Fixed 2 blade broadheads

[Valley1320]

Just curious looking at getting some new broadheads and upping my broadhead weight. I've always shot rage broadheads and have either got Rage commercial shots or I got hardly anything if I don't hit them quite right. Does anyone have experience with cutthroat 2 blade broadheads or something similar and do you haft to tune them? I've had guys tell me you don't haft to..

 

[Ophidion]

You should always have a bow in tune so that the amount of extra work to get your BH's to fly with field points is minimized. The more surface area of the BH, the more tuning you are likely to need.

As far as varying results with a specific broadhead, animals move, targets dont. All the videos people post reviewing broadheads are great for getting an idea of durability, but even a perfect broadhead can be reduced to almost useless based on the shot, what the animal did etc.

 

[Fire_9]

Two blades are pretty much all I’ve used for about 8 or 9 years. Easy to sharpen and I’ve never had an issue getting them to shoot at 60. If I was going to buy a two blad now I’d look at the cutthroats for sure. I bought a dozen Northerns last season and am happy with them for the price. Took a little messing with them to get them to spin true but it wasn’t a bid deal. I’d look real hard at the VPA 2 or 3 blade as well

 

[Valley1320]

Two blades are pretty much all I’ve used for about 8 or 9 years. Easy to sharpen and I’ve never had an issue getting them to shoot at 60. If I was going to buy a two blad now I’d look at the cutthroats for sure. I bought a dozen Northerns last season and am happy with them for the price. Took a little messing with them to get them to spin true but it wasn’t a bid deal. I’d look real hard at the VPA 2 or 3 blade as well

Thanks for that info.

 

[bullbugle307]

No experience with cutthroat, but a buddy of mine used bone broadheads for his moose hunt last year and had good results. He got a total pass through and the moose expired in about 70 yds from the shot. You can watch the archery bison episode from Randy Newberg to see them in action also.

 

[Valley1320]

https://www.podbean.com/ea/pb-acex3-d234c1 That is definitely interesting to listen and cause some thinking

 

[Valley1320]

A video of part of that podcast I just sent a link for. Would love to hear some thoughts on it

 

[PaLuke]

Hello, I shoot Magnus Stingers and they fly great and stay together incredibly well. Very easy to sharpen and come with a reasonable price tag. Good luck in your search.

 

[SummitsCalling]

Iron Will broadheads hands down, you won't ever have to ask that question again.

 

[EYJONAS!]

Iron Will broadheads hands down, you won't ever have to ask that question again.

For 40 bucks a whack I would hope so. That's a 60 dollar arrow everytime........

 

[Stay Sharp]

Ive used the 250 grain cutthroat single bevel heads with great success. You will own the sharpening but I make short work of that.

After dispatching a red stag at 41 yards and traveling another 10 yards and then burred in the dirt.

After dispatching a 2000 lb. Water buffalo. 9 inches of the broken shaft after it passed through the far side shoulder is laying on the ground near its neck

After dispatching a 318 lb. Eurasian boar.

They come very rough from the mfgr. You will need to hone them right out of the package.

After I hone them.

Surgical sharp.

I cant show you my tool/device for taking them to surgical razor's edge as this chat room moderator will not like or allow it.

When I hunt large/dangerous game, this is my head of choice. The metal is great and very hard. My total arrow weight is 700 grains as I construct a dual wall aluminum arrow with 23% FOC.

 

[Stay Sharp]

I should be noted that the cutthroat is overkill for small game like deer and black bear, speed goat, etc. Its meant for heat boned and large game. It would be great for elk (especially a bone hit)

 

[JohnCushman]

I use the old style Muzzy Phantoms with the bleeder blades with my recurve.

 

[EYJONAS!]

Kudu points........ check em out and they ain't 40 bucks a whack......

 

[Stay Sharp]

I use the old style Muzzy Phantoms with the bleeder blades with my recurve.

Great head too (too bad they were discontinued) I killed 7 deer with the same head, just shoot, re-sharpen and kill again.

 

[Valley1320]

Ive used the 250 grain cutthroat single bevel heads with great success. You will own the sharpening but I make short work of that.

After dispatching a red stag at 41 yards and traveling another 10 yards and then burred in the dirt.

