Automotive question?

Did the lift kit exasperate the condition? The older Nissans had constant velocity joints in the drivelines, don't know about the newer ones, sometimes the middle of the joint went bad, not the actual u-joints. If it changes with bumper load, it almost has to be driveline related, u-joint caps at the rear diff and the transfer case have to be within .5 degree of each other, in other words the two yokes have to be essentially parallel and the driveline the angle between. Guys create problems if they just change the angle of the rear diff by leaf spring change etc and don't compensate somehow with the tcase angle. This is also a type of launch shudder, the rear diff wraps up on acceleration and causes a vibration.
I’d start here, just my 2 cents. Trucks are not designed to be lifted aftermarket. It can create a host of issues w/ how the drivetrain parts are aligned, or less often, suspension system. No two trucks are the same either d/t slight differences in manufacturing tolerances. It is uncommon to put lift parts on a vehicle w/o having to make other adjustments.

I put a 2” lift on my Taco and I altered the diff during install to accommodate it. It exacerbated wheel bearings that were already starting to go, and once I swapped those out I have a smooth ride.
 
Start with the tires. We had problems years ago and finally took it to a place with a Forced balance machine. One of the front tires was bad. 2" lift shouldn't really bother anything. Done a lot of them on different vehicles over the years. Done some ourselves and had other installed by 4wheel drive places.
Start simple and go from there.
I'm not an expert just have a lot of miles on the body and know what works and doesn't.
 
Tire history.
I upgraded the stock tires after 500 miles on the new truck. During this first 500 I drove across Montana and first noticed a slight tremor at the steering wheel, passenger seat when empty would vibrate. Typically I run summer and winter tires so in three years nothing has had a chance to degrade. But the tremor slowly increased to a shudder. Like I said, I had the guys at the tire shop check things. " Your tires aren't round". So I replaced them. If one of the stock rims was untrue wouldn't the symptoms be consistent and not evolve?
 
It will get figured out.
Thanks for all the online problem solving.
I like to seem like I have a clue when talking to people connected to the auto industry, since they are fairly blase about spending my money. 😂
 
GM had a cool vibration analysis tool that had sensors to attach at different places, EVA was her name. Could tell where the vibration initiated and whether it was first or second order. That was 13 years ago, so my memory is a bit foggy. Inner joints on front CV axles will cause a vibration, but not necessarily make clicking noises like outer joints. Could be carrier bearing issues in the driveline, but a lot of times those will manifest as more of a noise. Any on/off throttle whine noise, if so, could be pinion bearing issue in the rear diff?
The problem occurs with either summer or winter tires, are they on the same set of rims?
 
GM had a cool vibration analysis tool that had sensors to attach at different places, EVA was her name. Could tell where the vibration initiated and whether it was first or second order. That was 13 years ago, so my memory is a bit foggy. Inner joints on front CV axles will cause a vibration, but not necessarily make clicking noises like outer joints. Could be carrier bearing issues in the driveline, but a lot of times those will manifest as more of a noise. Any on/off throttle whine noise, if so, could be pinion bearing issue in the rear diff?
The problem occurs with either summer or winter tires, are they on the same set of rims?
One set of rims. Problem with both sets if tires.
No strange noises of any sort.
 
One set of rims. Problem with both sets if tires.
No strange noises of any sort.
Aftermarket rims or factory? If they are aftermarket, do they fit the hub snug? Some vehicles are hub-centric meaning that they need the wheel to center on the hub, not rely on the lug nut/stud to center the wheel.
 
Is it a violent shaking? Reminds me of the dreaded "Death Wobble"

Jack the front end up and check your steering components for lash and excessive play. Worn bushings can cause your symptoms. While you're at it check your steering damper. Unbolt the piston end, not the tube. If you can move it in and out freely it's bad needs replaced.

Lifts are hard on cv joints. 2" lift doesn't sound like much but completely changes the geometry of everything in the suspension. Are the tires oversize?
 
Factory rims.
Can have the wheels checked on a spin balancer without a tire mounted, but from the sounds of it, not tire related. Running out of ideas, sorry.

One other thing, have you queried the people at the Nissan dealership for a known concern? GM had an issue with their Silverado PU=, can't remember the MY, but it was a launch shudder and the fix was a different slip yoke on the rear D/L.
 
Can have the wheels checked on a spin balancer without a tire mounted, but from the sounds of it, not tire related. Running out of ideas, sorry.

One other thing, have you queried the people at the Nissan dealership for a known concern? GM had an issue with their Silverado PU=, can't remember the MY, but it was a launch shudder and the fix was a different slip yoke on the rear D/L.
I will check with Nissan. Arrangements made for rim check. My guy is going to put the truck on a lift and run it to examine for anything out of order. He used to rebuild drive line/ cv joints...has an eye.
Thanks.
 
I will check with Nissan. Arrangements made for rim check. My guy is going to put the truck on a lift and run it to examine for anything out of order. He used to rebuild drive line/ cv joints...has an eye.
Thanks.
Vibrations and electrical gremlins. Always tough to pin down sometimes. I'd rather something just fail. Hope you get it resolved. mtmuley
 

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