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Camper must have's

midwesthunter

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Joined
Dec 7, 2015
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726
Location
Northern IN
I will be building a small toy hauler TT camper. Will have an approx 11' garage. I plan to have 4 fold down bunks, a legit bathroom (toilet, shower sink) small kitchen, will have a 1-2 burner stove top, microwave, small fridge, small sink. I'm not planning on having a heater or AC and going to use an instant water heater. For heat will use a buddy heater with some 12V fans.

What are some other "must haves" for a camper?

I have the luxury of designing and building my own as I work in the RV industry in northern IN, the RV capital of the world.
 
I will be building a small toy hauler TT camper. Will have an approx 11' garage. I plan to have 4 fold down bunks, a legit bathroom (toilet, shower sink) small kitchen, will have a 1-2 burner stove top, microwave, small fridge, small sink. I'm not planning on having a heater or AC and going to use an instant water heater. For heat will use a buddy heater with some 12V fans.

What are some other "must haves" for a camper?

I have the luxury of designing and building my own as I work in the RV industry in northern IN, the RV capital of the world.
Small solar panel for lights
I use an old area rug to set up outside the main door to sit/relax on so we dont track as much dirt and stuff inside.
We dont cook much inside, mostly outside cooking.
 
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The most important thing in my camper for hunting in Montana is the furnace. The camper is an oldie but in very good shape (1988 Terry) and furnace was problematic this year. Pilot kept going out. Had to rely on electric space heater and that was a pain. Either too hot at night or not hot enough. Finally figured out how to readjust pilot and then thermostaically controlled heat made a world of difference in sleeping comfort.

You will of course need ceiling vents. Make some snap on foam covers for inside to block them off as needed. Otherwise they'll slobber condensation on everyone in the morning.

Don't skimp on the fridge. Get as large as you can fit in the trailer. 3-way is the only way. Anytime the temp outside drops to 15 degrees switch to propane. The ammonia gas in RV fridges stops working when it gets real cold and then stuff in freezer compartment starts to thaw (been there!). Switching to propane provides enough heat to back side of fridge to make the gas work.

I would suggest you consider wiring it with 110V converter.

My trailer has storm windows that can be installed for cold weather use. Very nice!
 
I feel like you are the expert being in the industry already. Unless you are trying to design a stripped down "dirtbag" model for Western Hunters.
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I'd look at what the Camper Vans offer as a base and then add what the extra room of a trailer allows you to have.

As for batteries, The dispersed camping area I was at this Fall had the RV trailers running their generators all night because the Cold sucked their batteries down and the heater fans didn't have enough juice to run. That seems like an important bottle neck to address.

I'd also compare to popup camper trailers on the market. No point in reinventing the wheel.
 
If I was building a camper from a hauling trailer I would make sure there was an awning over the door, if $$$ allowed, being able to "wall" it in with tarps. I like keeping my hunting clothes outside and not having to bring them in saves room. Set up some type of coat rack.

Plus being able to kick your boots off before entering out of the weather is nice
 
I feel like you are the expert being in the industry already. Unless you are trying to design a stripped down "dirtbag" model for Western Hunters.
View attachment 165717

I'd look at what the Camper Vans offer as a base and then add what the extra room of a trailer allows you to have.

As for batteries, The dispersed camping area I was at this Fall had the RV trailers running their generators all night because the Cold sucked their batteries down and the heater fans didn't have enough juice to run. That seems like an important bottle neck to address.

I'd also compare to popup camper trailers on the market. No point in reinventing the wheel.

I guess you could say we are the "experts" I will say this will probably be the strongest built trailer out there.

The problem with the industry is none of the big guys build a unit marketed towards hunters. Sure there are some who are making off road style trailers and plenty of toy haulers out there. But the only rv camping I have done was as a child, I have always been a tent camper. We have the basics needs for a camper covered, I was more interested in those who use a camper for a base hunt camp, what features have they added or wish they had?
 
For me, I wouldn't rely on a buddy heater. Get a forced air furnace. Wall mounted tstat is way nice. Also, a buddy heater will add moisture to the air in the camper which is a pain. Forced air furnace vents all of that outside.


After that, think hard about insulation and bottom insulation for piping. If you are going to be camping in winter weather (usually hunting season is in and around that time) being able to use fresh water is pretty nice. I don't have a well insulated and heated bottom, so I run RV antifreeze during the hunting season to be able to flush the toilet. After that I just use bottle water for everything.


