Paging resident tree choppers - advice needed

[WestKyHunt]

Some recent straight line winds split a hickory which is blocking our driveway.
Luckily We have a secondary option and have used it for the last day and a half.
The problem is, FedEx and UPS will not use that route which is causing troubles with receiving my red dot for my AR.

Top is chopped, and now sunk in the ground after my FIL pushed it with the tractor.
Chain tension screw is bent and will attempted to be replaced tomorrow.

 

[WestKyHunt]

 

[Arcola]

I am certainly not a pro but I’d give it a 45 cut perpendicular to the driveway while someone gave the diagonal part tension with the tractor and a strap. Tip it over and chop it up.

 

[WestKyHunt]

I am certainly not a pro but I’d give it a 45 cut perpendicular to the driveway while someone gave the diagonal part tension with the tractor and a strap. Tip it over and chop it up.

Perpendicular as in-line with the fallen trunk?

 

[BrentD]

I'd cut 4-8 ft pieces from the top back to the standing stump. Make them shorter as you go. You may need to standing a tailgate to finish. Then cut the stump like a normal tree.

Use plastic wedges as needed to prevent chain binding.

 

[Scott85]

Start from the ground side and make your cuts starting from the underneath side. Once it gets off the the ground just cut the tree and have it fall towards the side with the top still attached.

 

[Nick87]

@Dsnow9 is the guy to ask here.

 

[WestKyHunt]

I'd cut 4-8 ft pieces from the top back to the standing stump. Make them shorter as you go. You may need to standing a tailgate to finish. Then cut the stump like a normal tree.

Use plastic wedges as needed to prevent chain binding.

Just hope I don't get hit when gravity takes the log?
Serious question. My chainsaw experience is short

 

[Dsnow9]

All depends on your comfort level with a saw. This is what I would do. On cuts 1-3 I would make an open face cut 45 degrees or so like a V 1/4 of the diameter. Then cut underneath till the peace falls. If you have wedges you can make a straight cut on top at the same depth and put a wedge in there. Cut three is the same type of cut for me but I would stand in the bucket of the tractor. Cut four I would notch towards the road and then back cut and let the weight take the trunk into the road.

***** watch lateral movement on all cut. Cut slow and watch for shifting either direction laterally. You want to be on the side the pieces are pushing away from

 

[WestKyHunt]

View attachment 267078

All depends on your comfort level with a saw. This is what I would do. On cuts 1-3 I would make an open face cut 45 degrees or so like a V 1/4 of the diameter. Then cut underneath till the peace falls. If you have wedges you can make a straight cut on top at the same depth and put a wedge in there. Cut three is the same type of cut for me but I would stand in the bucket of the tractor. Cut four I would notch towards the road and then back cut and let the weight take the trunk into the road.

***** watch lateral movement on all cut. Cut slow and watch for shifting either direction laterally. You want to be on the side the pieces are pushing away from

Thanks man. Today I was out there by myself, which lends towards not being froggy. I'll have back up tomorrow and give this a shot.

 

[Dsnow9]

Low and slow. If at any point after cut one the top is not touching the ground you can just cut straight through from the top. The wedge on top is to hopefully keep your saw from getting pinched. The closer to the power head you are cutting the better. Do not use the top corner of the bar if you can help it. It will cause wicked kick back. The flat part of the bar is good, curved bad.

Thanks man. Today I was out there by myself, which lends towards not being froggy. I'll have back up tomorrow and give this a shot.

 

[Caseknife]

@Dsnow9 is real descriptive and spot on. The one thing that I will add, if you are going to use this for firewood, after the trunk is hanging free, if it does, cut in firewood length blocks. Much easier to do this if the log is suspended rather than bending over while it is on the ground. The other thing is there may be side tension, probably will want to spring back against the way the tractor initially pushed it, if that makes sense. It wasn't under tension when it fell, but may be after it was pushed.

 

[WestKyHunt]

The other thing is there may be side tension, probably will want to spring back against the way the tractor initially pushed it, if that makes sense. It wasn't under tension when it fell, but may be after it was pushed.

Good point here. Get the tractor and truck and try to get it back to the starting point

 

[Dave N]

Take your time and be safe. Once you have it cut up haul the wood to me. I'll smoke some kind of meat for you!

 

[BrentD]

DSn ow9 and Caseknife said i

Just hope I don't get hit when gravity takes the log?
Serious question. My chainsaw experience is short

No. don't trust to hope. DSnow9 said it much better than I. And Caseknife's suggestion to buck them to firewood sized pieces while suspended, is spot on too. Use the wedges - if you don't have any, buy some. They are worth having. And farm, big box home store, or hardware should have them. Any Stihl dealer will for sure.

Keep the saw low. Not higher than chest high. Above that, use your tailgate or tractor.

 

[WestKyHunt]

Anybody happen to know if those quick tension screws on newer stihl's can be replaced with a stouter, similar screw from lowes or such?

 

[Arcola]

Perpendicular as in-line with the fallen trunk?

Yes, so it tips over like you pushed over a truss. @Dsnow9 is surely the professional here and lines it out as such. But he has the expertise to make those cuts and get out of the way if necessary. My novice says get it on the ground first, then get to work.

 

[Dsnow9]

Yes, so it tips over like you pushed over a truss. @Dsnow9 is surely the professional here and lines it out as such. But he has the expertise to make those cuts and get out of the way if necessary. My novice says get it on the ground first, then get to work.

Not bad advice but adding tension into an already tricky situation can make it go bad quickly. The lateral tension makes everything get weird in a hurry

 

[Dsnow9]

Anybody happen to know if those quick tension screws on newer stihl's can be replaced with a stouter, similar screw from lowes or such?

Can you send a pic. The home owner saws are much different than the professional version

 

[Dsnow9]

Good point here. Get the tractor and truck and try to get it back to the starting point

This is a good point. Also, you could park the tractor on the trunk side of where you are cutting with the bucket braced gently against the trunk 12” or so from where you are cutting. This would help protect you from the piece kicking towards you.