Crimped 7mm Rem Mag Primer?

[huntid73]

So I am new to this reloading game, but I saw that certain primers (especially .223, .45ACP, 9mm,) are crimped and need extra preparation either through a swager, or a through the use of a total brass prep setup. The top photo shows how most of my 7mm Rem Mag brass has a standard rolled edge, but I noticed that some of my brass looks like the bottom photo. I am thinking this was a crimped primer, but want to make sure before I move forward and can get the equipment needed to prep these properly. Thanks.

 

[Laelkhunter]

Does not appear to be crimped to me. Mostly it is military ammo that has crimped primers. My H&K 91 and 93 Rifles both crimp the primer in when the cartridge is being fired (along with striations longitudinally on the cases to assist extraction). Again, no I don't think it is crimped.

 

[44hunter45]

Does not appear to be crimped to me. Mostly it is military ammo that has crimped primers. My H&K 91 and 93 Rifles both crimp the primer in when the cartridge is being fired (along with striations longitudinally on the cases to assist extraction). Again, no I don't think it is crimped.

Hmm. Can you shoot an uncrimped commercial 308 Win or 223 Rem round in your H&Ks and report back if it comes out crimped?
I've fired a fair number of H&K rifles. I'm familiar with the fluted extracted cases, but I've never heard that the rifle is crimping the primer.
I assume those primers were crimped before they were fired.

To the OP:

I don't use Hornady brass, but that looks more like more like a quirk of their process rather than a crimped primer.

I have seen 300 Win Mag crimped primers, but never 7mm Rem Mag. There is 300 Win Mag being used by military snipers and MIL-SPEC requires the crimp.
You can find just about anything in range pickup brass. "Civilian" 223 brass on commercial head stamps with crimps, etc. Ammo companies will make ammo runs based on the terms of supplier contracts, so anything is possible.

I would first see if you can easily re-prime it before making an investment in more gear. If you are nervous about trying to get a new primer in a tight pocket, pick a spent primer from a known un-crimped round and see if it goes in easily first, then run the case through the process again and see if it takes a live one.

If you invest in a universal de-priming die, you will not regret it. I use the RCBS one. It has a spring driving the de-capping pin which gives a little extra push to kick the primers out with some force. This is designed primarily for progressive press users, but I use it on all crimped primers in a separate step from my sizing die. Sometime a primer does not want to pop free, making you think the stem on your sizing die is adjusted wrong. Then you lower the stem and bend it on the next round. Not cool.
The universal de-capping die prevents this and pays for itself in saved downtime getting bent de-capping rods replaced. The die is also very handy when you "oops" and get a primer upside down or mashed in there sideways. The die doesn't touch the outside of the case so you don't have to re-lube and possibly re-trim as you would running it through your sizing die.

Most of us started out just reaming out primer swages with a de-burring tool. The motorized case prep all-in-one machines also ream the crimp out. It is not a big deal, but it removes brass and I avoid it. You can find an RCBS press mounted pocket swager pretty cheap used. That's what I use now. I am budgeting for the $100 to get the bench mounted unit.

The RCBS youtube channel has good videos on dealing with crimped primers.

Handloading can become a real passion, be safe and have fun with it!

 

[huntid73]

Hmm. Can you shoot an uncrimped commercial 308 Win or 223 Rem round in your H&Ks and report back if it comes out crimped?
I've fired a fair number of H&K rifles. I'm familiar with the fluted extracted cases, but I've never heard that the rifle is crimping the primer.
I assume those primers were crimped before they were fired.

To the OP:

I don't use Hornady brass, but that looks more like more like a quirk of their process rather than a crimped primer.

I have seen 300 Win Mag crimped primers, but never 7mm Rem Mag. There is 300 Win Mag being used by military snipers and MIL-SPEC requires the crimp.
You can find just about anything in range pickup brass. "Civilian" 223 brass on commercial head stamps with crimps, etc. Ammo companies will make ammo runs based on the terms of supplier contracts, so anything is possible.

I would first see if you can easily re-prime it before making an investment in more gear. If you are nervous about trying to get a new primer in a tight pocket, pick a spent primer from a known un-crimped round and see if it goes in easily first, then run the case through the process again and see if it takes a live one.

