Gastro Gnome - Eat Better Wherever

Quick question for food plot experts

Crop oil is antagonistic to round up, tryclopyr great on woody vegetation
How do you figure it's antagonistic? I think we may be talking different things. The crop oil I speak of has been used for years to reduce glyphosate rates. Unfortunately I also think it has helped lead to resistance. Tryclopyr is great and may be the solution here. Just make sure it's not in a mix like "crossbow" or we're back to a delayed plant back time like 24-D. Remedy ultra is a marketed brand name. Obviously you know that but I added that for others reading this.
 
What plants are you planning on putting in you food plot? Is the soil type supportive of those plants. With blueberry and pine in the picture I'm guessing the soil is pretty acidic and drains quickly, it may need alot of modification to support your targeted plant species. Being from the UP, blueberry bushes are pretty much only found in sandy soil with very thin soil horizons. These horizons may not support deep rooted plant species. I'm guessing the soil by TC are similar where you are located. You might want to talk to some one local to see what they made work.

I have deer that are near starving to death so even just rye gets hammered. I’m happy to plant oats and clover as well. But the soil is indeed sandy with very thin topsoil. The best part about these food plots is there isn’t another real food plot for miles. So they aren’t picky.
 
I have deer that are near starving to death so even just rye gets hammered. I’m happy to plant oats and clover as well. But the soil is indeed sandy with very thin topsoil. The best part about these food plots is there isn’t another real food plot for miles. So they aren’t picky.
small plots and heavy grazing nothing wrong with Ryegrain150 lbs/crimson plot 15lbs ac
 
Prove gly doesn't cause cancer beyond a shadow of a doubt.

Either way I have five kids and 2 grand kids and it's not worth the risk of not at least being somewhat aware it could be problematic and people who've been exposed to it have gotten alarming cases of non hodgkin's lymphoma. Know people in the ag business who are at least at a minimum jittery about it, some who won't use the stuff at all and others who absolutely trust it's completely harmless. Sorry but for me I'll gladly error on the side of caution vs blindly trusting Mansanto. And I use gly lol. Just wanted to make sure before telling someone to use something like gly they were aware of the possible risk, especially if they have kids and are able to go into using it with some knowledge that safety precautions should be used when using it just like anything else. Kids bodies are still growing and are more susceptible to chemicals than crotchety old adults.

The no till method does work and is effective in a lot of cases. After seeing how acidic your soil looks in the pics and with having machinery, I'd highly suggest getting rid of the organic debris and at minimum start applying lime right away and annually. Acidic soil is really tough to grow most plots seeds on and doing everything to up germination rates vs just over speeding with no till isn't the most ideal. Doable, yes, especially if you don't have access to equipment or the drive to do it, no till does work. But with having the equipment and seems like the desire to put the work into it, I'd elect to go full till and get the soil turned up. Yes, there'll be dormant seeds that sprout, but that's food plotting. A soil test is priority number one.

Good luck with it.
 
I have deer that are near starving to death so even just rye gets hammered. I’m happy to plant oats and clover as well. But the soil is indeed sandy with very thin topsoil. The best part about these food plots is there isn’t another real food plot for miles. So they aren’t picky.

You've planted rye before with success in the area?

We've had really good luck with winter wheat, winter rye and oats planted together with a clover/chicory top coat. And we are in a fairly acidic soil in some areas, with blueberries around some plots. With an average ph level around 5.9.

Have had mixed results with brassicas from great, tall plants with huge bulbs, to terrible germination rates and stunted growth. They are just so demanding on the soil, unless everything is right they don't grow well for us.

Have found over the years clover seems to do pretty well with some light discing and will bounce back great, allowing for tilling for annuals and still keeping the perennials like clover and chicory going. It's more scaring the surface vs a heavy, deep discing once the plots are established.
 
I've had good luck with a Wheat/Tritcale/Oat mix that comes prepackaged around here for about the same price as wheat by itself. Seems to attract better than a monoculture of any of them.

