Sigh-ting in issues

[David658]

Range Report!

Seems I have a shooter, now, I just have to practice.

The bedding and free-floating seems to have solved the accuracy, and the temperature-related stringing. An example group is in the photo. The flyer was a "dammit" as described below.

The groups were bigger than I would expect, because several shots were "dammits", because I now have a 2-1/2# trigger pull, instead of the typical 87# Ruger pull. Will get a snap cap tomorrow at Sportsman's, and do some dry firing so I can get more accustomed to the pull - no need to launch lead to get used to that pull.

Pleased at this point, and I like the Winchester poly-tipped 150gr ammo - if I can locate more, that might just be my Ibex ammo. Big "if".

 

[cahunter805]

Range Report!

Seems I have a shooter, now, I just have to practice.

The bedding and free-floating seems to have solved the accuracy, and the temperature-related stringing. An example group is in the photo. The flyer was a "dammit" as described below.

The groups were bigger than I would expect, because several shots were "dammits", because I now have a 2-1/2# trigger pull, instead of the typical 87# Ruger pull. Will get a snap cap tomorrow at Sportsman's, and do some dry firing so I can get more accustomed to the pull - no need to launch lead to get used to that pull.

Pleased at this point, and I like the Winchester poly-tipped 150gr ammo - if I can locate more, that might just be my Ibex ammo. Big "if".

Looks like it’s coming together. Don’t be afraid to test a few other brands of ammo especially if it’s available locally.
Also with regards to practicing your trigger pull I would recommend you dry fire practice at least 20-30 times a day for a week. Also during this practice do so with your eyes closed and concentrate on a smooth consistent pressure on the trigger until it breaks. Once your familiar with the trigger pull you can practice actually aiming at a target or object.

 

[Jbaldwin40]

Put the rifle in a gun vise and make sure it is the rifle and NOT you. To start with.

I agree. It is possible you are anticipating recoil and not realizing it.

 

[OntarioHunter]

Range Report!

Seems I have a shooter, now, I just have to practice.

The bedding and free-floating seems to have solved the accuracy, and the temperature-related stringing. An example group is in the photo. The flyer was a "dammit" as described below.

The groups were bigger than I would expect, because several shots were "dammits", because I now have a 2-1/2# trigger pull, instead of the typical 87# Ruger pull. Will get a snap cap tomorrow at Sportsman's, and do some dry firing so I can get more accustomed to the pull - no need to launch lead to get used to that pull.

Pleased at this point, and I like the Winchester poly-tipped 150gr ammo - if I can locate more, that might just be my Ibex ammo. Big "if".

The Timney trigger I recently dropped into my Springfield is supposedly factory set at 3.5 lbs. I didn't readjust it and though I haven't got the gear to check the weight, I presume that's what it pulls. It is just right! I would think 2.5 lbs is kinda light for field work? Hunting with cold hands or gloves on might be dicey.

 

[BigMonk96]

I replaced the trigger on my Remington 700, with a Timney Straight Trigger, with factory set at 3.5 lbs. as mentioned and it makes for a sweet easy pull -- I would think 2.5 lbs. pull would be to lite for field work too*** ____ just to much to think about when that trophy walks out*

 

[David658]

Trigger is a touch lighter than I prefer, but it is what I have at the moment. Lots of dry firing and range work will help, I'm just very happy it seems to have the capability of putting pills where they go.

 

[David658]

I agree. It is possible you are anticipating recoil and not realizing it.

I think I am ok with the recoil - to me, this '06 doesn't really have much recoil. Especially compared with my .75 flintlock fowler, or other such cannon-like devices that I have shouldered. Not as light kicking as my M1, but I can comfortably shoot many more rounds than I want to expend ($$$).

 

[OntarioHunter]

Trigger is a touch lighter than I prefer, but it is what I have at the moment. Lots of dry firing and range work will help, I'm just very happy it seems to have the capability of putting pills where they go.

Is the trigger adjustable? I assumed it is if it replaces the factory trigger. Do you plan to hunt with the rifle?

 

[Fireman13]

I loved reading about your issue and walking through your solution. Great learning tool for my future efforts to tighten up some of my favorite rifles. Thanks for following through to help others in the future!!

 

[JLS]

Is the trigger adjustable? I assumed it is if it replaces the factory trigger. Do you plan to hunt with the rifle?

Not necessarily adjustable. Some of them are ordered by a preset poundage.

 

[Farmerj]

We would put a dime on the barrel. Jerk or follow threw issues, the dime fall off the barrel

We’d also rubber band a black marker to the muzzle and watch what out breathing would do. The idea is you want to see your natural wobble and your breathing. You end up with a nice figure-8 done correctly

Vertical stringing is also a cheekweld issue. If needed, tape an earplug to the stock for a landmark to come back to.

 

[OntarioHunter]

We would put a dime on the barrel. Jerk or follow threw issues, the dime fall off the barrel

We’d also rubber band a black marker to the muzzle and watch what out breathing would do. The idea is you want to see your natural wobble and your breathing. You end up with a nice figure-8 done correctly

Vertical stringing is also a cheekweld issue. If needed, tape an earplug to the stock for a landmark to come back to.

