broad head problem

[old man]

Been shooting aluminum arrows for many years with never a problem tuning with broad heads, however I can't seem to be able to shoot any of the carbon arrows accurately with any fixed blade broad head. any suggestions?

 

[Carnage2011]

I would say it's more of a bow tuning issue than an arrow issue. I'd start the process of tuning and see if you can make some progress.

 

[old man]

No problem with carbon arrows with field points.

 

[Doublecluck]

Carbon arrows are typically lighter and smaller diameter which is why they are effected more by a fixed broadhead. Assuming your knock point is square, and you are shooting the right spline carbon for your bow? What’s the paper tune look like?

 

[Carnage2011]

No problem with carbon arrows with field points.

So I'd say it's definitely a tuning issue. Broadhead tune and you should be set.

 

[406LIFE]

Braodhead tune. If that doesn't fix, switch broadheads. I have shot 3 different brands before I found one I could group.

 

[SisuHunter]

If your rest is centered correctly and nock height is right, it is probably an arrow issue. There may be too much or little spine for the draw weight. Try to paper tune to see how it tears. That will give you an idea of the issue you are looking at. From there you could potentially adjust arrow length or field point and broadhead weight. If that doesn’t work, you may need different spined arrows. Google paper tuning to interpret how the arrow tears. When in doubt a pro shops expertise is well worth the money.

 

[JohnCushman]

Are you shooting consistently in the wrong place or just all over the place? I ask because I had an experience with Muzzy MX4's where they consistently hit low left, whereas my shuttle T's and slick tricks were dead on.

 

[JLS]

If your rest is centered correctly and nock height is right, it is probably an arrow issue. There may be too much or little spine for the draw weight. Try to paper tune to see how it tears. That will give you an idea of the issue you are looking at. From there you could potentially adjust arrow length or field point and broadhead weight. If that doesn’t work, you may need different spined arrows. Google paper tuning to interpret how the arrow tears. When in doubt a pro shops expertise is well worth the money.

Not necessarily so, there could be a cam lean issue. From the posed question, it's nearly impossible to give sound advice that is specific. I would, in this order:

1) Have a reliable pro shop check timing and cam lean, and check center shot/nock height
2) Paper tune, checking for proper grip with no grip torque
3) Broadhead tune

Things to consider, how old is the string? What spine are the arrows? What weight are the BHs/FPs? Are your arrows straight fletched, or do they have helical/offset vanes?

 

[Sytes]

Are you shooting consistently in the wrong place or just all over the place? I ask because I had an experience with Muzzy MX4's where they consistently hit low left, whereas my shuttle T's and slick tricks were dead on.

Huh! That might be my issue... I shoot muzzy's and my grouping was off to the low right. Corrected @ 40 then a slight movement either degree off center depending on proximity to the target. I chalked it up to just lack of consistent shooting... All pretty tight though it always struck a bit interesting how my shot placement was mostly diagonal about 120* --- 300*...

 

[mdhunter]

Is your new set up the same total weight? I always found it was a tuning issue. That, and make sure you vanes and blades line up.

 

[JLS]

Huh! That might be my issue... I shoot muzzy's and my grouping was off to the low right. Corrected @ 40 then a slight movement either degree off center depending on proximity to the target. I chalked it up to just lack of consistent shooting... All pretty tight though it always struck a bit interesting how my shot placement was mostly diagonal about 120* --- 300*...

This could also be indicative of a subtle torque issue, either from your grip hand or your release hand. Usually most well made broadheads will shoot from a tuned bow without adjustment.

Sometimes it's a simple matter of surface are on the blades that make one BH plane more than another. Both Shuttle T and Slick Trick have very low surface areas.

 

[JLS]

make sure you vanes and blades line up.

Not a factor.

 

[Redman]

Out of everything posted here I would check the quick and simple thing first. Your new carbon arrows. You had no problem with your aluminum arrows shooting broadheads fine so I would guess you might have an arrow spine issue that isn't right for your set up. The next thing would be your arrow rest adjustment. Smaller diameter arrows set different on your rest. You may have to move your knocking point down.

 

[N2TRKYS]

Once my bow was tuned, I've never had to move my sights for my broadheads. My broadheads hit the same as my field points. The only thing I do is spin my arrows in my hand to make sure they spin smooth.

 

[old man]

I should say these carbon arrows are being shot from a different bow and the spine is correct . tried 3 different broad heads and all shoot about 3 inch to the right of field tips.

 

[Bigjav]

Try spinning them on an arrow spinner first to see if there’s any wobble. If not it might be that you need to Broadhead tune by moving the rest

 

[JLS]

I should say these carbon arrows are being shot from a different bow and the spine is correct . tried 3 different broad heads and all shoot about 3 inch to the right of field tips.

Move your rest about 1 mm to the left and see if your groups come together.

 

[Redman]

What rest are you using? What arrow are you shooting and what is it fletched with?

 

[jvanhoy]

Move your rest about 1 mm to the left and see if your groups come together.

This. Than a good walk back tune.