Broken drill bit removal in rifle stock

[huntin24/7]

I got a cheek riser kit for my seekins synthetic stock. It came with an 1/8” drill bit. I was careful, but it snapped flush with the top of stock on the second hole. Anyone have a good idea for removal without damaging the stock, or am I better off leaving it in and moving my riser a bit and redrilling with a new bit?

 

[WapitiBob]

needle nose pliers and twist it out in reverse

 

[huntin24/7]

needle nose pliers and twist it out in reverse

I tried that, but it’s flush to the point I can’t grip any of it. I guess I could maybe dig around the edge just enough to grip it possibly.

 

[44hunter45]

Which stock? If it is the HAVAK PH2 or Element you might be able to drive it in with a punch and pull the butt pad to retrieve it. Are you through the side wall of the plastic stock already?

There are screw removal bits that will cut a donut around the end of the bit to allow you to get a grip on it. Available cheap on Amazon or at the orange store. You could fill the hole with Locktite BlackMax or other CA or epoxy product.

This should all be covered by the cheekpad. You need to make sure there would be enough material thickness in the stock to bite on the 1/8 screw.

 

[Forkyfinder]

I tried that, but it’s flush to the point I can’t grip any of it. I guess I could maybe dig around the edge just enough to grip it possibly.

Pics?

 

[huntin24/7]

I’ll post a pic tomorrow. Had something I had to go to the rest of the night.

 

[mtmuley]

Which stock? If it is the HAVAK PH2 or Element you might be able to drive it in with a punch and pull the butt pad to retrieve it. Are you trough the side wall of the plastic stock already?

There are screw removal bits that will cut a donut around the end of the bit to allow you to get a grip on it. Available cheap on Amazon or at the orange store. You could fill the hole with Locktite BlackMax or other CA of epoxy product.

This should all be covered by the cheekpad. You need to make sure there would be enough material thickness in the stock to bite on the 1/8 screw.

Most times the screw removal tools are softer than the drill bit. If the OP can carve around the bit to get some small side cutters around it, it may come out. Never pulled one our of a gun stock, but have out of white oak doors a time or two. mtmuley

 

[huntin24/7]

It’s the Havak ph2.

I was working on kinda carving it out just enough to get a grip on it. Haven’t got there yet.

 

[44hunter45]

Most times the screw removal tools are softer than the drill bit. If the OP can carve around the bit to get some small side cutters around it, it may come out. Never pulled one our of a gun stock, but have out of white oak doors a time or two. mtmuley

I'm talking about the ones that remove materiel AROUND the bit/screw. I have these for the drill press and with a 1/4 hex shank for quick jobs with a ratchet screwdriver

Amazon.com : plug cutter bit 1/8

 

[Nutrioso]

Try a leather punch slightly larger that the diameter of the bit. Give it a solid whack and that may displace enough material from around the bit to allow you to grip it with pliers.

 

[mtmuley]

I'm talking about the ones that remove materiel AROUND the bit/screw. I have these for the drill press and with a 1/4 hex shank for quick jobs with a ratchet screwdriver

Amazon.com : plug cutter bit 1/8

I understood. Those are a bitch to hold steady without a press. I have a full set. mtmuley

 

[Cogreeny]

My idea is maybe crazy but I’ve used it a lot on heavy machinery. Get 1/8” plain steel hex nut. Put it over the drill bit and ever so quickly on low heat tack the nut to the drill bit with a wire feed or tig welder. Grab the nut with pliers pull it out. Maybe tape off the area completely around the drill bit to prevent heat on the stock. I think it would work and no gouging of the stock.

 

[Maverick1]

Try a reverse drill bit set. They make them specifically for removing screws that snap off. Might be a bit difficult to drill into a snapped off drill bit, but perhaps worth a try. If that does not work, perhaps think about using a small diameter hole saw and filling in the spot with some wood filler and stain to match.

 

[Sytes]

It's flat flush with the stock? Either widdle away at the stock to provide enough grip or move on, space permitting.

If the hole placement is vital, widdle away. If not and it's covered by the riser, move on w/ new hole using a press and lock the stock down. The slight angled movement operating a handheld drill can pinch the bit just enough to snap.
If you used a press - I'm at a loss other than one heck of a cheap bit.

Best with your decision. Always a cringe bite when something simple throws a curve ball.

 

[HiMtnHntr]

If the bit is tight in there you could leave it and shift your riser slightly. If your butt stock is hollow and you’re able to get the recoil pad off, tap it through and it will likely come out the back. Or, perhaps you can reach it will something once the recoil pad is removed?

If you’re set on getting it out from the top you’ll likely suffer some cosmetic damage, which could be remedied with the right epoxy.

 

[rjthehunter]

Try a reverse drill bit set. They make them specifically for removing screws that snap off. Might be a bit difficult to drill into a snapped off drill bit, but perhaps worth a try. If that does not work, perhaps think about using a small diameter hole saw and filling in the spot with some wood filler and stain to match.

You won't drill in to a drill bit... especially a 1/8" bit.

Best bet is getting ahold of it with pliers or cutters. I imaging the cheek riser will cover the area around the hole?

 

[Flatbrimmer]

 

[pawhitetail]

My idea is maybe crazy but I’ve used it a lot on heavy machinery. Get 1/8” plain steel hex nut. Put it over the drill bit and ever so quickly on low heat tack the nut to the drill bit with a wire feed or tig welder. Grab the nut with pliers pull it out. Maybe tape off the area completely around the drill bit to prevent heat on the stock. I think it would work and no gouging of the stock.

I was going to reply with something similar. Wet some paper towels and put around the bit before you weld it. Nuts are usually kind of thick and usually coated and it takes a bit of heat to get a decent weld. I'd take a piece of flat stock about 1/8" thick and drill an 1/8" hole in it and weld it fast. Could even tack it with a mig. Once it's welded decent I'd try unscrewing it out

 

[grizzly63]

Put a small amount of JB weld on the other end of that broken bit and try to weld it to the broke section. Put tape or some kind of release agent around the hole to avoid sticking to stuff. GIve it cure time and twist pull it out. Lets see what our resident Gunsmith pro says.

 

[Arcola]

Put a small amount of JB weld on the other end of that broken bit and try to weld it to the broke section. Put tape or some kind of release agent around the hole to avoid sticking to stuff. GIve it cure time and twist pull it out. Lets see what our resident Gunsmith pro says.

I would certainly try this first. Keys being lots of release agent everywhere you don’t want the jb weld forever. Get the 24 hour stuff and let it set up properly. Lastly, I’d probably use something larger than the broken shank of the drill bit.

If you have access to a welder, the suggestion above about a 1/8” hole in plate steel is probably your best bet.