OK, probably a stupid question(s)

[drahthaar]

I don't even have a reloader. But I've been looking into it and I am getting confused and lost.

Is there a meaning to the powder numbers? H380, IMR 4385, RL-12, W748?

Or is it just sort of a random numbering system for each "brand"?

And then I hear and read Varget, or Rotumbo. But they don't say any numbers afterword. Why is that?

Can you tell if a powder is for rifles or pistols from the numbers?

I guess I just don't know where to start in looking to buy some powder. I am really only interested in reloading rifle ammo. 7mm-08, 308, 270, 06, 7mag.

 

[WapitiBob]

I'd start with a reloading manual from one of the bullet mfg's. That will get you started in the right direction.

 

[drahthaar]

So each of the bullet mauf. have their own manuals? Hornaday, Barnes?

 

[Ben Lamb]

So each of the bullet mauf. have their own manuals? Hornaday, Barnes?

Yep. And often times the powder company has their data online or available for purchase.

Some powders are named for specific things, others are named for marketing purposes.

The key is to use powders that fall within the burn rate reccomended for the cartridge you're reloading. THe 30-06 likes medium to slow powders depending on bullets. The 40 S&W uses a variety of fast to medium fast powders that are also used for shotshells.

Here's a burn rate chart to let you see how the #'s correspond:
http://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html

 

[drahthaar]

Ahhh, OK. I kept trying to make the individual numbers have some sort of pattern or meaning. That chart helps put together a bunch of what I have been reading. Thanks

 

[nidahunter]

I just started reloading for my 7mm08 and used Nosler accubonds. I found a Nosler reloading chart online and went from there. I already had some of the powders they listed and got a good accurate load from the data on that chart. It really is pretty simple once you get into it. The most confusing thing is figuring out what powder to use where but most of that work is already done for you onthe charts.

 

[idahofishnhunt]

I'd start with one of your calibers and work through the process, then you'll be more streamlined and educated for the other ones. It's too bad those powders only come in 1-lb canisters when your working up loads. Some powders will fill up your case more too and you reach your pressures quicker. I'd take a look at Buzz's thread on his rifle build for his wife and see some of the powders he tried out, then you'll have to decide on primers and brass too...and sometimes that will make a difference, but you can't get it all figured out at once. Find one that works...then maybe next year change something up, you do it all at once it gets a little spendy.

When I first started with the 7mm-08, I used IMR4350 the first year with Remington Brass, CCI200 Primers, and 139gr SST's.

Then the next year I kept the brass and primers the same, but tried some H4350 and Varget, and tried some Nosler Partitions, and Accubonds, and that's where I sit now, deciding on what I might try different this year, although I'm fairly happy with where I am right now with the load.

It is fun to test out the different loads, etc...you sure get to be a lot more anal about things though. I sure don't have as many calibers as you do though, I don't know if I could handle keeping all that data straight.

But as for your main question about the numbering...I'd like to know the answer to that to, but I have a feeling there may not be one...they are just numbered how they are, and it is what it is.

It will keep you busy that's for sure.

 

[Ben Lamb]

Alliant (Owned by ATK, which owns Federal, Speer, CCI and some others) numbers theirs according to burn rate for the most part. Reloader 10 is a lot faster than Reloader 25. But then you have 2400 which is used for magnum handguns and some shotshell reloading.

IMR & Hodgdon use similar numbers but each powder has a different burn rate. IMR 4350 is a tad faster than H4350. But H110 is the same powder as Winchester's 296. Hodgdon also names powders for esoteric reasons like H-380 was named after the velocity that the owner of Hodgdon achieved using it in a 22-250 (3800 fps).

Clear as mud?

That burn rate chart is worth it's weight in gold. If you have a manual that reccomends one powder but that one isn't available locally, you can use it to find something that is close to the same burn rate.