Batteries, I get by with 1 battery, but if you aren't going to have a generator to fill them up while you cook dinner and what not, you may want space for additional batteries. I wish I had a place to store the generator on the outside of the camper personally. I end up chaining it to the bumper, but being able to mount it to the camper would be slick in my mind.



Lastly, don't go so large that you can't get the camper into locations you want to bring it. The larger you go, the less you can take it off road, keep that in the back of your mind.
 
Multiple tie downs.

Closet/cabinet space.

Outside spigot for water and outlet for electricity.
 
Prairie goat makes several good points. Goes without saying that you should use flex plumbing. My trailer was replumbed with it. I'm guessing the previous owner didn't get things blown out properly and original 1988 plumbing froze and broke. I would suggest keeping the water plumbing inside the trailer as much as possible.

If you live in an area that has rodent issues, consider reinforcing pass through points (wiring, plumbing, etc.) with sheet metal shields so the little basturds don't chew their way in when trailer is in storage over winter.

I shielded the hookup wiring to hauling unit on the tongue and under the trailer with PVC conduit to protect from flying road gravel.

Having the generator built in is convenient ... until you need to work on it. And there's the noise factor. Also uses up valuable trailer space. I don't mess with a generator because I'm usually set up in an electrified campground and drive to hunting area. If you need a generator I would transport it in the pickup and set it up away from the trailer.

A hood over the range may sound frivolous but it is important for ensuring ventilation with propane burners. Also helps a lot keeping the place clean and cool in summer. 12V should be available at RV joints. They easily vent out the wall. A ceiling vent with fan is essential in bathroom. It also helps a lot cooling the trailer down if needed.
 
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I think it is a fine line between "a trailer you can camp in" and an RV. To me that line is inside plumbing.

At some point you are reinventing the wheel and you might as well just spend the money on a toyhauler.

I'm part of a group that has a shower in the front of a converted 16 ft horse trailer while the back 2/3rd hauls the awning , tables chairs, and booze for an annual summer gathering. We have rebuilt that shower system at least 3x. RV water heaters are a bitch and the water pumps are finicky. Much of the back storage is taken up by the water tank and generator.

I've chosen to put the time and money into a wall tent setup that can always be bare bones if we pack in or have amenities added for a truck camp.

I like the idea of a well insulated trailer you can use as a cargo trailer in the off season then load up a cot or two and a heater. I think I'd put the Wall tent outside the door adjoining it and have a wood burner and cooking setup in it with cots in the trailer.

I'll have to think about a modular shower system though. For Week plus long camps, that's gonna be essential...
 
I think it is a fine line between "a trailer you can camp in" and an RV. To me that line is inside plumbing.

At some point you are reinventing the wheel and you might as well just spend the money on a toyhauler.

I'm part of a group that has a shower in the front of a converted 16 ft horse trailer while the back 2/3rd hauls the awning , tables chairs, and booze for an annual summer gathering. We have rebuilt that shower system at least 3x. RV water heaters are a bitch and the water pumps are finicky. Much of the back storage is taken up by the water tank and generator.

I've chosen to put the time and money into a wall tent setup that can always be bare bones if we pack in or have amenities added for a truck camp.

I like the idea of a well insulated trailer you can use as a cargo trailer in the off season then load up a cot or two and a heater. I think I'd put the Wall tent outside the door adjoining it and have a wood burner and cooking setup in it with cots in the trailer.

I'll have to think about a modular shower system though. For Week plus long camps, that's gonna be essential...
Good point about the 12V water pump. Make that accessible because they don't seem to last long and will have to be replaced. My trailer has tub/shower but I never use it. Shower facilities are always available at campground. When I camped in my wall tent, I used an enameled bucket to clean up. Set it on top of the wood stove to heat up. After done with sponge bath my head just fit inside the bucket for shampooing. But the rinse was always with cold water. Worked okay but sometimes difficult to breathe when my testicles crawled up inside my lungs.

The on demand water heater is an interesting idea. I'm wondering about fuel consumption and potential fire hazard (presumably it will be propane?). Don't those things get pretty hot?
 
I’ve done this and I plan on redoing it. Using wood to build it out takes up valuable pounds. It may be fine to tow but when you add in water, supplies, and a ATV you quickly max out the axles. If your successful on your trip a couple hundred pounds of meat and caked on gumbo extra to take out bearings on your way home. Been there and done that. The new version will be welded aluminum square tubing to go along with 5200lbs axles.
 

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