Evaulting used 300 Magnum rifle before purchase

[Empire State]

Being the off-season, doing some shopping for a new rifle, I decided I want (need?) one, and this is generally a good time to shop.

So, looking at used rifles, how do I evaluate a used rifle sitting on the rack at my local gun shop. What do I look for? Red flags?

 

[T Bone]

I enjoy used rifle shopping more than new rifle shopping. It's fun. I often pick up neglected, forgotten, used and abused rifles, clean them up and get them shooting tight groups.

Step 1. Identify a rifle that interests you. Don't look at the price tag. Price tag means nothing.

Step 2. Pick it up, clear chamber, look it over. Identify damage to the stock, worn finishes, bubbafied custom work, or any aftermarket add-ons (trigger, stock, aftermarket barrel, heinous muzzle brake, etc) Make sure you check for a clear chamber! (I've only found one chamber with a live round in it, but that's one too many).

Step 3. Work action slowly, medium, and then slam it closed, feel/listen for anything that isn't correct (slam fire, scope base screw contact with the bolt, etc). Test safety in all positions. Dry fire several times (ask first).

Step 4. Remove bolt. Check bolt face for fire cutting/pitting.

Step 5. Get a bore light and inspect bore. Many are dirty. If dirty, ask if they have a cleaning rod and a few patches. Look closely at the first inch of barrel above the chamber (if it's anything but mirror bright, there is barrel wear). Hold the rifle up and reflect light off the exterior of barrel and ensure there are no swells or irregularities.

Step 6. If all the above are green lights, start compiling a list of things that don't work for you, that would subtract from value. (LOP, stock refinishing, trigger work, missing parts, bubbificaiton, etc.)

Step 7. Ask nicely if you can remove action from stock. Twice I've had actions that wouldn't come out of the stock (I bought both, at half the marked price, and was able to remove them after cold freezing them). When the action is out of the stock, check for stock cracks, rust, more bubbified work and odd shims.

Step 7. If it's a rifle that you want, Cash talks. Have a self imposed limit. Start negotiations at a price waaaay below what you are willing to pay. Be willing to walk away.

Step 8. Take it home, clean it, fix it, bed it, get the trigger the way you want it, mount up some Talleys and put some proven glass on it, and start load development.

 

[std7mag]

I start with type of firearm.
I'm not interested in some actions, or manufacturers.
Overall condition as it's sitting on the rack.
As T Bone said, clear the firearm in a safe direction. One gunshop years ago used to put dummy rounds in to see if customer would clear it.
Does everything function as it should?
Bubbafied stocks, shims, was it cleaned since manufacture.
Most gunshops (at least around here) have a date on the tag that tells how long it's been on the rack. I have finangled some good discounts for guns that have been there a while.
Know your budget, and be willing to walk away.

 

[Empire State]

"bubbafied", good word.

This is helpful. Removing the action, I was wondering about that. In all my years never have seen someone do that but I agree with you. Hard to get past the price they may have posted on the tag sometimes.

 

[mtmuley]

If it's one of the upper end big cased magnums, I'd have it bore scoped. mtmuley

 

[Seamaster]

You do not see many 300 magnum rifles with shot-out barrels, but you do see them with damaged crowns.

 

[mtmuley]

You do not see many 300 magnum rifles with shot-out barrels, but you do see them with damaged crowns.

Depends on the magnum. I would never buy a used RUM or Norma for example without a bore scoping. mtmuley

 

[Empire State]

Interesting, I googled borescope and am amazed. Naively I didn't know it existed. I suppose this is something most gunsmiths need to have these days.