If you invest in a universal de-priming die, you will not regret it. I use the RCBS one. It has a spring driving the de-capping pin which gives a little extra push to kick the primers out with some force. This is designed primarily for progressive press users, but I use it on all crimped primers in a separate step from my sizing die. Sometime a primer does not want to pop free, making you think the stem on your sizing die is adjusted wrong. Then you lower the stem and bend it on the next round. Not cool.
The universal de-capping die prevents this and pays for itself in saved downtime getting bent de-capping rods replaced. The die is also very handy when you "oops" and get a primer upside down or mashed in there sideways. The die doesn't touch the outside of the case so you don't have to re-lube and possibly re-trim as you would running it through your sizing die.

Most of us started out just reaming out primer swages with a de-burring tool. The motorized case prep all-in-one machines also ream the crimp out. It is not a big deal, but it removes brass and I avoid it. You can find an RCBS press mounted pocket swager pretty cheap used. That's what I use now. I am budgeting for the $100 to get the bench mounted unit.

The RCBS youtube channel has good videos on dealing with crimped primers.

Handloading can become a real passion, be safe and have fun with it!

I did get a decapping die, because I am planning on cleaning brass after depriming, and I am certainly glad I did. I think I may just be looking at a beveled primer pocket, but wanted to make sure, since I am hoping to reload my 7mm first! I may get a brass prep station later when I dive into my .223, but again am hoping that the purchase of that piece of gear can be pushed down the road a bit!

 

[MThuntr]

Hornady brass...a quirk of their process

this...here is a piece of Hornady 280ai brass

 

[Laelkhunter]

Yes, the brass (.308 and .223) have a crimp AFTER they are fired in the H&K. These were designed as battle rifles (known as the G3) for the West German Army, therefore they are designed for extreme reliability. The Base (primer) is swaged almost flat from a raised portion of the face of the bolt, sealing the primer in, and there are striations (flutes) on the brass that assist in the extraction of the case. On the way out of the ejection port, the spent brass hits the edge of the port, which bends them in half (slight exaggeration), and kicks them about 30 feet (10 meters). They are not reloadable (without a lot of work), so they are not salvaged.

 

[Laelkhunter]

Hmm. Can you shoot an uncrimped commercial 308 Win or 223 Rem round in your H&Ks and report back if it comes out crimped?
I've fired a fair number of H&K rifles. I'm familiar with the fluted extracted cases, but I've never heard that the rifle is crimping the primer.
I assume those primers were crimped before they were fired.

I don't know of any commercial rifle rounds that are crimped before firing (see my reply above). It does more than crimp the primer, it really smashes the base. If I had some fired cases, I would try to email you a pic (I have no idea how to post photos here).
The MP5 (9mm) does not have the crimp feature in the face of the bolt, but look at the face of the bolt on the .308 and .223 (models 91 and 93), you will see what I mean.

 

[Brian in Montana]

I've relaoded Hornady brass (not much, but some) and did have to ream out the primer pocket a little because of that odd crimp feature. I like a lot of Hornady products, but their brass seems a little funny.

 

[44hunter45]

I did get a decapping die, because I am planning on cleaning brass after depriming, and I am certainly glad I did. I think I may just be looking at a beveled primer pocket, but wanted to make sure, since I am hoping to reload my 7mm first! I may get a brass prep station later when I dive into my .223, but again am hoping that the purchase of that piece of gear can be pushed down the road a bit!

That works!

The primers will go in or they won't.

Don't forget to check the length of your re-sized brass. Your manual will have a trim length, but SAAMI spec minus .005" is usually a good number. Some rifles are finicky about this.

 

[buffybr]

I reload 11 rifle cartridges and 7 pistol cartridges. Over the years I've bought new brass for my .257, .300 Wby, and .375 RUM. Just about 100% of the brass for all of my other cartridges (including 7mm RM) are range pick-ups. Many years ago a primer swage die for both large and small primer pockets.

A few years ago I starting shooting .223 and after many years, .308Win again. All of my brass for these two cartridges is range pick-up, and much of it is military, along with Hornady .308.

The fastest and easiest method that I've found to remove the primer pocket crimps was to buy a steel countersink drill bit at a local hardware store, chuck it in my drill press (or hand drill) and simply hold the crimped cases against the bit for about a second each, and no more crimp. Quick, easy, and inexpensive. No big deal.