Digiscoping quesiton

[bjtc_brian]

Okay, I got some pictures of an elk through my spotting scope, and I have a couple of questions. I'll go through my quick set up first. I have a Redfield 20-60x89 spotting scope. A cabelas digiscoping adapter. And a Panasonic Luminix point and shoot.

I am zoomed to 50 or so, and when I try to take the picture, it shakes like crazy. My question is, would it be better to zoom out a bit and use the optical zoom on the camera? Or, is there an easier way to get the picture taken? Or am I just too far away and expecting too much? Also, the pictures don't appear to be as "close" as when I look through the scope.

Most look like this.


Once in a while I could get a good one.


Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Oak]

The best thing you can do is to somehow attach the camera to the eyepiece of the scope and use a timer to take the photo. It is very difficult to keep from getting blur if your scope is turned up in magnification at all.

For best results, you should not use the zoom on the camera beyond maybe 5x or so, and never use the digital zoom. Use the camera zoom just enough to get rid of the vignetting, and us the zoom on the scope beyond that.

 

[jryoung]

^^^^^ This, optical zoom only and more importantly use the timer for the shutter.

 

[dustinf]

Or get one of these...

 

[bjtc_brian]

Thanks guys, that makes total sense. Does zooming in the camera(optical not digital) make a difference?

 

[EliAGrimmett]

Zoom the camera all the way out (if using 5X camera or less) and usually don't zoom in on the scope at all. You'll get the best results that way. Once you start to use the scopes zoom it becomes more difficult to pick up enough light for the camera to focus and for the image stabilization to minimize the shake.

Instead of the using the timer, you should consider setting your camera to burst or continuous mode. This is what I do for my pics. The timer takes too long most of the time and the wind will still cause it to move once the shutter is released. If you use the burst mode you can just press and hold the shutter button and the camera will take photos until you release the button (at least this is how my canon works). You'll get a lot of out of focus shots but you'll also get a lot of sharp photos, so you'll have to sort through a lot of pictures and you'll need a bigger memory card, but I've had a lot more success doing it this way then using the timer personally.

Here are some of the shots I've gotten using the TinesUp camera set up with my Swaro 20-60x65 HD.

 

[idnative1948]

Thanks for the info here. I have been wondering the same thing. Now to get back out and try it again!

 

[idahofishnhunt]

Without starting a new thread on it...what brands of digiscoping gear have you found to be most effective, I was taking a look at this also. A little heads up of things to look at from the beginning would be beneficial without dropping too much cash in experimenting.

I'm using the Olympus Tough TG-2 if anyone is already using a setup for this camera. Thanks.

 

[bjtc_brian]

I like the adapter I got from cabelas. It is very adjustable. One thing I do to get a good image through the camera is to take the rubber eye guard off.

 

[bjtc_brian]

Thanks a bunch for the info Eli, I wished I was close enough to get good pics from my scope a low power, plus I am not using the best scope for the process. I am trying to disturb the elk as little as possible at this point as it is so close to season starting, so I am staying a ways away. Maybe too far! ha ha!

 

[BirdDogWebb]

If your camera has the option to shoot in manual mode or shutter priority mode, you want to shoot with the fastest shutter speed and larger aperture, it will change depending on your ambient light. (Aperture is the F-numbers, smaller numbers =more light into the camera=faster shutter speed > larger F-number =less light into the camera = slower shutter speed)
Always shoot with fast shutter speed and large aperture(small f-number).
Your camera may only shoot in auto, if so ignore all the above.

The a sturdy tripod and ball head will make some difference. Gitzo makes quality tripods and Really Right Stuff makes quality ball heads.

Distance will have an effect. The closer the better. The further the subject the more atmospheric ''trash'' will be magnified, - heat waves, dust, ect.

General rule of thumb in photography (not digiscoping) if your lens is 500mm, shoot with shutter speed of 1/500 second, 300mm=1/300 second.
With a 35mm camera shooting a 50x lens, it would be equivalent to a 2500mm lens. That means you should shoot with a shutter speed of 1/2500 second. Nearly impossible due to light problems. With me shooting a 500mm lens, it would be close to a 10x scope, I push for 1/500 second and struggle with light. That should give you an idea.

If you have a decent tripod and head, you might place a small (lightweight) sand bag on top of your scope- directly above the mount, to help with vibration.
You may also use light rubber bands connecting to the end of the scope and stretch down to top of tripod or base of head, to dampen vibration. Try this only if you have a decent tripod and head!

Shutter release(if one is available) will help-hands off the camera less shake.

 

[bjtc_brian]

Thanks a LOT BirdDog! This kind of info what I love from this place.

I was actually going to ask about tripods. I have a vanguard, and probably not the nicest, I actually had thought about getting the Sinopod(?) that Schmalts sells. The other thing I was wondering, is if any tripods have some attachments to move where the tripod actually attaches to the spotting scope. When I put my camera on, the balance is off, and I have to lock the scope way low, then when I let up, the front will rise to what I am trying to look at. Any thoughts?

 

[BirdDogWebb]

Just remember your scope camera setup or camera/lens set up is only as good as its foundation. There are a number of tripods on the market. You can find lots of info with reviews at B&Hphoto.
Keep in mind, if you are planning upgrading tripod or head, some ball heads will come with quick release base and plate.

This will help with your balance. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/484799-REG/Kowa_TSN_BP_Digiscoping_Balance_Plate.html although it is delayed shipping.
You may also consider something similar to
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...459_120_PU_120_Extra_Long_Slide_In_Quick.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/555490-REG/Kirk_QRC_1_75_QRC_1_75_Quick_Release_Clamp.html

"The Kowa Balance Plate allows you to move your digiscoping set-up forward and thereby balancing the fore-and-aft weight distribution of your scope/eyepiece/camera adapter/camera assembly. This accessory gives you the ability to configure a harmonious counterbalanced system for smoother panning, accurate spotting, and comfortable long-term viewing."