 

[MKotur325]

A few other suggestions. Nosler, and I believe Barnes as well, list a Most accurate powder and most accurate load in their reloading manuals for each bullet weight and each chambering. Sierra lists a few recommendations for Hunting loads. (accurate powders at relatively high velocities) again by bullet weight and chambering.

Also, http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp is a database for all Hodgdon group powders. Hodgdon, IMR and Winchester powders are listed here. There is an impressive amount of data here. It can provide information for Many powders.

A few other suggestions, as you start reloading for .308 RL-15 and Varget are two of the widest used powders for the .308 in popular bullet weights.

There is also an incredible wealth of reloading knowledge and experience in the members here. If you have any other questions, you will get quick honest answers.

 

[MKotur325]

IMR & Hodgdon use similar numbers but each powder has a different burn rate. IMR 4350 is a tad faster than H4350. But H110 is the same powder as Winchester's 296. Hodgdon also names powders for esoteric reasons like H-380 was named after the velocity that the owner of Hodgdon achieved using it in a 22-250 (3800 fps).

It is amazing how random the numbering is... Like how 4895 is faster than 4350, but 4831 is slower than 4350???

 

[drahthaar]

It is amazing how random the numbering is... Like how 4895 is faster than 4350, but 4831 is slower than 4350???

Yeah, that is why I was getting so confused. I've been reading some other forums on reloading. Reading some websites and links, but didn't seem to be making any headway and getting anything to make sense!

Like I said, I don't have a reloader yet, and just wanted to try to get a few ducks in order before even buying one. Maybe that isn't the way to go.

So thanks guys.

 

[MKotur325]

If you really wanted to get a feel for the process... Go pick up a reloading Manual from Nosler, Hornady, Sierra, or possibly Lyman. They all have a basics to reloading section in the front and list good powders for all major cartridges, and several minor ones...

 

[drahthaar]

Headed to town after I pick up the boy from school. Gonna look for one.

 

[ida homer]

If you can hook up with an experienced reloader that is the best way to go about things when starting out. I'm still in the "starting out" group and I feel like it is an impossible hobby to "master."

But I literally feel like I skipped a 3 year learning curve (at least), in a few evenings worth of putting together loads start to finish with an experienced reloader to understand the basics. It will save you money in components too.

 

[MKotur325]

I'm still in the "starting out" group and I feel like it is an impossible hobby to "master."

+1. Not sure if you can "Master" Reloading... I've been reloading off and on for 10 years, and I am still learning things...

 

[jryoung]

RBCS has some good tutorials online, as well as Ammosmith. Ammosmith being far more detailed with a much broader range of issues such as annealing, and resizing brass from a different caliber.

http://www.youtube.com/rcbsreloading

http://www.youtube.com/user/ammosmith

 

[schmalts]

I would add that besides burn rates some powders are known to be more temperature sensitive to changing burn rates. Not a problem if you do not plan on hunting in some temps like we are having lately but still something to consider.

 

[Speeddmn]

side note on reloading, most reloading kits you buy will come with a manual. so if you buy a hornady one, then get the hornady kit, you will have 2 of the same books. I have a lyman 39th edition and the barnes 4th edition. Both have a wealth of knowledge.

I too am getting into reloading and would love to find a database/software program for the computer i can input data into to make it easier to sort. Just haven't found one that I truly love.

 

[Ben Lamb]

Vital info, Schmalts.

Another good primer on reloading is the ABC's of Reloading. I got this as a gift and am happy to pass it on if someone would like to go through it. All I ask is you pass it on when you're done.

Speeddmm, there is Quickload, but I would trust hands on work over a computer model as far as reloading is concerned. Always be conservative and start slowly to go up in powder charge.

The databases, etc are good for base information, but in dealing with accelerants, projectiles and primers, especially at these pressures, it's good to be conservative.

 

[drahthaar]

Picked up a Barnes, and a Nosler manual. Holy cow. Lots of info.

Need to keep on the lookout for powder I guess. Seems to be the limiting factor right now.