I would shoot your old arrows through paper to see what you get. So what’s your arrow and bow setup? If you think you’re close on spine, drop point weight and see what you get. When I first upped my arrow weight I fought poor arrow flight. Chased my tail all summer and just hunted with them. Dropped two spines the next year and they flew like darts.
Heavy arrow tuning struggles
- Thread starter Irrelevant
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LuketheDog
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Irrelevant
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Irrelevant
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If that answer is grip, then I need to stop bow hunting because I can't hold that bow better...
I can’t imagine you’re too far off on spine but I would still drop 50 grains or so in point weight to see what it does
Mighty Mouse
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FWIW qSpine/OT2Go says 300 would be "optimal" at the assumed specs listed below. Like any spine chart/calculator though, it's just giving an estimate, not a hard-and-fast rule for good arrow flight...the proof is always in the pudding.
Bow specs: 335 fps IBO, 70# DW, 28" DL, 31" ATA, 7" BH, 80% LO
Arrow specs: 28" C2C, 125 gr head, 90 gr insert, 9 gr nock, 3 vanes at 7 gr each
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Irrelevant
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Update: I made zero progress last night. It was FUGGIN' hot so I took the canoe out in an attempt to catch one of the record number of sockeye in the Columbia, just about got swept downstream, frantically slapped the water for what felt like forever to get back to the dock, tied off on a nearby willow, tried to drink a beer but spilled it all while trying to keep the hordes of mosquitoes at bay, called it quits, went home, went to bed... I'll try harder tonight.
TrumpkinTheDwarf
Well-known member
Man, just when I think us trad guys have it rough, the compound crowd starts talking about their tuning issues. In trad, the first rule is YOU are the problem. The second rule is YOU are STILL the problem. The third rule is to shoot bareshafts till your head spins, while feverishly raising and lowering your brace height till you melt down and throw the bow at your target. Usually that helps and the bareshafts fly pretty straight the next day.
A very weak arrow could cause those paper tears though. As could a trigger punching, grip choker. Or a loose screw on your arrow rest... an out of spec string... too much face pressure. Actually, I'd probably check that last one first.
A very weak arrow could cause those paper tears though. As could a trigger punching, grip choker. Or a loose screw on your arrow rest... an out of spec string... too much face pressure. Actually, I'd probably check that last one first.
Rifles and compounds are similar. We are the weak link more often than people want to admit. This is in no way directed at neffa, just a general statement
It's probably something about the way you shoot that bow that makes the heavier arrow wonky. You can try and change the way you shoot, but seems like it's worked until now. Buying a new bow seems impractical. Leaves the arrow. Could try and nock tune the arrows you have (apologies if you already have tried that and I missed it). Or you could try a different arrow. Or a different point weight.
But I definitely sympathize. I just want an arrow that doesn't bonk off an ungulate, why does it have to be so complicated?
But I definitely sympathize. I just want an arrow that doesn't bonk off an ungulate, why does it have to be so complicated?
grizzly63
Well-known member
Stop looking at the paper, tune your broadheads to your field points. If you cant do that, bow's out of tune or your spine is way off. Go heavier and lighter, see what happens. Good luck. You'll find that sweet spot.