After dispatching a 2000 lb. Water buffalo. 9 inches of the broken shaft after it passed through the far side shoulder is laying on the ground near its neck

After dispatching a 318 lb. Eurasian boar.

They come very rough from the mfgr. You will need to hone them right out of the package.

After I hone them.

Surgical sharp.

I cant show you my tool/device for taking them to surgical razor's edge as this chat room moderator will not like or allow it.

When I hunt large/dangerous game, this is my head of choice. The metal is great and very hard. My total arrow weight is 700 grains as I construct a dual wall aluminum arrow with 23% FOC.

That's goes right with everything I've heard about these type of setups. Love that info

 

[Stay Sharp]

The main reason people go to single bevel heads its their ability to spit bone where all other blade profits and configurations get wedged into bone and stop all forward movement.

I started exploring and making my own single bevel Broadheads 13 years ago. I was mostly hunting with all homemade trade gear and slow and low poundage longbows needed all the advantages I could find. I was doing a lot of custom butchering at that time so I had cadre deer to test my heads on. (With permission of the person dropping off the deer)

Here is one such deer and my homemade bow and homemade single bevel heads back in the day.

I made three shots from 10 yards with my 45 pound longbow that shoots an arrow at a blazing 142 FPS. the first two were through the ribs and the final one hit the shoulder blade at the point where the flat and the "T" meet, right near the ball joint. This is (in my opinion) the largest and thickest bone section in the upper shoulder. I admit that hitting this far forward is not a good place to aim on a live animal but things happen beyond our control. I of course hit this spot with pin point precision on purpose. (wink)

The rib shots were complete pass throughs but the shoulder shot ended up with just the fletches sticking out entrance side. I know there were no lungs in the deer but they don't offer much in the way of resistance any way. Also consider that this deer was cold and stiff as rigor mortise had set in so I consider all things equal.

Right off the bat, I noticed the "S" shaped cuts that Dr. Ashby had spoke about. This was the case on both the entrance and exit holes.

I noticed that both of the rib shots had completely missed hitting ribs on both sides. My goal was to break a rib to see the results but I must have used up all my luck..... I mean skill on that shoulder shot.

I then removed the shoulder and boned it out.

Just as described by Dr. Ashby, the "S" shaped cut and the bone had split completely being held at the joint end by only some soft fibers.

As expected, the single bevel head is a real bone breaker/splitter. I know this is a very small deer but again, I was using a rather low power bow. Take from this what you will but I am even more pleased with the single bevel heads. This sort of thing is not necessary with todays super fast and powerful bows hunting whitetails but for those using traditional archery gear, or those going after large or dangerous game, we are looking for every advantage we can get

The year I was doing this testing was 2008. I was contacted by Traditional bowhunting magazine. They asked me to write a companion piece with DR. Ashby regarding single bevel head.s I think that was published in Aug of that year.

If you visit the bone broadhead website (sellers of single bevel broadheads) you will see that same split scapula I posted here. I learned they stole that image from my blog. When they did that, they had yet to produce their first head but they tried to pass of my image as an example of the damage their heads do. I contacted them and told them to either take down my image or properly credit the photo. They keep the image and did as I asked.

 

[SummitsCalling]

For 40 bucks a whack I would hope so. That's a 60 dollar arrow everytime........

The heads can be resharpened easily and have a lifetime warranty (~$33/each). People spend how much to go hunting (A few $k for NR) and wanna buy cheap chinese crap, on the actual piece of gear that kills? To each their own but the broad head is not where you should be looking to save a few $ imho

 

[Stay Sharp]

Message me (PM) and I will link you to a YouTube video I made shooting double Bevels and single bevel broadheads side by side that will help you further understand the benefits of the single bevel and boney mass bone splitting. Then (if you have one) take a kitchen knife that is single bevel and try to make a straight cut through an apple and you will see how the blade rotates and makes a curved slice.

 

[Stay Sharp]

The heads can be resharpened easily and have a lifetime warranty (~$33/each). People spend how much to go hunting (A few $k for NR) and wanna buy cheap chinese crap, on the actual piece of gear that kills? To each their own but the broad head is not where you should be looking to save a few $ imho

Amen. So many go cheap on the only part of their gear responsible for doing the killing.