said I'd have to take it in for them to put the rig on a lift so they could spray it again.

Back to the issue, a new wheel hub will be delivered today. I'm not installing it and have a FordMotor hub ordered. In the meantime some people on different forums suggested it could be an electrical error and to install the old hub's wheel speed sensor first because maybe there's a glitch with NAPA brand.
 
I might consider a Tundra down the road. The previous generation didn't quite do it for me and I learned my lesson on buying new generation on year 1. So far the only $ I've spent on the Ford that isn't related to standard maintenance (oil, brake pads, etc) was this wheel hub @$250 and about 2hrs of my time. I learned that once a hub changed once it's really only like a 25 minute process.

I did spend an unwanted number of Saturdays at Bozeman Toyota having them fix on things with the Taco. Seems like an exaggeration but it was a nightmare. The scariest when the truck decided to downshift at on flat highway speeds. The straw that broke the camel's back was the suspension squeaked. I assumed it was something from being new...technician said it was an issue with all of the bushings and was caused by dust on an offroad vehicle. Their fix was cleaning it out and spraying in graphite which was negated every time the truck got wet. They said I'd have to take it in for them to put the rig on a lift so they could spray it again.

Back to the issue, a new wheel hub will be delivered today. I'm not installing it and have a FordMotor hub ordered. In the meantime some people on different forums suggested it could be an electrical error and to install the old hub's wheel speed sensor first because maybe there's a glitch with NAPA brand.
I'm going to eat my words a bit but I would actually not own one of the new tundras. For some reason the QC fell off big time with the new model. The first three gens... dang near infallible in my opinion.
Glad you like your foreign rig. mtmuley
As to mr. fussy's comment about it being a foreign vehicle... I'll continue to drive my tundra and tacoma, the tundra being the most "American made" truck on the market. Take a breath muley, i'm just busting Grant's balls as he's a buddy of mine. Other than my Toyotas I have three Fords sitting in my shop.
 
I'm going to eat my words a bit but I would actually not own one of the new tundras. For some reason the QC fell off big time with the new model. The first three gens... dang near infallible in my opinion.

As to mr. fussy's comment about it being a foreign vehicle... I'll continue to drive my tundra and tacoma, the tundra being the most "American made" truck on the market. Take a breath muley, i'm just busting Grant's balls as he's a buddy of mine. Other than my Toyotas I have three Fords sitting in my shop.
Thanks for taking those samples to be tested for me. I guess I didn't know you had any Fords. I'm going to have to give you more heck for not driving them more often.

Yeah wasn't the Tundra made in Texas? I think that the new generations of Tacoma and Tundra both have some bad QC and of course my '16 was one of the first few off the line. Yes it was technically an American made truck...partially in Texas and partially in Mexico. I think they ramped up production and things got overlooked. Admittedly, I saw some pretty questionable build quality issues with just about every vehicle I've owned since 2000. I wish I could have my old square body Chevy back because that thing was an animal.
 
Well 1 year after replacement of the original hardware, I'm getting sensor alerts again. :mad: I can clear the code by unhooking the ABS wires from the drivers side wheel hub but it's only temporary.

Calling Ford in the morning to see if the OEM parts are available.
One thing I've found on numerous unit bearing replacements. Buy Moog, Timken, or OEM. If the only problem is the unit itself, leave the OEM sensor attached to the vehicle and install it into the new unit, do not use the new sensor in the box. If you are getting ABS/traction/stability warnings, and the problem is the sensor, only replace it with an OEM sensor. The aftermarket sensors really seem to have a high failure rate, and there rarely is a reason for them to be replaced.
 
One thing I've found on numerous unit bearing replacements. Buy Moog, Timken, or OEM. If the only problem is the unit itself, leave the OEM sensor attached to the vehicle and install it into the new unit, do not use the new sensor in the box. If you are getting ABS/traction/stability warnings, and the problem is the sensor, only replace it with an OEM sensor. The aftermarket sensors really seem to have a high failure rate, and there rarely is a reason for them to be replaced.
Funny you say that because I put the factory sensor on the NAPA part (true manufacturer unknown) and the issue went away. The OEM system was delivered yesterday so I'll hang onto it for a few days to see if the error comes back. Easy fix if it works. Had to remove brake caliper and rotor to get to the little 5mm screw that holds in the sensor but 25 minutes from start to finish and I was back on the road to test.
 
Back
Top