Big ol Burban

Well to everyone following , the burb just got off the Dyno. Curious to know what HP and TQ you think it made to the rear wheels.

I will post the graph later today after you get done guessing.

A stock LS2 truck engine at the crank makes 395 HP and 400 ft/lbs.

Mine has ported heads, a slightly bigger cam, and long tube headers.

On a rear wheel dyno the parasitic loss is 30-40% depending on tire size, gears, and weight.
 
A 1999 Chevrolet Suburban with a 454 engine produces 290 horsepower and 410 lb-ft of torque at the crank.
 
I've enjoyed this thread , but the HP seemed like a trick question , so I passed . :ROFLMAO: I am impressed with the finished product , good job !

I wish it was done. Still getting it ready for a road trip to Florida at the end of the month. Got a handful of shake down issues to tidy up yet. I had to order a good battery for the main. Decided to try an Odyssey extreme as the winch will run off it as well. Trying to find an exhaust that doesn’t have a drone is a problem. I ordered a stock style one to try, albeit it was made to fit a ford. I also have to replace the starter with a mini and heat wrap. The factory one can’t handle the heat sink from the headers.

Finally, I have to have the trans programming redone better. It slams into gear and I am not a fan.
 
I wish it was done. Still getting it ready for a road trip to Florida at the end of the month. Got a handful of shake down issues to tidy up yet. I had to order a good battery for the main. Decided to try an Odyssey extreme as the winch will run off it as well. Trying to find an exhaust that doesn’t have a drone is a problem. I ordered a stock style one to try, albeit it was made to fit a ford. I also have to replace the starter with a mini and heat wrap. The factory one can’t handle the heat sink from the headers.

Finally, I have to have the trans programming redone better. It slams into gear and I am not a fan.
Still impressive stuff . There will always be something that needs to be addressed or changed , or improved .
 
500 mile shake down. Well back on page 6 we talked about whether to rebuild it or buy a reman transfer case. I rebuilt the one and was confident in it. Well in the last hundred miles I’ve been feeling what I thought was a loose trans mount. To my surprise it was much worse. Tuesday I was under it and there were no signs of a leak. Today I went to find the loose mount and found the rear covered in oil. The rear output shaft seal was out and there is magnesium powder where the seal is supposed to be. I was so disappointed that I packed it up for the night. I will tear it apart tomorrow and see what needs to be redone. At a minimum it needs a new bushing and seal. But I suspect that the new tail shaft bearing failed, which would explain the vibration I felt. Ugh

IMG_3873.jpeg
 
So got it pulled tonight and everything seems fine minus the bushing and yolk. Here is my best guess as to what happened.

That seal sits over the exhaust. As shown here in the photo below. I felt the drive shaft and it was hot to the touch after driving. Not enough to burn you but you definitely did not want to keep your hand on it. The transfer case didn’t feel hot so I didn’t think much about it.

The seal was tight and still is if I were to reinstall it. I think the seal got hot enough to get the rubber grippy / sticky. The yolk had been sanded down to clean it up and had lost its polished finish. I thought it would be ok but I think that contributed.

The heat and texture expanded the yolk and spun the seal in the case. Then the transfer case just pumped everything it had out the back and the bushing ran dry, turning it into powder.

So the fix is to switch the case to a new aluminum one that is tighter since it is apart. It will come with a new bushing and seal. It cost about the same to just ordering the seal and bushing. Use a different yolk I have that is still polished. Install a heat shield on the pipe to lower the heat being transferred into the driveshaft. Hopefully that gets me back in business.

IMG_3876.jpeg
 
So got it pulled tonight and everything seems fine minus the bushing and yolk. Here is my best guess as to what happened.

That seal sits over the exhaust. As shown here in the photo below. I felt the drive shaft and it was hot to the touch after driving. Not enough to burn you but you definitely did not want to keep your hand on it. The transfer case didn’t feel hot so I didn’t think much about it.

The seal was tight and still is if I were to reinstall it. I think the seal got hot enough to get the rubber grippy / sticky. The yolk had been sanded down to clean it up and had lost its polished finish. I thought it would be ok but I think that contributed.

The heat and texture expanded the yolk and spun the seal in the case. Then the transfer case just pumped everything it had out the back and the bushing ran dry, turning it into powder.

So the fix is to switch the case to a new aluminum one that is tighter since it is apart. It will come with a new bushing and seal. It cost about the same to just ordering the seal and bushing. Use a different yolk I have that is still polished. Install a heat shield on the pipe to lower the heat being transferred into the driveshaft. Hopefully that gets me back in business.

View attachment 363930
No internal damage? mtmuley
 

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