I'm going to be trying a new thing this year planting some "Sainfoin" mixed into some CRP type grass that I have. I was lucky to pick up a old Tye no-till drill this year and am going to no-till it into the grass after I mow it this winter. The nice thing about Sainfoin is it is much more drought tolerant than alfalfa and is supposed to be a big wildlife attractant. I also keep some bees and they are supposed to really like Sainfoin and the honey off of it is supposed to be really good.

Also Sainfoin is pretty much immune to gly so to help it get a good early start I might spray a very light mixture of gly on the grass this spring to stunt it a little and let the Sainfoin get going.

Going to be an interesting experiment for me.
 


 
food plots can be tough glyphosatate will be your best friend also looking at pics how much sun are you gonna get when them leaves are back on the trees?
 
If you decide to spray gly, the addition of liquid ammonium sulfate to your tank mix will help your kill. Most formulations of gly already contain a surfactant, so it's not necessary to add more. I'm not a food plot guy, just a farmer.
 
If you decide to spray gly, the addition of liquid ammonium sulfate to your tank mix will help your kill. Most formulations of gly already contain a surfactant, so it's not necessary to add more. I'm not a food plot guy, just a farmer.
This is good advice!! For small tank sprayers, I find the liquid AMS affordable enough.
 
You guys sounds like chemists. I can’t wait to try some of the advice in here and show some results this spring.
 
You guys sounds like chemists. I can’t wait to try some of the advice in here and show some results this spring.
Depending on what you are wanting to plant, I'd be more into thinking of showing results this fall. Some species you might be interested in planting are much harder to establish with a spring planting vs. fall (weed/competition pressure). Let us know your plan and maybe we can save you some headache.
 
I often plant buckwheat as early as I can. The stuff grows fast, and the deer hammer it ! When it flowers, the bees love it. In mid July when about 25% of it has gone to seed, I brush hog it, and till it under. Then I plant a brassica mix. The "volunteer" buckwheat seed will sprout quickly. The deer will again hammer the tender buckwheat, allowing the slower growing brassica mix a chance to get started. The best advice : test your soil ! To the OP - try to find a 5'-6' roto tiller for your tractor. Sometimes you can rent one from an equipment dealer.
 
Ok heres my 2 cents turning up the soil open new weed seeds to germinate it always does so weed control is # 1 I dont want in the debate of how you do it but it has to be done
#2 is soil condition have it tested and treat it as per seed requirements PH, and fertilizers
#3 deer will eat somethings in spring different thing in summer and different in fall so do some research and plant accordingly I had 10 acres of plots on one property about 10 to 15 different plants and the deer would hammer one type of feed some times leaving some alone even when side by side and hammer something different at other times
heck I love a bacon cheese burger but dont want one every day
 
Depending on what you are wanting to plant, I'd be more into thinking of showing results this fall. Some species you might be interested in planting are much harder to establish with a spring planting vs. fall (weed/competition pressure). Let us know your plan and maybe we can save you some headache.
I’ll probably try buckwheat this spring and oats and clover this fall. Buckwheat is the only summer crop I have had do really well in The past. Not that I know what I’m doing.
 
That's a good rotation. If you haven't been happy with the results from oats (establishment and/or winterkill) and suggest giving cereal (winter) rye a try. Stuff will grow about anywhere and is cheap.
 
Sell those pieces of junk and either get you a heavy duty tiller ( I have a countyline and would NEVER go back to disks...) or an old set of taylor-ways....

We use the taylor-ways for the first few passes over new fields just to bust stuff up. Then we till with the countyline 6 foot tiller...

Trust me.

You will never get the seed bed out of harrows that you will out of a tiller.A tiller blends fertilizer and lime and everything up and helps it compost much better.

I realize they may not be meant for 100 acre fields but for fields of 5 acres of less I honestly couldn't imagine using anything other than a tiller. If my tiller broke tomorrow there would be another sitting there the next day. It just saves us so much time and stuff grows so much better when the soil is tilled up for us.
 
Oh ya and dont forget your soil test. If you dont do a soil test spread 2 tons of lime per acre and blend into the soil. Might as well blend in your fertilizer while you are at it.
 
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