I'm curious, just how important is a tight "cheek weld"? At present my scope comes into full view the moment the rifle is mounted. I'm not "welded" to the stock either but rather am lightly on it. I expect for long range shooting a tighter cheek weld might be more desirable but for close range, which often involves quick acquisition and fire, wouldn't something a bit looser be better? I have thought about lower rings which would undoubtedly tighten the weld (I'm presently in the process of changing rings for other reasons), but would that adversely affect my ability to make quick and/or running shots? Right now I have complete confidence in my proven ability to take animals on the run with that rifle. Mind you, running shots are not something I advocate ... unless one has the luxury of shooting thousands of rounds per year at moving targets ... and a gun that fits perfectly.

I would think that if a landmark is needed on the stock for cheek placement, the proper solution would be to readjust the scope so it automatically comes into proper alignment/focus the instant the gun is mounted. Either raise/lower the rings or move the scope fore/aft.

 

[Farmerj]

As critical as bedding the action.

Something like a 0.008” movement on your end is a 1” movement on the other end at 100 yards. Been ages since I did the math to compute it.

Think of it as two right angle triangle. The muzzle being the pivot.

The target is 3600” away. 1”/3600” = 0.000277777777778

24” barrel X 0.000277777777778 = 0.006666666666667.

So if your eye isn’t within 0.007” of where it needs to be…

Sight alignment baby..

 

[OntarioHunter]

As critical as bedding the action.

Something like a 0.008” movement on your end is a 1” movement on the other end at 100 yards. Been ages since I did the math to compute it.

Think of it as two right angle triangle. The muzzle being the pivot.

The target is 3600” away. 1”/3600” = 0.000277777777778

24” barrel X 0.000277777777778 = 0.006666666666667.

So if your eye isn’t within 0.007” of where it needs to be…

Sight alignment baby..

Your math would be correct if you're shooting a shotgun with a bead on the end of the barrel for a sight. A scope gathers up the view and centers the crosshairs, and therefore the gun, in that view. Place the gun in a vice, put the crosshairs on a target, then look into the scope off centre. Your view may not show the entire picture but the crosshairs are still on target. Trajectory inside the rifle is fixed (if the bedding and scope are fixed to it properly). Movement that can change the trajectory is movement of the rifle, muzzle to butt, not movement of eye to scope.

 

[JLS]

Movement that can change the trajectory is movement of the rifle, muzzle to butt, not movement of eye to scope.

You still need to account for potential parallax, so this isn’t completely true.

 

[Farmerj]

Your math would be correct if you're shooting a shotgun with a bead on the end of the barrel for a sight. A scope gathers up the view and centers the crosshairs, and therefore the gun, in that view. Place the gun in a vice, put the crosshairs on a target, then look into the scope off centre. Your view may not show the entire picture but the crosshairs are still on target. Trajectory inside the rifle is fixed (if the bedding and scope are fixed to it properly). Movement that can change the trajectory is movement of the rifle, muzzle to butt, not movement of eye to scope.

As was said..

Parallax

But I’ll just let you win.

That black ring on your scope means nothing as you point out…

It automatically just fixes any performance of bad positions.

 

[OntarioHunter]

You still need to account for potential parallax, so this isn’t completely true.

Yes ... sort of. For the ranges and scope I use, parallax is not an issue. Placing my 3x9 Nikon mounted on Springfield in a Gun Butler on the kitchen table (closest I can get to a vice and bench today) and testing for parallax, I got some interesting results. On 9x sighting at the back fence fifty yards away I can see what appears to be some very slight reticle movement when I move my head around. But sighting at branches in a treetop 250 yards away there appears to be no movement at all even when my beard whiskers are hardly touching the rifle stock and I can only barely see the reticle. That's a lot more than 0.007"! Using the above formula, that much movement of my cheek off the gun and still seeing the reticle should have required moving off zero a foot or more. But the gun is stationary so zero has not changed and my view of crosshairs location on target has not changed. On 3x there was barely any discernable reticle movement at 50 yards and of course nothing way out in the treetops.

 

[Don Fischer]

My 700's all have Walker trigger's in them adjusted to 3#. Most people that shoot them the first time claim they went off before the trigger was touched.

 

[David658]

Is the trigger adjustable? I assumed it is if it replaces the factory trigger. Do you plan to hunt with the rifle?

It is the stock Ruger trigger that the smith lightened up.

 

[David658]

We would put a dime on the barrel. Jerk or follow threw issues, the dime fall off the barrel

We’d also rubber band a black marker to the muzzle and watch what out breathing would do. The idea is you want to see your natural wobble and your breathing. You end up with a nice figure-8 done correctly

Vertical stringing is also a cheekweld issue. If needed, tape an earplug to the stock for a landmark to come back to.

Interesting! I think my follow-through is decent because of my flintlock shooting - no jerks allowed. I'm just programmed for that heavy trigger pull of stock Ruger, so something more better fools me - I must train myself to be set and ready to go when the trigger gets a touch from my boogerhook.