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How much to have a muzzle brake installed?

A207X2

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Have a Browning BAR MK3 30-06 that I’d like to have one installed on. I need to get a lot smarter on the subject as to which one, but I know that barrel work will need to be done. Rough numbers, how much are we talking about for the labor? Thanks.
 
if you can put a thread on your barrel than you can make a brake youself, easy as
 
There are 2 ways to go about it.

First is to take the rifle apart and remove the barrel. Barrel is then put in a lathe, the muzzle end turned down (reduce the outside diameter), thread, then reassemble.
So, yeah, this takes time, tools and skill.

Second way is to put the firearm in a padded vice.
Use a special fixture that has a pilot that fits in the bore and the face of the fixture cuts from the end of the barrel towards the action. Reducing the outside diameter to a specified measurement. Thread and screw on the brake.
Cheaper, but again, special tooling and skill. The cutter has to remain below 250 rpm.
 
The cost for a gunsmith to install the threading on the end of your barrel runs $90-100 in lower Alabama.

He has a special license to do this and uses a metal lathe. I hung around his shop a little longer than most customers to pick his brain on the nerdy stuff. Based on the great number of variables, his experience, and the cost of his equipment & tools, it's a good $100 spent. Beyond this, brakes can run anywhere from $50-$500.
 
Ten to fifteen years ago when I had KDF Brakes installed on my .300 Weatherby and .375 RUM, the cost of installation plus the brakes was $200 each.
 
Knocked my .30-06 down to about a .243.

Witt machine

Slip on brake. You can get them in threaded too.
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UPDATE: what a huge difference with the muzzle brake. The 30-06 even with the BuffaloBore ammo was like shooting a.22LR. Can’t wait to put one on my 45-70.
What method did he use to time it? Did he taper the end of the brake down to your barrel diameter?
Those Terminator brakes sure are getting popular.
 
What method did he use to time it? Did he taper the end of the brake down to your barrel diameter?
Those Terminator brakes sure are getting popular.
He manually timed it as it is a one piece. He cerakoted it to be same color. He did not taper it.

i shot 80 rounds through it of different ammo wearing just a tee shirt; I could have shot all day.
 
Last edited:
Knocked my .30-06 down to about a .243.

Witt machine

Slip on brake. You can get them in threaded too.

I like the idea of a slip-on brake to conserve cost if that's what it did. The guy I took my rifle to was obsessive about slight thresholds to ensure that the added thread does not tilt ever so slightly.

Since bullet diameter is already slightly larger than the barrel it passes through, a slight tilt from a misaligned retro-thread or a slip-on brake could impact bullet trajectory. However, those four Allen screws seem to do the trick of keeping the brake straight. Is your barrel tapered or flat?
***

I'm still interested in anyone's input on Witt Machine's muzzle brake plus can? The muzzle brake by itself is so loud it stings.
 
I like the idea of a slip-on brake to conserve cost if that's what it did. The guy I took my rifle to was obsessive about slight thresholds to ensure that the added thread does not tilt ever so slightly


It gets other peoples attention on the range. I went with a slip on with this one because I wanted to try the design. My 20 year old stevens .30-06 isn’t threaded and it was cheaper to do it this way. I don’t think I’d do a Sporter profile barrel any other way really.

It’s just a stock savage Sporter barrel. Slight taper to it. You also use blue loctite on the barrel itself as well.
 
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