Barrel Break-in

Do you break-in the barrel on a new rifle?

  • Yes, I follow manufacturers recommendations or do my own barrel break-in.

  • No, I just shoot it.


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HighDesertSage

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I know this topic has alot of mixed information. I'm just curious what Hunttalkers actually do. Sorry if this has been done before, I couldn't find it if it has.
 
Kinda like breaking in a new engine. Some folks follow the builders recommendations and some just let 'er rip.
 
Clean a new barrel then just shoot it. I've tried that break in stuff and never found it to do anything other than cost me ammo! Didn't make me feel better either!
 
My guess is that the price of the gun probably is a big factor in the decision to do a proper barrel break in or not.
 
I do my own, which doesn't take very long but gives me piece of mind that I'm not hurting anything and I do it while rough sighting in anyways.
Step 1 clean gun from factory oil
2) For the first 5 shots, shoot 1 shot -dry patch, wet patch, brush, 2-3 dry patches.
3) Shoot 5 more shots and clean as above.
4) Shoot the last 10 rounds in the box and clean it good when I'm home.
 
I follow the manufacturers recommendations. Can't say if it makes any difference or not. If I didn't follow them and it didn't shoot well, it would really bug me, so I just take the time and do it.
 
I follow manufacturer recommendations as well. I assume doing a bit a cleaning over the first (< 20) rounds certainly can't hurt.
 
I follow the manufacturers recommendation but always feel like it’s a waste of time while I’m doing it. Not sure if it helps or not.
 
There are lots of people making quality barrels. Wisconsin seems to be a hotbed these days with Obermeyer, Brux, Bartlein, Rock Creek and Kreiger among the better known ones. If break-in was necessary you'd think that all of the makers would recommend it and have a similar procedure.
A lot depends upon your cleaning regimen. Bore guides, brushes rod, solvents, etc. can get monotonous right quick. You could spend a day at the range and fire 10 shots.

I prefer a quick and dirty method. Some say that carbon fouling is worse than copper fouling. After a couple shots, I pop in a rod guide and run 3 or 4 patches damp with rubbing alcohol. Gets a lot of the black out. Takes less than a minute.

I've also made it my goal to use powders like IMR4955, IMR7977, Reloder 22 Reloder 23. with copper fouling reducers added.

Something to read on the subject.

http://www.primalrights.com/library/articles/evolution-barrel-cleaning

For a new barrel I run a damp alcohol patch through it and it's GTG unless there is indication that more attention is needed.
 
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Looks like the responses are are about 50/50. I break mine in now per the mfg instructions, but the first 3 or 4 I bought were just cleaned out the box and cleaned after each season. My idea of an acceptable group is 1.25" at 100 yards, so I'm not terribly picky and have no idea if a break in works or not.
 
In all honestly ... whenever I have purchased a new rifle, no one has ever told me or recommended I “break the barrel in”. I had not idea this was a process. I didn’t start hearing about barrel breakin, until the last year or so. Do competitive shooters do this and is it necessary on your basic hunting rifle.
 
If manufacturer recommends it and more expensive I'll do it but work on sighting in scope, practicing at the range, etc. at the same time. Not shooting ammo with no purpose.

But, had a Ruger Precision 6.5 CM. Cleaned new to get oil out and 300 rounds later it was still sub-MOA with no other cleaning. Clean when groups start opening up.
 
I had planned to shoot a box or so through my rifle on it’s first outing anyways, so I followed a routine similar to what @targetpanic described. I have no idea if it “worked” or was necessary but I’d do it again with my next new rifle as well.
 
Yes but it’s 10 shots and I’m doing a pressure test ladder for handloads at the same time.

Basically the only reason to break in a match grade barrel is to remove any burrs left by the chamber reamer or burrs left when the crown was cut. If it’s a rough factory barrel then accuracy will improve for several hundred rounds as it smooths out, but I wouldn’t call that break in.
 
I follow nosler's procedure loosely. Mostly for piece of mind. If I didn't do it and the gun wasn't accurate it would drive me nuts wondering. Since I'm planning on shooting at least a box to get familiar with the gun and start working on a zero, why not take some extra time to do so? I personally feel like sufficient time to cool the barrel and allow it to heat cycle, is more important than the cleaning patches. That is nearly entirely anecdotal however.
 

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