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Yes a cable cutter will cut through a snare like butter.Good reminder for everyone. I also carry a cable cutter in my vest as well.
Cable Cutter
If coni’s are such a risk where you hunt might be worth carrying trap setters in your vest. Trap setters have that coni open in two seconds where a rope would be much longerCompared to losing a dog, conibear traps are pretty cheap. Buying a 220 to keep on hand to practice with a few times before each season would be money well spent, in my opinion. Then keep a cable cutter and rope with you at all times and you should be in pretty good shape.
Can you show a picture of a trap setter or a link to where one could be bought? I carry heavy cable ties but speed and effectiveness with a struggling dog makes me doubtful.If coni’s are such a risk where you hunt might be worth carrying trap setters in your vest. Trap setters have that coni open in two seconds where a rope would be much longer
Can you show a picture of a trap setter or a link to where one could be bought? I carry heavy cable ties but speed and effectiveness with a struggling dog makes me doubtful.
I purchased some cheap cable cutters made for hunters. wish I could remember where. They go through snares like nothing. Multitools might - I have heard of them working, one time, with adrenaline flowing.
True, but after a long day of walking someone is a lot more likely to ditch a heavy clumsy set of trap setters than a light section of rope with a loop tied on one end. With practice it should take under a minute to disable a 220 conibear with a rope. You only have to latch one spring. The other you can just compress. But I do agree, a setters would be quicker.If coni’s are such a risk where you hunt might be worth carrying trap setters in your vest. Trap setters have that coni open in two seconds where a rope would be much longer
I would take snares over connis. A dog trained on leash won’t freak out and choke themselves out like a coyote.These are some cheap ones I have been using:
I took trapper education over the summer. Fantastic and in depth class with a real emphasis on ethics and trapping in such a way to avoid giving trapping bad PR.
There were 7 instructors, and essentially every one was down on snares. A bit too indescrimanate and a bit too fatal. Though they are legal, they really kind of dissuaded their use in most instances.
In Montana, conibear (body gripping) land sets have regulations associated with them (size limitations, trigger setbacks, enclosure requirements) to reduce the likelihood of bad situations.
Good info. Thanks for posting. I'll add cable cutter to my Christmas list.
I hope to never find out how it works. I hate those damn things.Good info. Thanks for posting. I'll add cable cutter to my Christmas list.
@BrentD I did a quick search for a vid on opening conibear w zip ties and didn't find anything...would be interesting to see if/how it works.
I hope to never have to work any of these solutions with a struggling dog instead of a stuffed animal.
Hey @Big Fin, any chance you could pin this thread to the top of any topic which involves dogs? Everyone with a bird dog, bear dog, or fuzzy buddy, could use this info.Good reminder for everyone. I also carry a cable cutter in my vest as well.
Cable Cutter
A belt can be handy to open a conibear if no rope is available.True, but after a long day of walking someone is a lot more likely to ditch a heavy clumsy set of trap setters than a light section of rope with a loop tied on one end. With practice it should take under a minute to disable a 220 conibear with a rope. You only have to latch one spring. The other you can just compress. But I do agree, a setters would be quicker.
For snares just look for a Felco cable cutter on EBay.