Pillar bed Howa 1500

[RkyMtnELK]

Here soon I am ordering a Boyds Thumbhole stock for my 270 Howa. I want to pillar and glass bed the action. I found a kit online from Score Hi gunsmith for the Howa and that is all. Those of you that did such a project what did you use for pillars ? Boyds does not as of yet offer anything, Stockys might have some. Any suggestions ? Thanks, Jerry

 

[VikingsGuy]

I just used properly dimensioned tubing from a local hardware store. I also once bought a set from Brownells, but frankly liked the ones I made myself better. I have found this video to be helpful:

 

[cahunter805]

The Score Hi kit is a decent kit for anyone starting out or without the ability to make some custom pillars.
Howa Actions are pretty simple to bed also.

 

[ShadowFast1]

For pillars I have used 5/16" stainless steel tubing with good results. The outside surface can be pretty slick so I rough them up with sandpaper to get a good bond to the stock. To keep yourself out of trouble when you're making your pillars be sure and fit the action and floorplate up and ensure everything functions outside of the stock before you bed it all in.

 

[cahunter805]

Shadow
Besides roughing it up it works very well to cut some grooves in the pillars which allows the bedding compound a better hold.
If you don’t have a lathe spin them in a drill and cut the grooves.

 

[Seamaster]

I use aluminum pillars from Brownelll's. Cut to approximate length and then finished on a bench sander so that I can get approximately 1/32" of bedding compound between the action and the top of the pillar to get a perfect fit. Some of the top stockmakers like a metal-to-metal fit, others (Ex. McMillan) like to get a thin coating of bedding compound on to of their pillars. As it is nearly impossible to get an absolutely perfect metal-to-metal fit the later method makes the most sense to me, and frankly I think it is easier.

 

[RkyMtnELK]

Thank you for your replies. The video is of help. I watched Larry Potterfield's video also, he has tools that I can only dream about. McMaster-Carr has aluminum spacers that I can cut as needed, Score Hi has a nice kit but not sure I like adjustable pillars. Their mounting bolts and T wrenches are nice but to buy alone are almost 1/2 the cost off a complete kit. I do have a gunsmith but he is out of state deer hunting, I did speak with him but will not get with him until after T Day. I much prefer a 1/2"od pillar that is non adjustable but might consider the adjustable. Still thinking. Thanks, Jerry

 

[HandgunHunter]

If I am bedding a fiberglass or laminated stock with full bottom metal I no longer use pillars. I only use them on hardwood stocks to prevent crush.

 

[Seamaster]

An aircraft counterbore drill bit and pilot (Amazon) and a hand drill will work to cut the proper holes for the pillars. The bit and pilot will probably cost less than $40 and will be available to drill pillar holes for many years (and rifle stocks) to come. You will need to cut the aluminum pillars (app. $11 at Brownell's) and grind or sand the bottoms to final length. It is really not hard to do at all. I like to install pillars in a separate step from the final bedding but some guys like to do it all together.

 

[Seamaster]

If I am bedding a fiberglass or laminated stock with full bottom metal I no longer use pillars. I only use them on hardwood stocks to prevent crush.

Some of the synthetic stocks benefit greatly from pillars. For example the original lightweight stocks such as Brown Precision are basically foam filled shells and can change shape under too much pressure. Putting in the pillars is inexpensive insurance but it does take a bit more time and effort.

 

[HandgunHunter]

Some of the synthetic stocks benefit greatly from pillars. For example the original lightweight stocks such as Brown Precision are basically foam filled shells and can change shape under too much pressure. Putting in the pillars is inexpensive insurance but it does take a bit more time and effort.

I do not build guns on foam filled stocks. Mainly solid fill mcmillan and laminated.

that’s actually the HS from this thread....it’s all pretty now...trued, Bartline barrel, glass bedded, harrel brake, timney trigger, and finished up with cerakote. 6.5-280ai

 

[HandgunHunter]

Oops. Posted in the wrong thread...

thought I was in the thread I started on bedding.

 

[RkyMtnELK]

BcGunworks, If I understand you correctly you would not pillar a laminated stock like I am wanting from Boyds, is this correct ? My action does have full bottom metal. Would you still glass bed the action. Thanks, Jerry

 

[HandgunHunter]

BcGunworks, If I understand you correctly you would not pillar a laminated stock like I am wanting from Boyds, is this correct ? My action does have full bottom metal. Would you still glass bed the action. Thanks, Jerry

If I was to build it no. I would not pillar bed a laminated. It’s basically plywood on end. If you crush that you over tightened the action screws.

I would glass bed it. They spray the inside of the stock with their clear coat as well. You will have to sand that out.

if it’s your first. Those little kits will do you fine. You will need some modeling clay and some masking tape as well. Would be wise to have q tips and denatured alchohol to clean up excess bedding as it squeezes out when you press in the action.

Most gunsmith and people tighten the action screws when they bed. This actually causes stress and bends the action. This can cause binding and shot stringing when the gun heats up.

little tip from the accuracy world. Just slightly snug the back action screw and use a bedding screw in the front to align it. All the front screw is...is a screw with the head ground the same diameter as the screw body. This way as the bedding cures the action will be “at rest”.

 

[HandgunHunter]

My well used example.

 

[Seamaster]

I bed in much the same manner as shown above. I use a long headless screw for both the front and rear of the action and place weight evenly on top of the action to hold it down while the bedding cures. Some fellows use surgical tubing instead of weight. Using the action screws to do the job is not the best way to do it. Placing the headless screws in the action before setting it into the bedding compound also keeps the compound out of the screw holes in the action. I use long screws and grind a couple flats on the sides of the cut off end to make it easier to unscrew them before removing the action from the cured bedding. This method does not work on Ruger rifles with the angled front screw. Just do not forget to put a releasing agent on the screws as well as the action.

 

[Seamaster]

Screws with ground flats

 

[HandgunHunter]

I just leave the Allen head in the middle...

 

[ShadowFast1]

There's a good article on stress free bedding HERE.

This is really similar to how I bed with one exception: I also use electrical tape to "clamp" the action into the stock. The tape is stretchy enough that you're not inducing stress but merely holding things in place. Darrell Holland uses surgical tubing in a similar way. And having the tape around the barrel at the front of the forend keeps everything centered to the channel.

 

[Coach Chris]

I bedded a Howa 1500 a couple of years ago
I followed Nathan Foster's advice

MatchGrade Bedding Compound Instructions

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