I’ve never shot an antelope; will in the future. I’m pretty good at caping and storing until I can get to a taxi, but I’m a little nervous about the hair on an antelope. What do you guys do to ensure you don’t “break” hair or cause other damage to the hide?
Caping Antelope for Mount
- Thread starter Dooger
- Start date
Nick87
Well-known member
Randy has a video that shows how to cape an antelope its on his YouTube channel.
NEWHunter
Well-known member
I was careful not to drag my antelope as many folks have suggested and quartered and caped him where he fell. I was solo, so I took my time and was careful. Did not appear that I had a noticeable amount of breakage or hair pulling out. I put the meat on a space blanket as I broke him down, which kept the meat clean. Next time I’ll probably put the carcass on my space blanket to help keep the cape cleaner and drop the quarters straight into the game bags
My taxidermist gave me a bottle of what he calls “stop rot”. He gets it out of one of the taxidermy supply catalogs. I sprayed the inside of the cape, around the eyes and mouth, and anywhere there was blood in the hair somewhat liberally as he instructed. I also used a humongous cooler that was big enough to lay out the cape without rolling it up. I got the cape to him less than 2 days after pulling the trigger. The taxidermist was happy with the raw material I provided. Can’t wait to get the finished goods back in about 10 months. Oh, and this fall was my first time, so I know there are more experienced folks that might have more efficient methods. The above worked for me. Good luck
My taxidermist gave me a bottle of what he calls “stop rot”. He gets it out of one of the taxidermy supply catalogs. I sprayed the inside of the cape, around the eyes and mouth, and anywhere there was blood in the hair somewhat liberally as he instructed. I also used a humongous cooler that was big enough to lay out the cape without rolling it up. I got the cape to him less than 2 days after pulling the trigger. The taxidermist was happy with the raw material I provided. Can’t wait to get the finished goods back in about 10 months. Oh, and this fall was my first time, so I know there are more experienced folks that might have more efficient methods. The above worked for me. Good luck
Rackmastr
Well-known member
Not dragging an antelope is a very important step obviously. Equally as important is not 'grabbing' hair while you do it and being as gentle as you can when handling. I don't find that the face has issues, but in the neck and shoulder area you can have hair loss easily if you over handle.
Stop rot is a good product for sure and I've used it plenty on capes that have been mishandled by clients. For the most part if you get a pronghorn cape off in the field quickly and don't drive around with a buck in the truck all day, you'll be fine. I prefer to do mine right where they die and then make sure it can get some cool air on it. For transport back to a truck I like a soft game bag or cotton pillow case type bag. Folding it in half (skin to skin) and then laying in the freezer flat or in half is good to ensure heat doesn't stay inside. If you end up turning/fleshing yourself then getting it in salt quickly after and not 'over handling' while fleshing is important. Likely the one spot that most inexperienced people miss is fleshing the glands behind the jaw. If not fleshed properly, these can slip very easily at the tannery.
Stop rot is a good product for sure and I've used it plenty on capes that have been mishandled by clients. For the most part if you get a pronghorn cape off in the field quickly and don't drive around with a buck in the truck all day, you'll be fine. I prefer to do mine right where they die and then make sure it can get some cool air on it. For transport back to a truck I like a soft game bag or cotton pillow case type bag. Folding it in half (skin to skin) and then laying in the freezer flat or in half is good to ensure heat doesn't stay inside. If you end up turning/fleshing yourself then getting it in salt quickly after and not 'over handling' while fleshing is important. Likely the one spot that most inexperienced people miss is fleshing the glands behind the jaw. If not fleshed properly, these can slip very easily at the tannery.
