Torque..

zpooch

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Jan 4, 2018
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So which one? Thinking the 25 inch pounds and if that results in catastrophic failure I have the Vortex warranty to fall back on. Thoughts?

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Great question. I have the same Game Reaper mounts on a couple of guns with VX2's mounted on them. I never thought to check the scope spec's for a max torque rating. I used 25 in-lbs, dry screws.
 
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I'd go with what the scope manufacturer suggests. If you exceed that and crush the tube it'll be obvious you over torqued it. They may still warranty it but they shouldn't have to.
 
But if the scope slides in the rings and gets damaged because I don't torque it to the rings' spec, should Vortex have to replace that?
 
I have never used a torque wrench to put on an optic. And I generally don’t use lock tight. I degrease everything and snug it down firm. I make sure the rings come down even.

Has worked for me for many years on the boomer handguns....
 
I torque mine to 18 inch pounds with the low strenth purple Loctite.
After checking ring contact area and lapping if needed.
 
I'd go with what the scope manufacturer suggests. If you exceed that and crush the tube it'll be obvious you over torqued it. They may still warranty it but they shouldn't have to.

If there is an advantage to Allen head scope screws it would be that they'd likely strip out before you could put too much torque on them, esp. if you're using them to attach scope bases. With the torx screws it's no biggie to tighten em to a snug fit without overdoing it. Overtightening with torx or slotted screws is most likely to end up twisting off the screw heads than anything else.
 
I'd go with what the scope manufacturer suggests. If you exceed that and crush the tube it'll be obvious you over torqued it. They may still warranty it but they shouldn't have to.
As much as I hate to admit it, I know from experience that Vortex will still warranty the scope if it is over torqued.
 
I went with no loctite and 20 inch pounds. We'll see how that works
 
I don't think you should do something with the attitude "If I break it, they'll replace it."

That's really a good way to ruin a good thing.

I doubt the few extra inch pounds will hurt it though. It's also possible that 18 inch pounds is plenty.

Also, torque on bolted joints usually changes between dry and lubricated. And neither specified dry or lubricated...... or with loctite.

I'd probably remove all the oil/grease, apply loctite, torque to 18 inch pounds, dab a little nail polish on the heads (as a tell tale) and see how it goes.
 
Why wouldn’t you use loctite?

I always degrease and add a drop of blue.
From the DNZ website

"Thread Locker – it is not needed with our mounts if it is installed correct. DO NOT use any type of thread locker on our long ring screws. The screws we use are longer than other companies screws. We have about 20 threads holding your scope in place on each screw. If you do use thread locker, most of the time you will have to saw or break screws to get your scope out of mount. Do not send any mount back to us for exchange or refund if it has thread locker on the mount at any spot"
 
I have personally experienced holding zero and tracking problems with Swarovski and Vortex scopes and determined the problem to be torquing the rings over 18 in/lbs.
Have always done bases at 25-30 in/lbs and some scopes recommend more, but Vortex recommends 15-18 in/lbs and Swarovski actually recommends 17 in/lbs max on ring screws.
 
From the DNZ website

"Thread Locker – it is not needed with our mounts if it is installed correct. DO NOT use any type of thread locker on our long ring screws. The screws we use are longer than other companies screws. We have about 20 threads holding your scope in place on each screw. If you do use thread locker, most of the time you will have to saw or break screws to get your scope out of mount. Do not send any mount back to us for exchange or refund if it has thread locker on the mount at any spot"

I've never done it that I can recall, but does anyone use a torch in that situation? Also there is a product called hard as nails used to repair broken/damaged fingernails that serves the same purpose. I never use anything on the screws unless they come that way.
 
I have DNZ mounts on several rifles with 30mm scopes (not Vortex). Never used Loctite with them, and I've had zero issues with the screws loosening. I torqued the ring screws to 25 inch lbs.
 
I've never done it that I can recall, but does anyone use a torch in that situation? Also there is a product called hard as nails used to repair broken/damaged fingernails that serves the same purpose. I never use anything on the screws unless they come that way.

a regular propane plumbing torch will break down red and blue lock tight with ease.
 
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