choosing a powder

[tnctcb]

im still pretty new in reloading and maybe have more questions than some but im trying to get all the information to get the best loads in the least expensive method.
the first load i worked up was for my 270 using h414 powder.one of the loads shoots under an inch groups so i stuck with it.i was looking at some other loads and found that i can use this powder for my 243,7mm-08,308,35 whelen and 300 mag. all of these rifles are just hunting rifles so inside 2 inches is really acceptable to me with the possible exception of the 243 for varmints i might want more accuracy.why would i use another powder if i can get reasonable groups with h414.i understand it is one of the best for 30-06 but are there calibers that can be loaded with it and not really be suited for it.i dont understand fast and slow burning powders and why you would use each one.i also noticed that different powders may have a big difference from starting grains to maximum and others have a small difference in the same caliber.do large or small differences have an effect on load compatibility.it seems silly to buy 5 powders when 1 will do but i want to get all i can out of each caliber

 

[brokfut]

In most of my reloading manuals the "most accurate" load data for the test rifles is listed. The load identified may not be the fastest load but IMHO velocity differences of 200 fps don't make a bit of difference unless I'm stretching the shots out beyond 400 yrd. That being said, I have found that by using the powder listed as the most accurate and then developing loads for my rifle with that powder I can get good results. I have two factory Ruger 77 Mk II's that will shoot sub 3/8 MOA at 100 meters. This theroy does not hold true for all my rifles but as a general rule it will sure beat trying to get exception loads from sub performing powders.
I like to take the best powder for the caliber/bullet combination, load 4 rounds with a given powder charge and then increase the charge wt up in 1/2 grain increments until I'm just under a max charge for my rifle. The first round out of the barrel for each load is a fouling round. The next three are for accuracy. Swab the barrel and fire the next set. When I have established which is the most accurate, I then start adjusting the seating depth. Some times just 3-5 10/1000's will make a big difference.
I'm rambling. Sorry. I'm sure there are lots of folks on this board a lot smarter then me about reloading but this is what works for me.

 

[tnctcb]

ill take the rambling im so new at reloading ill take all the help i can get

 

[T Bone]

I take the practical approach to reloading too Tim. I use IMR4350 for loading my .270, 30-06 and 300 win. For the 270 and '06 its the most accurate powder I've found. Sub or MOA on both rifles.

My 300 likes H4831 a little better but the difference is 1/4 inch at 100 yards. The best I could get out of it is 1 3/8 inch groups at 100 after some smithing. For hunting I'm ok with that.

I plan on trying IMR 4350 on my 223 wssm when I get there.

 

[Calif. Hunter]

It all depends on what you want to achieve. If you want accuracy, review several manuals and try the powder or two that they show as most accurate. Load a few at each level from beginning to max and try them for the most accurate one. Also, you generally want a full case of powder for best uniformity. Most manuals will show load density. You want 95% or more in most cases.

If you want velocity, then go for the top couple of powders as shown by a your review of a few manuals. Then load a few (5 or 6 rounds) at 5 or 10 percent below max, go up a grain or half a grain for groups of 5 or 6 until you get to the max. See which load shoots the best at what level, combining accuracy and velocity. Then you can load at varying small variations of that load if you want to really fine tune it.

I usually try to combine accuracy with velocity, which makes me miserable most of the time.

 

[danr55]

How about some basic theory about powder selection.....

1. Choose a powder appropriate to the cartridge at hand. Slower powders are for cases that are near or over bore capacity. (Bore capacity being defined as the volume of area which can efficiently burn the volume of powder available.) Most of the magnum cases are way over bore capacity. They are easy to recognize at the range because of the 4 foot flame out of the muzzle every time they are fired. Bore capacity changes as caliber of the bullet changes. That is to say a 25 caliber barrel that is 24 inches long has a smaller bore capacity than a 35 caliber barrel of the same length. So a powder that works well in a 25-06 may not give optimum performance in a 35 Whelen with comparable barrel lengths. Some other examples of close comparisons are the series of cases based on the 308 winchester. The 243, 260 Remington, 308 and 35 Remington are all based on the same case, but I would use different powders for each one because they have different capacities..

Now that you've pretty well got that figure out, I'll throw you a curve.. bullet type and weight, ambient pressure and temperature can all have an effect on the powder you choose. If I am going to hunt with a 264 Winchester Mag in temperate areas, I'll load IMR 7828. If it's going to be really cold, I'll switch to H870. Different powders react to temperature differently..

I guess what I am trying to say is that this is or can be a very complex hobby. Your best bet is to pick up ever loading manual you can find at gun shows and read the preface and the technical section in the front of the book. You will learn more from one book than you'll pick up here in a couple of years... but you may pick up a trick or two around here that you won't find in any of those books....

 

[1_pointer]

Also, depending on where you hunt you may want to pick a powder that is temperature stable. Ramshot powders, R15, and the Extreme powders from Hodgdon are pretty temp stable. There's a good article in the most recent Handloader on picking powders. Much follows what was stated here.

 

[Quigley_Sharps]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by danr55:
How about some basic theory about powder selection.....

1. Choose a powder appropriate to the cartridge at hand. Slower powders are for cases that are near or over bore capacity. (Bore capacity being defined as the volume of area which can efficiently burn the volume of powder available.) Most of the magnum cases are way over bore capacity. They are easy to recognize at the range because of the 4 foot flame out of the muzzle every time they are fired. Bore capacity changes as caliber of the bullet changes. That is to say a 25 caliber barrel that is 24 inches long has a smaller bore capacity than a 35 caliber barrel of the same length. So a powder that works well in a 25-06 may not give optimum performance in a 35 Whelen with comparable barrel lengths. Some other examples of close comparisons are the series of cases based on the 308 winchester. The 243, 260 Remington, 308 and 35 Remington are all based on the same case, but I would use different powders for each one because they have different capacities..

Now that you've pretty well got that figure out, I'll throw you a curve.. bullet type and weight, ambient pressure and temperature can all have an effect on the powder you choose. If I am going to hunt with a 264 Winchester Mag in temperate areas, I'll load IMR 7828. If it's going to be really cold, I'll switch to H870. Different powders react to temperature differently..

I guess what I am trying to say is that this is or can be a very complex hobby. Your best bet is to pick up ever loading manual you can find at gun shows and read the preface and the technical section in the front of the book. You will learn more from one book than you'll pick up here in a couple of years... but you may pick up a trick or two around here that you won't find in any of those books....

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Some very good info there well said danr55.
I try to find the powder that fills the case the most , like said above. The reason is: it lends it self to more consistent pressures which = a more accurate load. there are tons of things to tweek a load to get more out of it.
What has been posted above is good starts.
I also look to buy Old Reloading manuals before the lawyers changed reloading for ever. good luck on the reloading

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ 10-29-2003 14:27: Message edited by: Quigley_Sharps ]</font>