Recoil Lug - Bolt Gun Build

[Brian in Montana]

I've posted about it a few times, but I'm building a rifle (still going back and forth on a .280 Remington or .280 AI). The only parts I'm down to at this point are the barrel and recoil lug. In all my gun cleaning and stock swapping over the years, I've really never paid much attention to the recoil lug. Seems a pretty small thing, but I don't know how much difference it could really make in overall performance, as long as it's there, snug, and doing it's job.

What should I consider when deciding which lug (what size, thickness, brand, etc) to go with? Any suggestions or recommendations?

 

[Durango Mike]

aluminum bedding blocks (lots around you just need to specify stock type) or bed acraglass (use plenty of release agent!) are my favorites, consistent tension with action screws and a free floated barrel have been my keys to consistent accuracy. By the way go with the AI version, the 40 degree shoulder makes for minimal case stretching and the case gives you a bit more flexibility with heavier bullets and slow powders.

 

[ImBillT]

Factory Remington lugs used to be fairly inconsistent in dimensions, which meant that after you glass bedded your rifle, you couldn’t put a different rifle in that stock without Re doing the bedding job.

Just get one that says how thick it is, and when you build a rifle get one that is the same thickness as your first. It’s just less headache in the long run if everything is the same, but by no means important. A tapered recoil lug I a little easier to get out of a stock after bedding than a Remington lug. If your action has an indexing pin you can get a lug with a hole for it, and that allows you to get the lug in the same place after you rebarrel, which is also fairly important for using your stock without redoing the bedding .

I’ve been using Badger recoil lugs from Midway. They are cheap. I wish all my rifles had them though instead of just a couple.

 

[Brian in Montana]

The Badger lugs is one I was looking at on Midway. I've had good luck with PTG for R700 parts too, but Badger seemed to have a lot of good reviews.

What I might do is just call Criterion and ask if they have a recommendation. I'm not ready to order the barrel yet, but they might have some insight as to what might be best.

 

[ImBillT]

The Badger lugs is one I was looking at on Midway. I've had good luck with PTG for R700 parts too, but Badger seemed to have a lot of good reviews.

What I might do is just call Criterion and ask if they have a recommendation. I'm not ready to order the barrel yet, but they might have some insight as to what might be best.

Last I checked PTG’s reamer quality is not what it used to be. I don’t know how you could screw up a recoil lug if you’re actually trying, so I’m sure they’re perfectly wonderful, but unless your action has an indexing pin, I don’t see any reason to pay any more than a Badger costs.

 

[Deleted member 16014]

Some smith's pin lugs, some don't. Either way tighter tolerances of an after market lug aren't a bad thing since it's already apart anyway. Don't think you'd go wrong with Holland, Badger, or PTG.

 

[MT_Chad]

The Badger lugs is one I was looking at on Midway. I've had good luck with PTG for R700 parts too, but Badger seemed to have a lot of good reviews.

What I might do is just call Criterion and ask if they have a recommendation. I'm not ready to order the barrel yet, but they might have some insight as to what might be best.

Brian, before you order your barrel, check McGowen out of kalispell, they build custom remage barrels and you can keep it local-ish.

 

[BWALKER77]

If I were you I would go with a Krieger cut rifled barrel vs the button rifled Criterion.

 

[Mule man]

I have two .280AI's and have had excellent luck with both on paper and game. Last three shots ,two bucks at over 400 yards and one 330 class bull at 325 yards. We have gongs from 300 to 980 yards to get dialed in. First thing we do is float forearm then BED lug ,tang, and part of action in front of lug and behind. Just what we do and found most all shoot well for us.

 

[p_ham]

You'll be fine with a Badger or PTG. It's fairly difficult to mess up surface grinding opposing faces to parallel. I would go with the factory thickness (don't remember what that is) as that's what most stocks are inlet for. If you decide you need a thicker lug it will be a little more work fitting the stock but it's not a difficult job.

 

[winmag]

Factory thickness is .187" as is thick enough.

 

[cahunter805]

.250 lug is what I’d use. Depending on the brand some come with parallel sides and some come with tapered sides. The tapered is a bit easier to remove from bedding. If you plan to switch barrels on this rifle Id probably pin it also.
Most stocks are also pretty loose in the lug area and a .250 normally fits also. Just be sure whatever lug you use is clearanced on the bottom.

 

[Brian in Montana]

I ordered the barrel today and just went ahead and ordered a lug along with it.