Pergola wood

Bob-WY

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2020
Messages
853
Apologize for lack of hunting link, other than I need to get it done before antelope season opens.....

Looking to build a pergola in north central WY, Want to use cedar but having trouble locating any. Is there another choice of lumber? Don't really want PT pine
 
Apologize for lack of hunting link, other than I need to get it done before antelope season opens.....

Looking to build a pergola in north central WY, Want to use cedar but having trouble locating any. Is there another choice of lumber? Don't really want PT pine
Emmer Brothers Cedar, Belgrade, MT is an option. 'Not sure how pricey? But they likely have anything you need.

406 388-1906 [email protected]

www.emmerbrotherscedar.com

(I am in no way affiliated with them. Merely a customer many years ago.)
 
I sell tons of cedar pergolas down in Cheyenne if you’re ever down this way!

Had all the lumber in stock yesterday for a 14x16 except for a 2x8x20 in cedar the guy wanted for his ledger board. Might be worth a trip!
 
Apologize for lack of hunting link, other than I need to get it done before antelope season opens.....

Looking to build a pergola in north central WY, Want to use cedar but having trouble locating any. Is there another choice of lumber? Don't really want PT pine
I built mine about 15 years ago from rough cedar and Douglas Fir. I hit it with stain about every three years, but I can't tell any difference in the how the two woods have lasted so far, it looks brand new with no bug or rot issues. We're in Northern Utah.

Screenshot_20230514_083939_OneDrive.jpg
 
6x6 hd's in footers and build above ground to eliminate rot. Build heavier for snowload. Stain every few years.
 
Find a local person with a custom sawmill and use heartwood rough sawn douglas fir. Stronger and cheaper than cedar, and almost as decay resistant if you don't use any sapwood. Rough sawn wood holds stain better than planed wood for exterior projects and looks better imo as well.

This mill does circle sawn fir and might be within reasonable driving distance for you.

 
Last edited:
Find a local person with a custom sawmill and use heartwood rough sawn douglas fir. Stronger and cheaper than cedar, and almost as decay resistant if you don't use any sapwood. Rough sawn wood holds stain better than planed wood for exterior projects and looks better imo as well.
The county had a bunch of playground equipment built from DF , old linseed stain under the brown. I was ordered to remove it all for the "new" crap,plastic. I removed it all and instead of filling a dumpster I loaded it into my tacoma after work a little at a time. I built a bunch of patio furniture and 2 pergolas for friends.
I still have my woodworking table I made from it. Rock solid and it weighs a ton. I lamenated 2x4's for the slab with dogs built in.
The playground was built in the 70's and very little showed rot. I still have a few pieces in the woodstack. 4x6's and most of the wood was clear heartwood.
 
The county had a bunch of playground equipment built from DF , old linseed stain under the brown. I was ordered to remove it all for the "new" crap,plastic. I removed it all and instead of filling a dumpster I loaded it into my tacoma after work a little at a time. I built a bunch of patio furniture and 2 pergolas for friends.
I still have my woodworking table I made from it. Rock solid and it weighs a ton. I lamenated 2x4's for the slab with dogs built in.
The playground was built in the 70's and very little showed rot. I still have a few pieces in the woodstack. 4x6's and most of the wood was clear heartwood.
I took out some old DF 4" x 8" bridge decking that was starting to be unsafe. It had never been stained and probably 25 years old. I salvaged some of the nicer sections to resaw and it made some nice wood for paneling. You can see on the right where it was starting to rot around the fasteners. Friend that helped me made a nice fence out of his wood.

20230515_072541.jpg
 
I took out some old DF 4" x 8" bridge decking that was starting to be unsafe. It had never been stained and probably 25 years old. I salvaged some of the nicer sections to resaw and it made some nice wood for paneling. You can see on the right where it was starting to rot around the fasteners. Friend that helped me made a nice fence out of his wood.

View attachment 275956
We had access to the Venice Pier wood that came down in 69'. I helped swim some beams to the beach.
All fuzzy from the sea and rock hard. Sandblasted the beams and they went into block & post & beam houses in Malibu and Topanga. 10x16 ridge beams.
In 1998 we found a real floor guy and had clear DF floor installed. I bought 3000ft of beams from a Eureka warehouse and he milled a thousand into 1x5 clear T&G flooring in our cabin.
I have to get the pics from another pc..........I posted some under woodworkers a few years ago.
I learned to frame in the 60's and we had kiln dried DF studs. Mostly clear.
 
As mentioned, as long as you can avoid burying posts in soil, your choice of lumber will do just fine for many years with some proper coatings. Footings of some sort are the way to go, for sure, and from the way it sounds , go beefy with snow load and precautions for wind (fasteners)
 
Pergola will sit on footings so not touching soil.

Not sure why snow load is a big concern, roof will be 2x10s standing on edge every 12 inches then 1x1 going the other way. Plenty of open space. 2x10s will sit o. 4 2x12s which will be lag bolted to 6x6 posts
 
Pergola will sit on footings so not touching soil.

Not sure why snow load is a big concern, roof will be 2x10s standing on edge every 12 inches then 1x1 going the other way. Plenty of open space. 2x10s will sit o. 4 2x12s which will be lag bolted to 6x6 posts
How far apart will your 1x1s be spaced?

Also, I like this type of base better than a saddle and it keeps the wood elevated off the concrete...

 
My bad on concern for snow load, as there is usually not a roof on a pergola!
 
My bad on concern for snow load, as there is usually not a roof on a pergola!
It doesn't take a solid roof to hold a snow load. If he's going to alternate 1x1s, as is often done for shade, they'll hold snow just like if it's a solid roof. Neither mine or my buddies (pics above) have roofs, but both had literally feet of snow on them this year. It just depends how close to each other the 1x1s are.
 
Back
Top