How Clean is Clean, Muzzleloaders

[Deleted member 28227]

How clean does everyone get their gun after the season is over and what is your preferred method.

I spent about 90min this weekend cleaning mine and it's definitely not 100% but I'm also not sure if it matters? Black Night, inline.

I'm using blackhorn 209, it's a old muzzy that was used for a couple decades with pryodex and lent out to a number of people who knows how well it had been cleaned before I got it.

I've been using the Blackhorn 209 solvent. I start out alternating wet patches and the brush for a bit then do a couple of wet patches, then the brush.

Eventually I get to the point where I run the brush then the first wet patch has a bit of black at the top then is mostly "blue", then the second is totally clean... but as soon as I hit it with the brush the same.

I'm wondering if I'm just dealing with old powder built up in the chamber/threads of the nipple and then mostly just 20+ years of copper in barrel?

End of the day it's a sub 100 yard gun, but I don't want to pit out the barrel

 

[utah400elk]

I get mine very clean. I have only used BH209. I also find most of the residue comes from the breech threads. I got a shotgun cleaning kit (cheap one) and use my cordless drill with the brass brush and then Hoppes soaked patches alternated with two or three clean patches. Once that comes clean the rest is easy. I also have Nitride Barrels and that has made a huge difference. Hope that helps?

 

[Sytes]

Following.

I've been shooting a Lyman Great Plains .54 percussion.

I followed the advice from a friend and a YouTube here / there.
I use a couple soaked solvent patches to start and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. After, a couple runs of dry then wet patches. Next, brass brush, patches, brush, and final patches.
I'm beginning with a new built gun so your decades beauty is likely a different boat all together.

Looking forward to gleaning info from other comments.

 

[Kaitum]

Years ago I had a TC Z5 muzzleloader. I shot it at the range one day, didn't clean it as thoroughly as I should have, and put it away for months in the safe. When I went to shoot it again the barrel was pitted something fierce. That was with the old style Pyrodex powder which I no longer use. Lesson learned: my laziness cost me a gun. Now I'm much more thorough in cleaning my muzzleloaders.

I find cleaning my flintlock barrel to be much easier than my inline, even though the breech plug comes out of my inline barrel. With my flintlock I take a bucket of hot, soapy water, remove the barrel, place the breech end in the bucket, and swab patches up and down the barrel from the muzzle end. The swabbing action pulls the water in through the flash hole and effectively flushes the powder residue from the barrel.

 

[Addicting]

remove the barrel, place the breech end in the bucket, and swab patches up and down the barrel from the muzzle end. The swabbing action pulls the water in through the flash hole and effectively flushes the powder residue from the barrel.

Bingo!
This is how to clean it for storage at the end of the season. The patches of chemicals are for during season.

 

[utah400elk]

I forgot to mention…I pre soak my barrel with breast cleaner while I clean the threads and breech plug. Then start with a wet patch of Hoppes. First couple patches are solid black but clean very quickly.

 

[Addicting]

I forgot to mention…I pre soak my barrel with breast cleaner while I clean the threads and breech plug. Then start with a wet patch of Hoppes. First couple patches are solid black but clean very quickly.

Love autocorrect!

 

[WVTXn]

Do stainless steel barrels make any difference as far as cleaning and rust prevention? Or does stainless merely delay the inevitable?

 

[BrentD]

How clean does everyone get their gun after the season is over and what is your preferred method.

I spent about 90min this weekend cleaning mine and it's definitely not 100% but I'm also not sure if it matters?

I'm using blackhorn 209, it's a old muzzy that was used for a couple decades with pryodex and lent out to a number of people who knows how well it had been cleaned before I got it.

I've been using the Blackhorn 209 solvent. I start out alternating wet patches and the brush for a bit then do a couple of wet patches, then the brush.

Eventually I get to the point where I run the brush then the first wet patch has a bit of black at the top then is mostly "blue", then the second is totally clean... but as soon as I hit it with the brush the same.

I'm wondering if I'm just dealing with old powder built up in the chamber/threads of the nipple and then mostly just 20+ years of copper in barrel?

End of the day it's a sub 100 yard gun, but I don't want to pit out the barrel

Less than 10 minutes for me. And it's 100% for sure. But I use the real stuff for powder. I use only hydrogen hydroxide for cleaning, which is a bit toxic of course. Some people prefer dihydrogenoxide instead.

 

[Deleted member 28227]

Less than 10 minutes for me. And it's 100% for sure. But I use the real stuff for powder. I use only hydrogen hydroxide for cleaning, which is a bit toxic of course. Some people prefer dihydrogenoxide instead.

How does one procure hydrogen hydroxide? Are you using it in the same way you'd use any other solvent with patches?

 

[Gellar]

I think this is well documented but I use American Pioneer Powder. I have a stainless steal T/C. My first muzzleloader was a blued T/C. I used the same cleaning method, but the blued barrel was not forgiving and it had to be absolutely perfect. And since the subject of how long to leave your muzzleloader comes up often I loaded my muzzleloader on December 23 and I have hunted almost every day in rain or snow several of those days. I try not to expose it to extreme temperature changes. so when it was 0 degrees I left it in my truck, now that it is in the 30s I bring it into the garage after I hunt which is 50 degrees.

My cleaning method is this:
tap water and dish soap in bowl
6 .50 caliber cleaning pads soaked in the bowl with dish soap
breach plug in same bowl
run 6 (or until they come out clean) wet cleaning pads through barrel
look through barrel to see if anything remains
run 3-4 dry cleaning pads through barrel
look through barrel again
place 1 pea size glob of bore butter and spread it around a cleaning pad, run through barrel
use a wet q-tip to clean where the primer goes on the breach plug
use a dry q-tip to dry same spot
use old tooth brush to clean threads in the barrel for breach plug
use wet cleaning pad to clean breach plug, dry afterwards
use old tooth brush to clean threads on breach plug
pea size glob of bore butter on breach plug threads and spread it around the threads with your fingers
screw breach plug back into gun and immediately remove breach plug. Leave it out of the gun while your gun is in the safe.
wipe down outside of gun with light coating rem oil.

 

[BrentD]

How does one procure hydrogen hydroxide? Are you using it in the same way you'd use any other solvent with patches?

You take a y-shaped stick and walk through the timber with it until it suddenly points down and begins to vibrate - dig there.

Yes and no. It will work with just patches, but when you want to be fast and thorough, you plunge the breech (assuming it has a hooked breech barrel) in a bucket of water and simply pump up and down with a patch on a jag. You will prime the pump in no time.

Alternatively, you can use some rubber or tygon tubing over the nipple and into a the bucket. Keep the tube as short as possible, but the same result will occur.

Remove the nipple, patch the barrel til dry, run a pipe cleaner into the nipple and the flash channel in the breech, then regrease the nipple and screw it in. You are now clean and just need a few passes with any sort of barrel oil (I use NAPA ATF) and you can forget about it for a couple of years.

 

[Deleted member 28227]

You take a y-shaped stick and walk through the timber with it until it suddenly points down and begins to vibrate - dig there.

Man I walked right into that one.

 

[Deleted member 28227]

@BrentD D I'm shooting an inline not a traditional is the process significantly different for some reason?

 

[Sytes]

I use only hydrogen hydroxide for cleaning, which is a bit toxic of course. Some people prefer dihydrogenoxide instead.

While I chased the Y wand thingy down a rabbit hole, I came across this old forum discussion for gun solvents.

New cleaning solvent for black powder residue for only a dollar

I received this recommendation from a friend of mine who shot next to me at the NC State Shoot. He got the "rec" from fellow shooters at the National...

www.thehighroad.org

The alleged dangers associated with hydrogen hydroxide superseded the power of sellers (not checked the Dark Web - haha!) unless special license for industrial production (i.e. Styrofoam).

Is the referenced, "Awesome" cleaner a reasonable option?

https://www.amazon.com/Las-Totally-Awesome-FBA_22429640222-Purpose/dp/B007F19O8G/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1WNE58PNM12A7&keywords=awesome+cleaning+product&qid=1673017781&rdc=1&sprefix=Awesome+product+%2Caps%2C84&sr=8-5

 

[Addicting]

Do stainless steel barrels make any difference as far as cleaning and rust prevention? Or does stainless merely delay the inevitable?

Proper cleaning and both will last longer than you would think. Stainless is more forgiving but need the same work.

 

[MThuntr]

@BrentD D I'm shooting an inline not a traditional is the process significantly different for some reason?

The route Brent suggested is the old school route tradition muzzleloader shooters use. It is very effective and I follow the same method for my caplock rifles. I like to use that hottest water possible and will lube while barrel is hot. Watch out though because Hydrogen hydroxide is super dangerous stuff...I choked on some the other day.

Blackhorn 209 is considered non-corrosive and using their solvent should take care of the issue. It shouldn't need to be sparkling clean. I'd take the breechplug out and soak it in solvent and then clean from the breech to muzzle like you would any other rifle. If you're using sabots consider using a solvent that will get plastic...I've used Eds Red Homemade but it will destroy plastic jags so something else will be better.

 

[MT Bound]

I find cleaning my flintlock barrel to be much easier than my inline, even though the breech plug comes out of my inline barrel. With my flintlock I take a bucket of hot, soapy water, remove the barrel, place the breech end in the bucket, and swab patches up and down the barrel from the muzzle end. The swabbing action pulls the water in through the flash hole and effectively flushes the powder residue from the barrel.

I've been cleaning my percussion cap the same way as this for decades. after the hot soapy water and running dry patches thru it I will then coat it with bore butter.

Inlines are easier to clean with the breachplug coming out, sounds like what you're doing is good enough. Just be sure to coat the barrel with bore butter or something similar before putting it up until next season or next time you shoot it.

 

[Kaitum]

I've been cleaning my percussion cap the same way as this for decades. after the hot soapy water and running dry patches thru it I will then coat it with bore butter.

Inlines are easier to clean with the breachplug coming out, sounds like what you're doing is good enough. Just be sure to coat the barrel with bore butter or something similar before putting it up until next season or next time you shoot it.

Bore Butter, I forgot to add that include that step. Good stuff.

 

[FREAK]

I bought a used 50cal out of Washington last year because you couldn't find one for sale in the state of Montana. That was a bad mistake! The corrosion in the barrel caused the ass end to blow out on my 3rd shot down range. Thankfully I was wearing safety glasses and the wood stock took most of the force, but all that to say if I was to get another one I'd definitely take keeping it clean very serious.